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'07 Idle Issues

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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 07:17 AM
  #371  
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spdrcrjl
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After a 200 mile ride to NH and back. The problem of a low idle the stalling when coming to a stop is still there. IAC or TPS???
 
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 07:18 AM
  #372  
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TPS is cheaper. Start there.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 07:38 AM
  #373  
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Originally Posted by soft 02
TPS is cheaper. Start there.
And easier to get at too. I will be replacing it as soon as I get some free time at night.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 07:27 AM
  #374  
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Having the same prob on my 07 SG. Had the stealer look at and found nothing. It wouldnt stall out for them. When i picked it ip from them the prob wasnt there got about 1500 miles andbthen this past sunday it did it again. So sll you guys and thunking its the iac and tps?? How long and diff is it to replace them?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 08:50 AM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by mp535th
Having the same prob on my 07 SG. Had the stealer look at and found nothing. It wouldnt stall out for them. When i picked it ip from them the prob wasnt there got about 1500 miles andbthen this past sunday it did it again. So sll you guys and thunking its the iac and tps?? How long and diff is it to replace them?
Takes me 15 minutes or so. Very easy.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 10:21 AM
  #376  
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IAC is easy if you have a right angle torx wrench, like a right angle screwdriver. If you don't, getting the top screw out is a b!tch. I didn't have a driver so had to pull my tank. I could have gone and gotten a driver but wanted to see how hard it was to pull my tank anyway.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 07:33 AM
  #377  
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The TPS is much easier to replace than the IAC.

I was told of a simple way to check TPS. First unplug the TPS. Using a digital volt/ohms meter connect the test leads to the TPS it self and check the Ohms resistance when operating the throttle (idle to wide open throttle). If the ohms resistance goes to open or is not a steady up and down change in the numbers the TPS is bad.

Unfortunately I have not had the time to work on my problem yet. Work and kids seem to come first. LOL.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 06:16 PM
  #378  
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Originally Posted by spdrcrjl
The TPS is much easier to replace than the IAC.

I was told of a simple way to check TPS. First unplug the TPS. Using a digital volt/ohms meter connect the test leads to the TPS it self and check the Ohms resistance when operating the throttle (idle to wide open throttle). If the ohms resistance goes to open or is not a steady up and down change in the numbers the TPS is bad.

Unfortunately I have not had the time to work on my problem yet. Work and kids seem to come first. LOL.
Just to clarify, the tps is on the throttle wire by the neck of the bike? 07 ultra by the way. Did the ohm check with power on and off and it stayed at .3 the whole way. So is that good or bad?
 
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #379  
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Originally Posted by eberg
Just to clarify, the tps is on the throttle wire by the neck of the bike? 07 ultra by the way. Did the ohm check with the power on and off and it stayed at .3 the whole way. So is that good or bad?
The Harley check is with the ignition key on and motor off. With a DC meter, it should show 0.20-0.80 volts with the throttle closed. Wide open should raise the volts to 4.0-4.9. Coming off closed to WOT should be a smooth linear rise. Not sure how to translate it too ohms like most car manuals show but I bet if you change your meter scale to a higher value, you should see the resistance change. When you say throttle by wire, are you referring to that or to throttle by cable?
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 5, 2013 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #380  
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Had it on the lowest setting and it stayed at the .3, will try other settings to make sure. I really don't have an idle issue, my prob is with the cruise. Real touchy, won't hold with both wires connected but if pull the front one then it works great except then it won't disconnect on throttle roll off, have to hit brake to disingage. Would it being bad affect this? Dealer couldn't find what was wrong but don't know if they checked it or not.
 
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