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I'm riding a Street Bob and this weekend I rode several demo bikes that have the heel toe shifter. I found that I had to pick up my leg and move it back in order to put my heel on the shifter, also i found that my feet were extended further forewords than I am used to, which made up shifting with my toe "unFun"
Back in the 60s, I would go rent bikes in Corpus and they also had the HT shifters; however all that I did was pivot on the ball of my foot and I could easily use my heel on the shifter.
My question is; is the "normal" method really having to raise my leg up to be able to shift, or would there be some sort of adjustments made to be able to simply pivot my foot to reach that heel shift lets say on a Heritage and wearing EMT boots?
Thanks for any advice.
I have an '09 SG and I adjusted the heel shifter downward as low as I could get it to still shift downward. It isn't up as high now and it was a much more comfortable movement. You just have to loosen the shifter on the splines and move it to the position you like.
On my '09 SG, my h/t shifter stud seems to be worn. The heel shifter moves back and forth a little. I took it off and the splines are worn. Has anyone changed that particular stud out? It seems like it might be a big undertaking. I love the heel shifter.
Shouldn't rattle or even be loose on the shaft. I took mine off and threw it in the bag for a spare. Moved the toe shifter to the end of the shaft and made a spacer out of the rubber piece off the heel shifter. I've always been a toe shifter guy and couldn't get into the heel thing. You definetely sound like you need to tighten it up.
Me too. The stock configuration makes the whole assembly wobble making all the parts come loose. I also changed the stock bolt on the tranny linkage on the other end with a grade 8 hex bolt and clamped the $hit out of it. The tranny linkage as your aware is notorious for rattling loose and dropping off at the most inopportune time. Had my best friends bike do that on a road trip and we played hell getting it back home......good thing I was in the loop from reading this forum, I knew exactly what was going on. One minute you've got a shift peddle, the next minute its gone.
You can also get a washer from the hardware store that is shaped like a wave - the
correct name for it escapes me at the moment, I'm sure someone else here knows what it's called. Anyway it goes on the shaft so that it's closest to the primary cover and will keep tension on the assembly. For that matter you may be able to make one out of a regular flat washer by bending it 10 or 15 degrees.
They're call wave washers. There's also belleville washers but they are cone shaped.
The shift linkage/shaft that the shift levers are mounted to needs to be lubed and kept snug and not allowed to vibrate as per spacing by whatever means you wish or slide the levers tighter against the rubber bushing. Not only does this keep an unwanted rattling noise of the linkage down it prevents the small ball joints of the original linkage from wearing out and excess rattling and vibration is also the cause of the splines on the trans shaft and arm wearing out or stripping causing a breakdown or costly repair.
The heel shifter is the first thing that hits the garbage can or should I say the rubber end. I leave the lever on just to protect my boot and from scratching up the chrome cover. Only had it come slightly loose, a minor tightening of the bolt cured that.
I think people let a loose shifter go on to long and it gets all wobbed out.
For a no cost spacer, you can take the rear shifter lever and move it to the inside of the toe shifter, with both of the rubber pegs facing away from each other but the levers are parallel. Both levers will be facing forward and gives a custom look to your lever and will put the toe shifter outboard a bit more.
I prefer the heel shifter right where it is, myself.
Here's the fix....and it doesn't include simply removing the heel shifter (AKA the Bozo cure).
If the lever is rattling on the shaft no amount of loctite on the splines will cure it. Instead remove the lever and open the gap where the lever is split so it will close further. A hack saw works well for this.
If the levers and shaft are moving side to side you can simply make yourself a new rubber spacer from some rubber hose. Just make it long enough so you have to push the levers on with some force.
Folks I've been reading these post and I haven't seen any mention of how different if any it is to have the shifter peg further left after installing a spacer. I went to install my spacer not understanding that the lever would end up further out so I stopped wondering if I'm going to like that or not. I'm guessing that since there's not much mention it's not much of a difference. Has anyone had any negative experience with the lever and peg further out to the left?
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