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Joined: Jul 2009
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Not finding any videos, but it isn't terribly difficult...
Release tension on the clutch at the clutch cable adjuster, remove outer primary cover. Use a 1/4"x1" bar cut to length to fit between the two sprockets, (top to bottom) or a block/wrench wedged between the chain and sprocket, to keep the sprockets from turning. Remove the primary chain adjuster carriage bolt. Remove the compensator nut (left hand thread) with a pneumatic impact wrench or long breaker bar. The compensator nut is different size on specific years. Being as the sockets are 3/4" drive, you may also need a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter if you don't have a 3/4" drive breaker or impact wrench. Remove the clutch adjuster screw/lock nut, retaining ring, and release plate. Remove the clutch hub mainshaft nut. This is also a left hand thread, and you will need to lock the primary chain sprockets once more to do this.
Then the compensator nut, primary chain w/adjuster, and the clutch should just slide off. Reverse order and torque to specs for reinstallation.
If yer just replacing the fiber and/or metal plates, its much simpler. You won't need to remove the compensator nut or primary chain and adjuster. Just the clutch adjuster screw, locking nut, retaining ring, and release plate. Then remove the six bolts from the pressure plate, and the fiber/metal plates and judder spring and spring seat(damper spring and damper spring seat) can be pulled out of the clutch basket. You might also want to take a close look at the surface where the last fiber plate rides on the clutch hub. Mine was worn and needs a new clutch basket.
Release tension on the clutch at the clutch cable adjuster, remove outer primary cover. Use a 1/4"x1" bar cut to length to fit between the two sprockets, (top to bottom) or a block/wrench wedged between the chain and sprocket, to keep the sprockets from turning. Remove the primary chain adjuster carriage bolt. Remove the compensator nut (left hand thread) with a pneumatic impact wrench or long breaker bar. The compensator nut is different size on specific years. Being as the sockets are 3/4" drive, you may also need a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter if you don't have a 3/4" drive breaker or impact wrench. Remove the clutch adjuster screw/lock nut, retaining ring, and release plate. Remove the clutch hub mainshaft nut. This is also a left hand thread, and you will need to lock the primary chain sprockets once more to do this.
Then the compensator nut, primary chain w/adjuster, and the clutch should just slide off. Reverse order and torque to specs for reinstallation.
If yer just replacing the fiber and/or metal plates, its much simpler. You won't need to remove the compensator nut or primary chain and adjuster. Just the clutch adjuster screw, locking nut, retaining ring, and release plate. Then remove the six bolts from the pressure plate, and the fiber/metal plates and judder spring and spring seat(damper spring and damper spring seat) can be pulled out of the clutch basket. You might also want to take a close look at the surface where the last fiber plate rides on the clutch hub. Mine was worn and needs a new clutch basket.
Last edited by CroK; Jan 5, 2010 at 03:51 PM.
OK im LL FOR THAT, what kind <o> beer and GPS LOCATION. hell i'll even bring steak's if you want em.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Vermont
If you're up for it, what time frame are you looking at having it done? I assume before riding season? I am going to be doing soos' bike probably at the end of this month and then I'll just be tinkering on my own stuff. What clutch basket are you putting in, a stock replacement or aftermarket?
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Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
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Jun 14, 2021 05:53 AM
