Good News
Monkey Bagger Bars with Pics (Install)
Stage I
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: MA
I am new to the forum but have been doing searches and reading posts for awhile now. I just received my black 12" PYO Monkey Bagger bars in the mail today and i need to decide whether I am going to tackle the project on my own or dish out the cash to have it done at a shop. I will be installing them on a 2010 Street Glide. If someone could email me these directions I keep hearing about that would be a good start for me. rastenzel@comcast.net Thanks!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 19
From: Cypress, TX
I have to say I think its really cool of TexasSG to help so many people. I never think enough to take pictures or write down instructions. To me there were only 4 tough spots that I was nervous about.
1. Screwing up the wiring.
Take a picture of the wiring in the plug and the use a fine tip sharpy to write the colors of the wires on the plug as a backup. Use a medium to large paperclip for a molex tool.
2. Ignition removal
Just remove when it is locked. take off the panel and reassemble the ignition hand tight. Always remove when locked left.
3. Pulling wires
No easy answer here. Definitely get rid of the green TBW plug. Either cut and solder or get the SE TBW that relocates the plug. I use conduit lube and a weedeater string attached to a dowel. Don't shrinkwrap your wires so tight they become inflexible or clumpy.
4. Running the uppr/mid brake line to ABS.
Make sure you mask off everything. Connect the lines and fill MC. Use a vacuum to suck fluid through keeping MC full. Once fluid flows freely connect, flick lever and you are good to go. No bubbles in ABS module.
1. Screwing up the wiring.
Take a picture of the wiring in the plug and the use a fine tip sharpy to write the colors of the wires on the plug as a backup. Use a medium to large paperclip for a molex tool.
2. Ignition removal
Just remove when it is locked. take off the panel and reassemble the ignition hand tight. Always remove when locked left.
3. Pulling wires
No easy answer here. Definitely get rid of the green TBW plug. Either cut and solder or get the SE TBW that relocates the plug. I use conduit lube and a weedeater string attached to a dowel. Don't shrinkwrap your wires so tight they become inflexible or clumpy.
4. Running the uppr/mid brake line to ABS.
Make sure you mask off everything. Connect the lines and fill MC. Use a vacuum to suck fluid through keeping MC full. Once fluid flows freely connect, flick lever and you are good to go. No bubbles in ABS module.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: St. Augustine
Install ?
Yeah - Thanks TexasSG for the directions.
I was lucky enough to find these in stock with Dr. V-Twin. I've got a set of 10' on the way. I didn't want to be above the fairing. I will rock them as far forward as they will go.
My question is: I had WO575 installed on my 04 but they weren't quite what I wanted. When they were installed I went with braided clutch and brake lines. The clutch is +4 and the upper break line is over length.
The fact that these cables are already overlength should greatly reduce my install, right? I should be able to just let the perches hang and not worry about reworking them, etc. right? Thinking the hard part for me will be pulling the wires through and the molex plugs?? I'm really hoping to do this myself as I paid to have the 575's installed and don't really want to pay again but I am skeptical.
Thanks everyone for all the great information and sorry for the long post. - DD
I was lucky enough to find these in stock with Dr. V-Twin. I've got a set of 10' on the way. I didn't want to be above the fairing. I will rock them as far forward as they will go.
My question is: I had WO575 installed on my 04 but they weren't quite what I wanted. When they were installed I went with braided clutch and brake lines. The clutch is +4 and the upper break line is over length.
The fact that these cables are already overlength should greatly reduce my install, right? I should be able to just let the perches hang and not worry about reworking them, etc. right? Thinking the hard part for me will be pulling the wires through and the molex plugs?? I'm really hoping to do this myself as I paid to have the 575's installed and don't really want to pay again but I am skeptical.
Thanks everyone for all the great information and sorry for the long post. - DD
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,002
Likes: 1,240
From: On the Front Range, CO
I have to say I think its really cool of TexasSG to help so many people. I never think enough to take pictures or write down instructions. To me there were only 4 tough spots that I was nervous about.
1. Screwing up the wiring.
Take a picture of the wiring in the plug and the use a fine tip sharpy to write the colors of the wires on the plug as a backup. Use a medium to large paperclip for a molex tool.
2. Ignition removal
Just remove when it is locked. take off the panel and reassemble the ignition hand tight. Always remove when locked left.
3. Pulling wires
No easy answer here. Definitely get rid of the green TBW plug. Either cut and solder or get the SE TBW that relocates the plug. I use conduit lube and a weedeater string attached to a dowel. Don't shrinkwrap your wires so tight they become inflexible or clumpy.
4. Running the uppr/mid brake line to ABS.
Make sure you mask off everything. Connect the lines and fill MC. Use a vacuum to suck fluid through keeping MC full. Once fluid flows freely connect, flick lever and you are good to go. No bubbles in ABS module.
1. Screwing up the wiring.
Take a picture of the wiring in the plug and the use a fine tip sharpy to write the colors of the wires on the plug as a backup. Use a medium to large paperclip for a molex tool.
2. Ignition removal
Just remove when it is locked. take off the panel and reassemble the ignition hand tight. Always remove when locked left.
3. Pulling wires
No easy answer here. Definitely get rid of the green TBW plug. Either cut and solder or get the SE TBW that relocates the plug. I use conduit lube and a weedeater string attached to a dowel. Don't shrinkwrap your wires so tight they become inflexible or clumpy.
4. Running the uppr/mid brake line to ABS.
Make sure you mask off everything. Connect the lines and fill MC. Use a vacuum to suck fluid through keeping MC full. Once fluid flows freely connect, flick lever and you are good to go. No bubbles in ABS module.
#4 has me the most concerned. I plan to wrap almost the whole damn bike in painters' plastic, in case fluid leaks. I'll be replacing all the brake lines for the whole front - so from the MC to the ABS module, and the ABS module to the calipers. That way, they'll all match. Hopefully I can bleed enough to keep it rideable to the dealer for the digital tech bleed.
Also, as if dealing with the brake fluid wasn't enough, I get to deal with it twice, as I've got the hydraulic clutch. Which also means I get to pull of my exhaust, and tank to run the brake lines. I knew there was a reason I planned this for the winter....
On a positive note, I went with the 14's. They arrived last week, and just from holding them up on the bike, they are going to be sweet. I am stoked to get them on the bike!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 19
From: Cypress, TX
#4 has me the most concerned. I plan to wrap almost the whole damn bike in painters' plastic, in case fluid leaks. I'll be replacing all the brake lines for the whole front - so from the MC to the ABS module, and the ABS module to the calipers. That way, they'll all match. Hopefully I can bleed enough to keep it rideable to the dealer for the digital tech bleed.
Also, as if dealing with the brake fluid wasn't enough, I get to deal with it twice, as I've got the hydraulic clutch. Which also means I get to pull of my exhaust, and tank to run the brake lines. I knew there was a reason I planned this for the winter....
On a positive note, I went with the 14's. They arrived last week, and just from holding them up on the bike, they are going to be sweet. I am stoked to get them on the bike!
Also, as if dealing with the brake fluid wasn't enough, I get to deal with it twice, as I've got the hydraulic clutch. Which also means I get to pull of my exhaust, and tank to run the brake lines. I knew there was a reason I planned this for the winter....
On a positive note, I went with the 14's. They arrived last week, and just from holding them up on the bike, they are going to be sweet. I am stoked to get them on the bike!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 19
From: Cypress, TX
Yeah - Thanks TexasSG for the directions.
I was lucky enough to find these in stock with Dr. V-Twin. I've got a set of 10' on the way. I didn't want to be above the fairing. I will rock them as far forward as they will go.
My question is: I had WO575 installed on my 04 but they weren't quite what I wanted. When they were installed I went with braided clutch and brake lines. The clutch is +4 and the upper break line is over length.
The fact that these cables are already overlength should greatly reduce my install, right? I should be able to just let the perches hang and not worry about reworking them, etc. right? Thinking the hard part for me will be pulling the wires through and the molex plugs?? I'm really hoping to do this myself as I paid to have the 575's installed and don't really want to pay again but I am skeptical.
Thanks everyone for all the great information and sorry for the long post. - DD
I was lucky enough to find these in stock with Dr. V-Twin. I've got a set of 10' on the way. I didn't want to be above the fairing. I will rock them as far forward as they will go.
My question is: I had WO575 installed on my 04 but they weren't quite what I wanted. When they were installed I went with braided clutch and brake lines. The clutch is +4 and the upper break line is over length.
The fact that these cables are already overlength should greatly reduce my install, right? I should be able to just let the perches hang and not worry about reworking them, etc. right? Thinking the hard part for me will be pulling the wires through and the molex plugs?? I'm really hoping to do this myself as I paid to have the 575's installed and don't really want to pay again but I am skeptical.
Thanks everyone for all the great information and sorry for the long post. - DD
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,002
Likes: 1,240
From: On the Front Range, CO
Some good advice there...I hope it's that easy. Little does my wife know, she'll be out in the garage too since an extra set of hands would be helpful.
One other thing, when you say "flick" the brake lever, can you explain a little further?
I'd already conceded to a dealer visit for the bleed, but I like the challenge of not going too. Guess we'll see!
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 19
From: Cypress, TX
1. Used a small shop vac to suck fluid through until it flowed freely.
2. Mount line to ABS module.
3. Literally flick the lever not squeeze to make sure no bubbles float out. if you see small bubbles keep it up for a while. You can thump the line as well the idea is to get all small bubbles out. The lever should feel tight at this point. Be careful not to splash fluid on anything.
4. Now replace bottom lines. Speed bleeders are plus. Some autoparts have vacuum bleebers you can borrow or rent.
2. Mount line to ABS module.
3. Literally flick the lever not squeeze to make sure no bubbles float out. if you see small bubbles keep it up for a while. You can thump the line as well the idea is to get all small bubbles out. The lever should feel tight at this point. Be careful not to splash fluid on anything.
4. Now replace bottom lines. Speed bleeders are plus. Some autoparts have vacuum bleebers you can borrow or rent.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,002
Likes: 1,240
From: On the Front Range, CO
1. Used a small shop vac to suck fluid through until it flowed freely.
2. Mount line to ABS module.
3. Literally flick the lever not squeeze to make sure no bubbles float out. if you see small bubbles keep it up for a while. You can thump the line as well the idea is to get all small bubbles out. The lever should feel tight at this point. Be careful not to splash fluid on anything.
4. Now replace bottom lines. Speed bleeders are plus. Some autoparts have vacuum bleebers you can borrow or rent.
2. Mount line to ABS module.
3. Literally flick the lever not squeeze to make sure no bubbles float out. if you see small bubbles keep it up for a while. You can thump the line as well the idea is to get all small bubbles out. The lever should feel tight at this point. Be careful not to splash fluid on anything.
4. Now replace bottom lines. Speed bleeders are plus. Some autoparts have vacuum bleebers you can borrow or rent.
Hell yeah Dave, thanks for the run down. I'm feeling more confident about this now.
Dare I say it, but I almost can't wait for winter. Just ordered my inner fairing last night, painted to match. I really hope it doesn't take the 8-12 weeks they quoted.....
