SE pushrods, which set?
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: Kingman, AZ
SE pushrods, which set?
Putting together list of items needed to do the 96 TC cam swap. I am doing the bolt-cutter method and installing adjustable pushrods. I see two sets listed for the 08 96TC. 18404-08 and 17997-99A, what is the difference?
I think the only thing that scares me about the swap having read iclick's and atrain68's great write-ups is going to be adjusting the pushrods properly. The 17997-99A does state they are for cam changes where heads are not removed so I am pretty certain they are the ones I need.
Or are there other brands even better?
I think the only thing that scares me about the swap having read iclick's and atrain68's great write-ups is going to be adjusting the pushrods properly. The 17997-99A does state they are for cam changes where heads are not removed so I am pretty certain they are the ones I need.
Or are there other brands even better?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Vermont
The -08 are tapered and can/should be used with higher lift cams. The -08 ones are also better because it does away with the pushrod rubbing on the tube top like the -99A's are prone to do. Either set can be used without removing the rocker boxes.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Po-Dunk Looziana
Both will work, I liked the Premium tapered 18404-08 a bit better than the older ones as they seemed to be a bit better tensil strength and the tapered end was nice too.
6 one way, half a dozen the other. Either one.
6 one way, half a dozen the other. Either one.
Tourer
Joined: May 2006
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Put this in the for what its worth file. I followed Iclick and Atrains threads that were excellent, I installed the 255s with the SE tapered adjustables.
Followed the instructions and everything went as planned until I started it up and the valve noise was terrible, like a pushrod wasn't adjusted right. I had put the front cylinder at TDC, then I adjusted the pushrods till they were snug, then tightened them 2.5 turns, my lifters took about 30 minutes to bleed down and then I could turn them like the instructions said. Then I did the rear cylinder the same way.
It sounded like **** and by then I was pretty bummed, then I started reading the threads about adjustables coming loose and I said screw it and took it to the dealer and told them to put solid pushrods back in it. they charged me 3 hrs @ 65 labor and $ 100 something for the SE perfect fit pushrods, so I am pretty happy now.
I am sure I must have done something wrong, maybe they were not truely on TDC, I am not sure. Good luck.
Followed the instructions and everything went as planned until I started it up and the valve noise was terrible, like a pushrod wasn't adjusted right. I had put the front cylinder at TDC, then I adjusted the pushrods till they were snug, then tightened them 2.5 turns, my lifters took about 30 minutes to bleed down and then I could turn them like the instructions said. Then I did the rear cylinder the same way.
It sounded like **** and by then I was pretty bummed, then I started reading the threads about adjustables coming loose and I said screw it and took it to the dealer and told them to put solid pushrods back in it. they charged me 3 hrs @ 65 labor and $ 100 something for the SE perfect fit pushrods, so I am pretty happy now.
I am sure I must have done something wrong, maybe they were not truely on TDC, I am not sure. Good luck.
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From: Kingman, AZ
iclick as I recall actually pulled the heads using the wood block trick and since I only have the cams on the workbench at the moment that is still an option not completely off the table.
Now if I could just get one of the guys over at that point of the reinstall for beers and steak to set them right.....no worries!
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