'07 Idle Issues
Thursday I am bringing it to the dealer. I went and talked to the service manager with a copy of TT410 and everything I have been experiencing. I should be getting the ECM update at no charge. I also requested they replace the TPS and the IAC, "just in case" since both parts total under a hundred bucks.
Having the fluids changed as well.
Once I have her back and get some good runs in, I will update if this resolved all the idle issues I had.
The dealer is going to rape u! They loving taking folks money, especially if it sounds like you don't wrench on your own bike. I would suggest buying the HD manual for your bike for $60 or you can find it alot cheaper online if u have a nice printer.
The IAC is so easy to replace. Just take out the 2 front bolts & put a 2x4 board under it or u can even loosen the rear bolt if u want. I have the screaming eagle backplate. The crankcase breather hoses go into the throttle body as u know. Reckon some of that oil mist goes into IAC motor, so I spent $4 dollars on rubber hoses, T, & clamps & rerouted them. Problem solved & I don't know if it's like the kid with new shoes, but seems to run stronger. Hope this helps brach! Ride safe!
Thursday I am bringing it to the dealer. I went and talked to the service manager with a copy of TT410 and everything I have been experiencing. I should be getting the ECM update at no charge. I also requested they replace the TPS and the IAC, "just in case" since both parts total under a hundred bucks.
Having the fluids changed as well.
Once I have her back and get some good runs in, I will update if this resolved all the idle issues I had.
Ok...thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, and those who communicated directly back to me.
First off let me say, I do wrench my own bikes...always have. However, this is a new (to me) bike and when I totalled my last bike, I lost a ton of tools in the process....don't ask!
So although replacing both the IAC and TPS is ez to do, for me, I have zero tools and even less time these days.
I wish that dealer-bashing would ease off a bit. Maybe after y'all read this, you will change your opinions somewhat.
So this issue has plagued 2007 models for a while now. I believe mine are finally resolved. Through my own research on this thread, other forums, the repair manual, and a meeting with my local dealer service manager, the repair was affordable, and the dealer worked "with" me instead of "for" me.
I met last week with the SM and went over all I had done - typed up - the conclusions I had drawn from the research, the bulletin TT410, etc. After an hour of talk about the bike, the issue, causes, etc. We both agreed to do the following, since this is a somewhat intermittent problem:
Replace the IAC and TPS - parts cost was cheap, and they charged a half hour labor to do it. They flashed the ECM with the cal download from TT410 for free (using the labor code provided on the bulletin itself), checked everything else over, set up the idle and throttle cables, and I had the fluids done as well.
I got it back last night and rode home the long way. The bike runs strong. Throttle response is smooth and accurate. The idle returns to just a hair under 1K everytime I stopped or pulled in the clutch. It is definately different, so although it will take some runs and time to say it is fixed for certain, I feel like it is.
The SM had the shop foreman do the work on my bike and he even said he learned a few things from this issue. They retained a copy of TT410 for their records - since they had never received it. I think working with these guys was the best approach toward really resolving this. The dealer did not rob me blind and all rates and prices were exactly what I expected through research.
WHY DID I DO THE DL, AND REPLACE BOTH THE TPS AND IAC?
On this thread and other forums, this problem was declared fixed by IAC replacement alone, TPS replacement alone, and the ECM cal alone. At zero cost for the DL, and parts cost for the IAC and TPS being under a hundred bucks, I wanted to be sure.
If this approach helps someone who has been struggling through this nuisance issue, then this whole thread will have been worth it.
This forum rules. After using it for years to help me fix my old Street Bob, and now for this ghost issue...I am forever going to recommend this to all my fellow HD brothers and sisters to read BEFORE they tear the bike apart themselves or take it blindly into any dealer - some are better than others.
NASHUA HD IN NASHUA NH, JASON TARDIFF AND JAMIE INNES IN THE SERVICE DEPT ARE SOME OF THE BEST HD HAS WORKING FOR THEM.
Thanks again to all who helped me get from point A to B.
Rock on....here comes winter...but spring will be here before we know it, and the roads will crowd up with 2-wheelers once again!!
Joking aside, you also won't know which component was the culprit. OTOH, who cares? It's probably going to be the TPS or IAC, so between the two of them you're out maybe $70 and changing them out isn't a big job. Your dealer was very good to you with his labor rates, so I'm not surprised you're happy with his service.
BTW, I got a tip from my dealer tech friend last weekend about accessing the inside Torx bolt on the TPS, which has a clearance problem with the engine fins. He said a "long" Torx bit would make the extraction and re-install easy, like this one sold on Ebay. I don't know if this will help with the inside bolt on the IAC, though, but I got mine out with a ź" ratchet and Torx bit, which was just the right size to fit and give enough clearance to unscrew the bolt. All are Loctited in, so you probably can't move them most of the way by hand.
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