Auxiliary Brake/Run/Turn Signal Conversion Kit
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Auxiliary Brake/Run/Turn Signal Conversion Kit
I installed an Auxiliary Brake/Run/Turn Signal Conversion Kit on my 2000 FLHTCUI Gezzer Glide, and it continually blew the 15 amp "lights" fuse. The installation instructions, not the package where you can read before buying, say that this module will draw an additional 4.5 amps when the brakes are used (from the light circuit not the brake circuit) but the instructions do not tell you how to compensate. Increase the fuse size? Usually not a good answer. Splicing, not in a brake light. Could it be it's because the Ultra already has extra running lights on three sides of the Tour Pack? Probably. Wish the package would have warned about this. So out it came. A waste of money since electrical parts cannot be returned. If you have an idea, I'd love to hear it.
Additional info: All lights work fine with the ignition on, but the bike not running, battery voltage at 12.6v; with the engine running battery voltage is 14.2v, where it should be, and the fuse blows when the brake lights are applied. So nominal current draw is at the 15 amp fuse rating.
Additional info: All lights work fine with the ignition on, but the bike not running, battery voltage at 12.6v; with the engine running battery voltage is 14.2v, where it should be, and the fuse blows when the brake lights are applied. So nominal current draw is at the 15 amp fuse rating.
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Currently the pig country of Arkansas
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RE: Auxiliary Brake/Run/Turn Signal Conversion Kit
I've got one I installed on my RK Classic after I salvaged it from my totaled Heritage. Mine has worked well on 2 bikes with no charge or fuse issues.
Rear turn signals now light up bright for brake applications and flash for turn signal. Mine does not keep the turn signals burning as running lights (fortunately) as I have seen some of the newer versions. This way when I get on the brakes there is a bigger change as I transition from 1 running light to 3 bright stop lights. This tends to catch the eye quicker.
How old is the kit? You may have a chafed wire somewhere in the mix which is grounding out and blowing the fuse. On edit, I think I remember there was an extra wire modification requirement on some of the baggers. I don't have my instructions still, but like I said earlier it has worked on both a softail and a Road King Classic. Do you still have the instructions?
Edmo
Rear turn signals now light up bright for brake applications and flash for turn signal. Mine does not keep the turn signals burning as running lights (fortunately) as I have seen some of the newer versions. This way when I get on the brakes there is a bigger change as I transition from 1 running light to 3 bright stop lights. This tends to catch the eye quicker.
How old is the kit? You may have a chafed wire somewhere in the mix which is grounding out and blowing the fuse. On edit, I think I remember there was an extra wire modification requirement on some of the baggers. I don't have my instructions still, but like I said earlier it has worked on both a softail and a Road King Classic. Do you still have the instructions?
Edmo
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RE: Auxiliary Brake/Run/Turn Signal Conversion Kit
Thanks for the response. It's a new one. Lights the rear turn signals as running lights too, which is what I think is putting it over the edge. All works well without the engine running at 12.6 volts, but start it up and the voltage rises to 14.2 volts and it blows. Runs well with a 20 amp fuse, so it must be just slightly above 15amps, and is not a short. A resistance check from the fuse block, and Ohm's Law, confirms the current used also.
I can't see the wire guage marking on the wiring, and it's not in the manual so I can't tell the amperage rating of the standard cable. The dealer was no help (surprise, surprise) since I'm doing it myself. I was hoping somone else ran into the same problem. Thanks again for taking the time to repond. George
I can't see the wire guage marking on the wiring, and it's not in the manual so I can't tell the amperage rating of the standard cable. The dealer was no help (surprise, surprise) since I'm doing it myself. I was hoping somone else ran into the same problem. Thanks again for taking the time to repond. George
#7
I know this is an olod thread, but we just had a 04 FXSTD in the shop and had to remove 3 aftermarket control modules from the bike in order to make any of the lights wqork at all!
Back to basic bike made everything work just fine!
Can't diagnose those modules either cuz they're all covered in solid plastic so you can't see what parts they used and build your own!!!
We have a lot of guys bring in their scoots cuz those things go bad.
It's the same with Cadillacs, put some aftermarket part in a Caddy and see what happens!!!!!
Back to basic bike made everything work just fine!
Can't diagnose those modules either cuz they're all covered in solid plastic so you can't see what parts they used and build your own!!!
We have a lot of guys bring in their scoots cuz those things go bad.
It's the same with Cadillacs, put some aftermarket part in a Caddy and see what happens!!!!!
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it's one of the first mods i did to my 08 sg. best mod i've made too. with a single taillight, like a roadglide or roadking, they only got one light bulb for the rear end of the bike, meaning if that bulb fails you're standing a better chance of getting run over. using this module and lenses, makes a huge improvement for safety.
#10
it's one of the first mods i did to my 08 sg. best mod i've made too. with a single taillight, like a roadglide or roadking, they only got one light bulb for the rear end of the bike, meaning if that bulb fails you're standing a better chance of getting run over. using this module and lenses, makes a huge improvement for safety.
Thanks for your input. No one is disputing that. The problem the OP and I are having is that after installing said product we are blowing fuses. I don't know, maybe we are the only 2 people that this has happened to.