Preparing for the 100K
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1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
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Preparing for the 100K
I have a 1996 Fuel Injected Electra Classic with close to 90,000 miles. I'm quite happy with it and want to do the necessary maintenance to keep it going as long as possible rather than shop for a new scoot. I'm looking for advice from high milers to replace things before they stick me on the side of the road.
It runs good with no real issues that I can tell.
It is primarily stock as far as I know.
I plan on replacing the drive belt over the winter.
But at 100k, should I also replace:
Primary chain?
Tensioner slide?
Cam sensor?
Throttle Position Sensor?
Injectors?
Relays?
Speedo cable?
Shift Linkage Ball Joints?
Clutch Cable?
I will be looking for things that are worn, but I want to know if there are certain things that are common to fail after 100k. It's a lot easier to repair in the garage when there is snow on the ground than on the side of the road on a sunny day.
Thanks!
It runs good with no real issues that I can tell.
It is primarily stock as far as I know.
I plan on replacing the drive belt over the winter.
But at 100k, should I also replace:
Primary chain?
Tensioner slide?
Cam sensor?
Throttle Position Sensor?
Injectors?
Relays?
Speedo cable?
Shift Linkage Ball Joints?
Clutch Cable?
I will be looking for things that are worn, but I want to know if there are certain things that are common to fail after 100k. It's a lot easier to repair in the garage when there is snow on the ground than on the side of the road on a sunny day.
Thanks!
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 771
Likes: 3
From: St. Bonifacius, MN
At 102,000 miles I replaced my wheel, triple tree, and swing arm bearings. Not sure about the speedo cable since I don't have one. If you have not gone through the forks now would be a good time. How old are the rear shocks? If they are the ones that came on the bike I would upgrade as they would be worn out by now. Unless the primary chain is stretched beyond adjustability, or has a number of tight spots it should be still good. Injectors do get weak so I change mine every 4 years and the fuel filter every two. The relays and sensors I changed when I rebuilt my motor at 120,000, but only because I could not see reusing the old ones with a new motor.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
I have a 1996 Fuel Injected Electra Classic with close to 90,000 miles.
I plan on replacing the drive belt over the winter.
But at 100k, should I also replace:
Primary chain?
Tensioner slide?
Cam sensor?
Throttle Position Sensor?
Injectors?
Relays?
Speedo cable?
Shift Linkage Ball Joints?
Clutch Cable?
I plan on replacing the drive belt over the winter.
But at 100k, should I also replace:
Primary chain?
Tensioner slide?
Cam sensor?
Throttle Position Sensor?
Injectors?
Relays?
Speedo cable?
Shift Linkage Ball Joints?
Clutch Cable?
1. The belt may not need replacement unless it has been damaged by rocks, etc. Even then this type of damage can be repaired with epoxy if the puncture isn't too far toward the edge. The belt on that bike is still the original now at 120k.
2. Clutch disks and spring plate. If you haven't removed (not replaced) the spring plate in the clutch pack, do it now as the rivets will eventually fail. Mine did at 65k and instead of replacing the spring plate added three disks to a new disk set.
3. Replace the engine-primary (crankshaft) seal. Mine started leaking at 88k releasing crankcase pressures that caused tranny fluid to barf through the vent at speeds above 60mph. Pressure transfers from the crankcase to the primary and since the primary is vented through the tranny the pressure exits through the tranny vent tube. Too much pressure blows tranny fluid all over everything if it gets bad enough. While you have that apart replace the stator and primary chain. They are not expensive items.
4. Shift linkage. If you have the stock ball-and-socket linkage, get rid of it now and replace with heim joints. It will break sooner rather than later, especially if it is the original. My original broke at around 100k on a remote backroad and wire-ties got me home. I think this would be considered above-average on this weak-link that the bean-counters at HD never want to improve.
That's about it for my '96. It was a very reliable bike in the nine years I owned it, and the new owner has only had a fork seal leak in the three years he's owned it. The engine has never had the heads removed, even for base gaskets, and compression was 160/160 the last time I checked it in 2006. Speaking of base gaskets, if you remove the jugs for any reason install the Hayden Oil Fix, which reportedly fixes the Evo base-gasket weakness.
Last edited by iclick; Sep 12, 2009 at 07:47 PM.
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