Ok I started this thread in the suspension section with no responce. I just want to know if my method is ok or if I really need to tear the fork apart.

Yesterday I decided to change the fork oil in my 04 Ultra Classic. My service manual said that 03-05 models are bothe cartridge type forks and they can simply be drained and then refilled from the top. Not so simple since the fairing and radio must be removed to do this. Also my bike does not have the air shock fittings. So I got the bike appart and then drained the fluid. But to my surprise when I went to refill the left fork I could hardly get any fluid in it. Apparently after reading several different threads here, my bike has a cartridge on one side and non cartridge on the other. Now according to the service manual I have to completely remove the fork and disassemble to refill the fork fluid. I did not accept this as my only option so I found a different way. I discovered that the pump that I use to refill the lower end fluid on my boat has the same threads as the fork drain plugs. Anyway I thought I would give you all a quick description of how I did it. I wanted to make sure that there wasnt any problem with doing it this way.

I started by pulling the plugs and sitting on the bike and pushing down on the forks to drain as much fluid out as possible.

I then placed the bike on the lift and after removing the fairing and radio, I removed both of the hex shaped fork end caps.

I then attached the hand pump hose to the drain hole and pumped in 10 ounces of fluid. I actually measured out about 10.2 ounces because the pump won't get every drop out of the bottle. If any one could chime in on the correct amount I'd appreciate it. The manual was pretty vague. ended up going off of information I found here.

Once I had pumped the fluid in, I reinstalled hex shaped fork caps.
That kind of created a vaccum to keep the oil from surging back out although a little still did shoot back out. I just put my finger over the hole as soon as I could get the pump hose unscrewed and replaced the drain screws.

It is very cold and snow on the ground here in central Illinois so no test riding yet. The bike feels pretty sturdy in the garage and there are no leaks that I can detect. I would appreciate any input you all mite have. If enough people tell me that this was completely wrong I will find another way or perhaps pay the dealer which I hate to do, but would hate a firey crash even more.

Thanks in advance

 

Did you do a search and run across 07 fork oil change? I think they cover different years as well. Good writeup by iclick in there. about 15 pages of good info.

 

That technique will work just fine. Best thing to do though is measure what comes out and refill with that amount.

That said, you DO NOT have to remove the radio OR fairing, just the fairing cap.

If you get a spare fork cap, the hex one, and drill a hole through it you can put a tapered Mighty Vac fitting in it and hook a vacuum source to it. Fill a Ratio Rite with the same amount of fluid that drained out, + a 1/4 ounce or so. Get another tapered fitting and a piece of clear tubing that fits on it and long enough to reach from the drain hole to the bottom of the Ratio Rite cup. Have your drain screw ready on a screwdriver, start the vacuum, as soon as the cup is empty, knock the hose out and start the screw, as soon as you start the screw stop the vacuum and finish installing the screw. Easy as pie.

Takes less time to do than it did to type this!!

 

Thanks for the info. I like the vacuum idea. I did read through the Iclick thread. A lot of very interesting information. As for measuring the amount that came out of the forks, well that ship has kind of sailed. I had already drained it into an oil pan that had other fluids in it before I posted this. I may just redo the process on my next set of days off. If for no other reason then just to use the heavier SE oil. The bike has about 28000 miles on it so I may just go ahead and tear the forks down. I read through the service manual and although it is a little time consuming it doesn't seem all that complicated. Thanks again I'll keep you posted.

 

I answered your message over in the other section at around noon today, but didn't offer much in the way of useful advise since I haven't worked with cartridge forks. I think Hogdoc is giving you good pointers, and I agree that you don't need to remove the radio and outer-fairing. I miss the ease of changing fork oil in the old air-forks, which was a 20-min. job max with my '96 RK, and I like Hogdoc's idea of installing a Schrader valve in some location on the fork. The top-plug idea seems like a good one.

The procedure I outlined in my write-up for the '07 and later models isn't quite that quick but at about an hour is not a burden to do every two years or so. You said your forks don't allow you do add oil from the top, but I wonder if you could do it a few oz. at a time like I had to do with my '07 non-cartidge forks. If so, it shouldn't be any more involved than what I described.

 

Ya I think you may be right about the few ounces at a time. While I was attempting to put the fluid in through the top I noticed that there was some fluid getting in. The only reason I know is because when I gave up and decided to pump it in through the drain hole, I drained it again first and did get some out. As slow as it was going it would take hours. When I first tried filling the left side I didn't realize the oil wasn't going in until I had nice little puddle under the bike. I guess I'm one of those guys that has to learn things the hard way.

 

Maybe someone could try adding a few, pump the forks, then keep going 'til it sucks it all in. That's the way it worked for my '07. After a few pumps the sucking sound changed tone, which told me it was ready for another dose.

 

Your thread gave me a great idea
I have a 2000 EG that just needed the fork oil changed.
I have air over oil forks, This works awesome, remove the schrader valve to your air lines, remove the drain bolts and drain the fluid, because the schrader has been remove the fluid will just poor out. Then when you get that done. get a vacuum pump and hook that up to the schrader valve and the put a clear hose into the fork tube where you removed the drain valve, and the other end into the fork oil, Apply vacuum and watch the oil get sucked in. Its that easy.

yes it works

 

Yep it does, it's been done this way for years.

 

id actually put a little less than 10.2 oz in. there is still oil in the fork tube walls. you never get it all out. i did mine and put in exactly 10,2 oz and they are way to stiff. the weight of the oil has nothing to do with compression damping but everything to do with rebound damping. the amount of oil you put in has everything to do with how stiff your forks will be in the final small amount of travel before bottoming. the fork spring effects the majority of your compression.