Gary Beatty inner bearing pulled and installer tool
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,562
Likes: 3,955
From: Vermont
The one in my pic is the TC88 tool and it has the bolt. Is your pic of the 96 or the 88 tool? I don't know if Gary made them different or not or if some are mixed or matched.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Mine's the late-model tool. It seems like you'd need the smooth part of the rod (i.e. not a bolt head or threaded rod) on one end to shove through the puller section.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1
From: Desert S. West
Are there any other tools needed to do a cam change on a TC96? Trying to gather everything I'll need to do this. Also; where's the best place to get the Torrington B-168 inner cam bearings? I see Georges Garage has them for $26 delivered.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by BoomerBob; Jun 2, 2010 at 07:01 AM.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
I think that's the only special tool you have to have unless you want to get a pushrods remover/installer tool or cam lock tool. You so need a good torque wrench that reads inch pounds and Ft lbs. Also I think j got my bearings for much leas online from Chicago HD.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
You will only need a bearing puller/installer, torque wrenches (in/lb and ft/lb), the usual tool list (Torx, Allen, sockets, etc.), bearings, and the usual sundry parts (gaskets, o-rings, etc.). If you're re-using the stock pushrods I would buy the Fuel Moto cam-install kit ($50) which includes the Torrington bearings. OTOH if you're using adjustables you should probably part-out the few gaskets and o-rings you'll need, as there isn't much needed. The pushrod kit should have the 12 tube o-rings included. You'll also need a bolt-cutter if you want to cut-out the stock pushrods to install adjustables.
Don't worry about the two special tools mentioned in the service manual. The sprocket-locking tool is unnecessary since to torque the two flange bolts you can simply have someone hold the rear brake while the bike is in gear. I can't figure out why you need the "alignment" tool to put the cams in the cam chest, although I suppose if you're not careful you could get the two cams out of alignment by jumping a cog while installing it, but if you're careful I can't see this happening.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
You don't need to spend money on the cam alignment tool on the TC96. I used the cam plate do the exact same thing.
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