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Another wobble. Today some friends and I were coming home from a trip along the desert in Utah. We had some winds today around us maybe a head wind. We were all pushing the bikes, so I decided to see what this 05 screeming eagle would produce. I have had some wobbles before around some turns at about 80 - 85 mph not to bad because I had the true-track installed and I would either power up or slow it down. Today was a straight shot I pushed it to 120 mph and then came the wobble like I've never felt. The backend started to wobble so bad like fishtailing almost, so I back off on the throttle as quickly as i could but i here to tell you it lasted way to long. That was to close. Sh*t now I'm nervious about this. What would we start checking out to eliminate this close incounter again besides not doing 120 mph? I have new Elite III front and back. 160 on the back. Could the true track not being doing its job. thanks for any suggestions.
OK bro let me start by stating the obvious... You are NUTS. 120mph on a bike really isn't that fast but on a full dress Harley your asking it to do a lot. I would check your tires. Not sure what they are rated at but I wouldn't want to push a touring tire past 100mph. I don't think those true track is designed to accomplish land speed records. Aerodynamics might being playing a huge part in the problem too. I have taken my 09 rg to the limit and it wasn't a walk in the park.
It could be as simple as the load you had on. If you had the bags loaded down your front end will be light and at 120 it wants to lift anyway. Try working your way up to it without a load a little at a time and see if you get the same wobble.
Bullchit! Go as fast as you want when possible. Your scoot should run out of power before you run out of scoot.
Friend, you need to get the bike aligned. HD has proven to be lazy when assembling our pre '09 bikes where they failed to align the engines properly to the frame and swingarms, and then provide a means to lock them there.
The proper specs and tools are available and some indys/dealers have aquired those tools and the training necessary where they can properly align the engine to the frame/swingarm on pre '09 FL's. Be demanding and either find such a dealer/indy or buy the tools and do it yourself like I did.
ONCE the alignment is done, then, and only then add a Bagger Brace or other aftermarket third link to KEEP it locked into alignment. All of them(third links) do the same so shop with that in mind.
I was very lucky in that my '07 FL was very closely aligned at the factory and only suffered from the missing third link and that my Bagger Brace locked it into that perfect alignment. I ride like a mad man where I hit 120 often and change lanes constantly at that speed. I have many years experience on super bikes and hours at 160 MPH on two and four lane roads and know instinctively when a scoot needs improvement and where.
The basic FL's with their designed rake/trail and geometrics are beyond question. A properly aligned rubber mounted FL is a distinct pleasure to drive at 0 speed all the way up to 120 MPH. They only suffer from simple assembly quality control and a missing 3rd link that locks their rubber mounted drivetrains into alignment.
Get your scooter aligned, then add a third link to keep it there and then ride your scoot as fast as your engine allows all day.
You can scoot at 120 gracefully and confidently all day with your feet extended on the highway pegs and your hair in the wind. I do it often.
Last edited by oinker02; Oct 19, 2009 at 02:51 AM.
Friend, you need to get the bike aligned. HD has proven to be lazy when assembling our pre '09 bikes where they failed to align the engines properly to the frame and swingarms, and then provide a means to lock them there.
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+1. Scoots with good frames and proper alignment don't wobble during straight-line WFO - period. Now the old H1 Kawi could wobble in a parking lot but that's another story so...
FWIW - 212.548 MPH at Bonneville a long time ago (unfortunately, only one-way so no record and not on an HD)
Seems like I read somewhere once that shimmy can be caused by weight balance to wind drag ratio. I don't know the exact specifics but it had to do with weight shifted forward of bike balance tied to high wind load can cause it to shimmy, by shifting the weight back to center of balance or slightly behind it would reduce the shimmy. Know that is not the scientific explanation but something along those lines.
Seems like I read somewhere once that shimmy can be caused by weight balance to wind drag ratio. I don't know the exact specifics but it had to do with weight shifted forward of bike balance tied to high wind load can cause it to shimmy, by shifting the weight back to center of balance or slightly behind it would reduce the shimmy. Know that is not the scientific explanation but something along those lines.
I haven't heard of that one Rick but it does seem to make damn good sense.
I do know of guy that sat straight up at too high a speed (right after he went through the lights racing a very highly modified street bike) and he just managed to hang on even though he got into a modest wobble - not a tank-slapper at all.
He figured that he initially jerked on one grip a bit harder than the other causing the slight wobble himself and agreed with me that the pucker factor helped him stay seated too.
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