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Cat removal from 2010 UC, which method

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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 09:51 PM
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Default Cat removal from 2010 UC, which method

Question regarding cat removal on 2010 UC. I have seen two different ways that cats have been removed and was wondering which way is best. I have seen the pipe cut completely in half in the mid section of the cat, cat removed and re welded. I have also seen a bottom section cut out, cat removed and rewelded. I was wondering which is the best method for my 2010. My concern with cutting the pipe completely in half is remounting the exhaust in the original mounting holes. Is there a problem realigning the holes due to the lost space from the cut?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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Run some C16 race fuel in your bike and that cat will be gone out the tail pipe.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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So will my pistons, right!!!!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 08:45 AM
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I'm getting ready to do this very thing. I don't see how you can get all the CAT material out by cutting an access hole. I plan on cutting it in half and then having it welded. You are only cutting about a 16th of an inch of material out, just enough for the saw blade so I don't see that as a concern. I'm buying an extra head pipe just in case I screw it up or if I need warranty work.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by KCFLHTC
I'm getting ready to do this very thing. I don't see how you can get all the CAT material out by cutting an access hole. I plan on cutting it in half and then having it welded. You are only cutting about a 16th of an inch of material out, just enough for the saw blade so I don't see that as a concern. I'm buying an extra head pipe just in case I screw it up or if I need warranty work.
You can get all the cat material out by cutting a square or triangle section out of the flat section towards the tranny. Take the head pipes off the bike. Use a cut off wheel and cut out a section. Once it is open you can chisel and break up the cat material. Once the material is gone from where you cut the access hole. The rest of the material will come out easily. Then just weld the piece you cut out back into place. Being it is towards the inside and away from the heat shields. No one will know it has been done unless they really look.

David
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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Wouldn't you want to cut the access hole on the heat shield side so it wouldn't be seen?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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Save the cat head pipe (In case you have to go back to cat for some reason such as EPA Troubles) and purchase an aftermarket 2-1-2 headpipe would be the best avenue to go with.

Thorey
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by DeafUltra
Save the cat head pipe (In case you have to go back to cat for some reason such as EPA Troubles) and purchase an aftermarket 2-1-2 headpipe would be the best avenue to go with.

Thorey
I am keeping my stock pipe and buying an extra stock pipe. I cant see spending $450 on an aftermarket one when I can buy a stocker for $125. I'm sure the aftermarket one's perform better but I can spend $450 for something else. Like a PC V and a/c. I already have the Jackpot Dyno tuned slip on's.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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One thing I am confused about is Fuel Moto's Dyno charts. They show a 2010 bike with the Jackpot mufflers, a/c and PC V putting out 79.35 hp. Then another chart shows the same set up with their head pipe cranking out 79.27 hp. I don't get it. Looks like the stock head pipe performs better.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by KCFLHTC
One thing I am confused about is Fuel Moto's Dyno charts. They show a 2010 bike with the Jackpot mufflers, a/c and PC V putting out 79.35 hp. Then another chart shows the same set up with their head pipe cranking out 79.27 hp. I don't get it. Looks like the stock head pipe performs better.
i wanna see this answer
 
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