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Chrome Legs

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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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Default Chrome Legs

I read one post where the installer didn't remove the forks from the trees when installing chrome lowers. He split the PVC coupler/pipe so it could be slipped around the fork. I'm assuming he used repeated upward force to seat the seal. Does anyone have any experience in the above install and is it doable??? If it works, it's less work that for sure!!!
 
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 04:47 PM
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Thats correct, no need to remove the leg. the seal is relatively easy to tap down and into the leg. I used some ABS-black plastic drain pipe, forgot what size, maybe 1 1/2"or 2", cut in half and a rubber mallet.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 05:53 PM
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I don't pull the leg outta the tree. I simply push the seal in place using a couple of wooden dowels or similar. I put them 180 degrees from each other and push the seal home.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 01:10 AM
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what they said above. there is an excelent write up on here (or at least there used to be before the reformat). it was posted by a banned member who ruled the tech forum.

anyway, it actually helps you to leave the upper in the tree. It helps to remove the old seal as well.
***be care ful not to strip the 6mm bolt you have to access from the bottom***
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 05:56 AM
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I leave the tubes in the trees until I pull off the lower legs, then I loosen the tubes and remove them from the trees. It is way easer to work putting in the new seals and filling the tubes back up with new oil. After loosening my tubes with the pitch bolt, my tubes slide out easy. I also use a PVC tube spit in half to seat the new seals, real easy see pic.
 
Attached Thumbnails Chrome Legs-img_2210.jpg   Chrome Legs-img_2212.jpg  
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by smokindave
I leave the tubes in the trees until I pull off the lower legs, then I loosen the tubes and remove them from the trees. It is way easer to work putting in the new seals and filling the tubes back up with new oil. After loosening my tubes with the pitch bolt, my tubes slide out easy. I also use a PVC tube spit in half to seat the new seals, real easy see pic.
+1

 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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Arrow Chrome fork legs swap out

My bike is a 2007 FLTR (RoadGlide) and needs more chrome.


Ok gang, I think I can do this with my shop & parts manuals. I'm gonna take them off and have a local chrome plater do them for $190.00 while I'm on vacation. I do have a couple of questions though. I don't want to pull the forks from the bike, just swap out the legs.


1) After the new legs are back and I'm installing them, can I pour the correct amount of fork oil in the lower legs? I'm going with SE oil for a firmer action.

I'll be using pvc to seat the new seals.

2) Can I overcome the forksprings action and just bolt the legs back on?

3) If I want to replace the upper 'beercans' with chrome, can I do this without removing the forks? I don't think so.

I've been searching this Forum for other threads on this subject, there is alot of info here.


Thanx in advance for the tips & tricks & answers. I'll post some pictures when I'm done.


 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 2whlr4life
My bike is a 2007 FLTR (RoadGlide) and needs more chrome.


Ok gang, I think I can do this with my shop & parts manuals. I'm gonna take them off and have a local chrome plater do them for $190.00 while I'm on vacation. I do have a couple of questions though. I don't want to pull the forks from the bike, just swap out the legs.


1) After the new legs are back and I'm installing them, can I pour the correct amount of fork oil in the lower legs? I'm going with SE oil for a firmer action.

I'll be using pvc to seat the new seals.

2) Can I overcome the forksprings action and just bolt the legs back on?

3) If I want to replace the upper 'beercans' with chrome, can I do this without removing the forks? I don't think so.

I've been searching this Forum for other threads on this subject, there is alot of info here.


Thanx in advance for the tips & tricks & answers. I'll post some pictures when I'm done.



Do yourself a favor and drop the forks out of the trees....If not, your play hell getting those fork seals seated...Been there, done that.....Plus, your be there forever trying to get that front bolt out of the cowbell....unless you have "little people" hands...
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 12:01 AM
  #9  
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Arrow Chrome legs removal

Originally Posted by HDV-GLIDE
Do yourself a favor and drop the forks out of the trees....If not, your play hell getting those fork seals seated...Been there, done that.....Plus, your be there forever trying to get that front bolt out of the cowbell....unless you have "little people" hands...


Thanx for the tip. I thought the pvc seating of the new seals might be a problem because of limited space. I just want to get the stockers off and to the chromer at this point.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 01:44 AM
  #10  
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Default A Big Thanx to all

I got all my winter bike projects done by the first day of spring. I've been ridin' ever since.

I went to Jamica for a vacation and some RedStripe beers. While I was gone my lower legs were chromed locally. I got them on with no issues thanx to all the tips & threads here. I bookmarked at least 7 or 8 threads for help.
To recap;

I dropped the lower legs with the forks still on the bike, by far the easiest way.

I didn't remove any part of my fairing, didn't need to.

I didn't have any problems removing/reinstalling the key switch. That video
allayed my fears there.

I didn't remove the springs, didn't need to.

I used 1 1/2" pvc to seat the new seals off the bike.

I installed the chrome cowbells with the forks out.

I slid the tubes back up in the trees b4 filling with SE heavy oil.

I used my manual mainly for help with taking the plastic nacelle off and the wiring connectors.

I had many RedStripes to help me.

I took a bunch of pictures just in case, the ones posted in the threads were better then mine. I'll post a b4 & after in the next couple of days.

It really was easy to do myself and I saved a ton of cash! If anyone is thinking about it GO FOR IT!

No scratches, dings, dents, or leftover parts.

Now I gotta start saving for a new agitator wheel, the stocker looks dull.

End of story and thanx for the help!

 
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