Stock easy pull clutch slips now!
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 783
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From: Sacramento
Stock easy pull clutch slips now!
Hey group, my 07 comes with an easy pull clutch. With 32k miles, with the new cams and extra power, the stock clutch can no longer keep up. I noticed tonight, accelerating from 90mph in 6th, the 6th gear light went off and I could tell the engine was accelerating slightly faster than the bike. When I let off slightly, the slipping stopped and the 6th gear light came back on. Any idea for a clutch upgrade that won't break the bank that will handle the extra torque? Thanks in advance for your help.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
Try putting a SE spring or a race spring on the stock clutch. It may make an improvement for you and its a lot cheaper than doing an entire race set up. I have a 103 kit with almost 25k on it and still using the original stock clutch, and I do an occasional burn out once in a blue moon
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 280
From: North Cental Iowa
the SE 103 kits come with the SE heavy clutch spring, you can get it separately or you can get a Barnett spring, that's what I'm using. Either of those should only run you about $35, be ready to pull on that lever a little harder!
Banned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,551
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Fersure install the Screaming Eagle spring. It costs 20 bucks plus one qt of primary fluid.
Odds are you can reuse your primary gasket. Takes about an hour and requires minimal tools and tech experience.
The SE spring is .80" thick verses .65 OEM. I could hardly tell the difference is increased lever effort, but a huge difference in clutch lock up.
Odds are you can reuse your primary gasket. Takes about an hour and requires minimal tools and tech experience.
The SE spring is .80" thick verses .65 OEM. I could hardly tell the difference is increased lever effort, but a huge difference in clutch lock up.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,532
Likes: 132
From: SoCal
Yeah go with a stronger spring but in the meanwhile don't abuse your clutch cause my experience has been that once they start slipping even putting in a stronger spring may not stop the slipping and you may have to put new clutch plates , both fiber and steel, after the slipping gets your present clutch all glazed and heat checked, and I have tried the sanding them on the driveway trick. Just riding around and taking it easy should be ok though.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2009
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I'm runnin SE204 cams also. Mine was slipping exactly as you speak of, at highway speeds and above when I apply a bit more throttle. Although I did purchase a new EnergyOne Extra Plate Clutch Kit with the heavier clutch spring, I found I did not need to install it yet...
I readjusted my clutch PROPERLY! When you make adjustments at the clutch adjuster screw, make sure you tighten it several times. Meaning, turn the screw until you feel pressure then go a little more. Back off about half a turn, and tighten again. And again, go beyond where you begin to feel resistance. After three or four times of doing this, I found that the adjuster screw was being turned in more before feeling resistance. Maybe this was clearing out some of the fluid, or just flattening the plates out, couldn't say. But once the adjustment was done this way, it will come to the point when you feel resistance at the same point on the adjuster screw. I now have absolutely no slippage, at any speed/power range. And, I have almost 80K miles on mine.
Another thing too, might be the type of fluid yer runnin in the primary. Reading the EntergyOne clutch installation directions, I found that they do not recommend synthetic primary oil, and if you use ATF transmission fluid EnergyOne also says DO NOT use Dextron because it can allow the clutch disks to slip.
I readjusted my clutch PROPERLY! When you make adjustments at the clutch adjuster screw, make sure you tighten it several times. Meaning, turn the screw until you feel pressure then go a little more. Back off about half a turn, and tighten again. And again, go beyond where you begin to feel resistance. After three or four times of doing this, I found that the adjuster screw was being turned in more before feeling resistance. Maybe this was clearing out some of the fluid, or just flattening the plates out, couldn't say. But once the adjustment was done this way, it will come to the point when you feel resistance at the same point on the adjuster screw. I now have absolutely no slippage, at any speed/power range. And, I have almost 80K miles on mine.
Another thing too, might be the type of fluid yer runnin in the primary. Reading the EntergyOne clutch installation directions, I found that they do not recommend synthetic primary oil, and if you use ATF transmission fluid EnergyOne also says DO NOT use Dextron because it can allow the clutch disks to slip.
Last edited by CroK; Mar 21, 2010 at 02:59 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,788
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From: Here
Think CroK is on to something. Have you adjusted the clutch (not the cable) recently? Not saying you can't benefit from the stiffer spring, but this would be a "free" check to make sure it's adjusted properly. If the adjuster screw/pushrod isn't allowing the spring to put full pressure on the pressure plate, you could get slipping and the cams finally made it noticeable. Anyway, that's the first thing I would check. If you still get slipping, go for the new spring.
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Sacramento
After getting my bike dialed in after the cam change, I did a full service on the bike, adjusted steering head bearings, changed out all the fluids. I changed out the Amsoil 10/40 and went with Royal Purple ATF. I loosened the clutch cable all the way and performed the primary clutch adjustment and readjusted the clutch cable. Clutch engagement with the ATF felt better, more sure. Harley recommends getting rid of the easypull clutch spring even with a stage one upgrade. My bike is putting out way more than that. I imagine if I had the stock style spring from 06 and earlier, it wouldn't be an issue. If I'm going in there to change that out, I was wondering what my options are.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Here
There are also the VP clutch from AIM (http://www.aim-tamachi.com/home.php?cat=3). Not too spendy and do a good job clamping the plates tight. That with the stock spring should handle your cams, but add the SE spring and it would handle whatever you managed to throw at it.
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Sacramento
There are also the VP clutch from AIM (http://www.aim-tamachi.com/home.php?cat=3). Not too spendy and do a good job clamping the plates tight. That with the stock spring should handle your cams, but add the SE spring and it would handle whatever you managed to throw at it.