Handlebar swap - replace throttle/idle cables
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From:
Handlebar swap - replace throttle/idle cables
Just about finished with Wild1 WO577B 12.5" mini-apes and Magnum Black Pearl handlebar and cable/line swap on 07 SG and thought I'd offer a tip on throttle/idle cable replacement.
Forum was helpful getting me there over Service Manual. Service Manual says "Drain/Purge, disconnect lines, release high pressure, lift/remove tank, blah, blah, blah...." PITA! Especially after removing entire exhaust to get to clutch cover for clutch cable replacement! Another member found a way to lift tank a few inches with 1x2/2x4" blocks, but NOT disconnect anything.
Here's one better: Forget about doing anything with fuel lines or tank!
Take a close look and you will see that throttle/idle only run about 10-12 inches under tank. Use a flashlight to see existing cable route from front and rear. The ONLY reason for removing tank is to run throttle/idle cables through the "b" (mounting bracket holder looks like a "b" bolted/welded to frame). The "o"/hole in the "b" is about as big as your thumb. PLENTY large enough for this trick!
After removing induction throttle/idle cable ends, tie strong twine/string to each cable end, several knots, just above ferrell. I tied one to each so that if one broke, I'd still have a pull string. Pull old cables, one at a time, out from the front. Tie twine/string to new cable and pull back in! Easy, huh? Just follow Service Manual from there to install induction and handlebar control sides and adjust throttle/idle cables BEFORE re-installing air cleaner/breather.
I have to think the H-D techs at the dealers are laughing at this one and a number of other tricks they use to get jobs done in minutes, while charging several hours labor!
Forum was helpful getting me there over Service Manual. Service Manual says "Drain/Purge, disconnect lines, release high pressure, lift/remove tank, blah, blah, blah...." PITA! Especially after removing entire exhaust to get to clutch cover for clutch cable replacement! Another member found a way to lift tank a few inches with 1x2/2x4" blocks, but NOT disconnect anything.
Here's one better: Forget about doing anything with fuel lines or tank!
Take a close look and you will see that throttle/idle only run about 10-12 inches under tank. Use a flashlight to see existing cable route from front and rear. The ONLY reason for removing tank is to run throttle/idle cables through the "b" (mounting bracket holder looks like a "b" bolted/welded to frame). The "o"/hole in the "b" is about as big as your thumb. PLENTY large enough for this trick!
After removing induction throttle/idle cable ends, tie strong twine/string to each cable end, several knots, just above ferrell. I tied one to each so that if one broke, I'd still have a pull string. Pull old cables, one at a time, out from the front. Tie twine/string to new cable and pull back in! Easy, huh? Just follow Service Manual from there to install induction and handlebar control sides and adjust throttle/idle cables BEFORE re-installing air cleaner/breather.
I have to think the H-D techs at the dealers are laughing at this one and a number of other tricks they use to get jobs done in minutes, while charging several hours labor!
Last edited by kdclaiborne; May 21, 2010 at 08:17 AM. Reason: remove last line
Cruiser
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
That's a great tip. I just finished installing the 575's. I didn't swap out the throttle and idle cables mainly because I didn't want to pull the tank off. The stock cables are a little tight, but work okay. But after reading your tip, I may do it at a later date. Thanks
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From:
If I can save one poor sole from following service manual on this, I'll have contributed back 1% of what I've gotten from this forum! Seriously, most time was tying, cutting and re-tying string. Just pull out and pull back in. Might have to work 2nd cable back and forth a bit, but really nothing to it! I'm going back with radio and ignition panel/switch today, then front upper brake line. Next: drain forks and wait for black powder coat parts today/Monday, then put front end and front brake lines back together, some brake fluid. Done! Looks like I might get a couple of weeks to ride down here in Texas before we hit 100! Should have done this over the winter!
Banned
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,259
Likes: 5
From: NW NC
I just worked with a friend to replace these cables on a Fatboy and although it sometimes took five hands we didn't remove exhaust but did un-secure tank so route cables. The bike we were working on we did not have a service manual for but my buddy is am Indy that just needed an extra couple hands so we got by.
Stage I
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2007 fxst stock HD cables are thiner then the clear cotted braded after market ones. Tape or shrink wrap one new cable too one old cable and pull slow. Once you have enough new cable through rip of the old one and tape the other new one and pull them both. Scotter~Tramp
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
msamarah86
Frame/Suspension/Front End/Brakes
1
Jul 12, 2011 08:57 AM
