Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Handlebar Hell

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 29, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #1  
djkolp's Avatar
djkolp
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 658
Likes: 23
From: South Florida
Default Handlebar Hell

I've been a member of this forum for several years, and always appreciate the high level of knowledge and experience that many of the folks here show in their posts. I'm in need of some of that experience now. I have spent the last few days combing over all the posts related to replacing the stock handlebars on my 2010 FLHTCU with something more comfortable. It looked like a worthwhile project, so I went out today and bought the HD Touring Pullback handlebars, Diamond clutch cable, and clutch cover gasket. After completing a page or two of instructions, this project is turning into a much bigger deal than I first thought. I have a couple of questions regarding the installation of the handlebars, and I'm hoping that some of you might help be able to help.

1. While the instructions only mention removing the outer fairing and fairing cap, it looks like the only way to access the 4 screws that secure the handlebars, is to also remove the inner fairing. Do you have to remove the inner fairing completely, or can you just loosen it up a bit to get at the screws?

2. The instructions call for the removal of the exhaust system to be able to remove the clutch cover so you can replace the cable. Can you get at the screws with a special tool by just removing the heat shield, or do you have to remove the entire bloody exhaust?


3. Finally, I plan on trying to use the stock brake line. Do you have to disconnect the stock brake line from the reservoir to get it to reach, or can I just leave it connected and attach it to the new handlebars?

These questions might seem obvious to many of you, but if I could get a response from someone who has already done the work, it would help me out greatly. Thank you.

DJK
 
Reply
Old Jun 29, 2010 | 07:43 PM
  #2  
PistonPuller's Avatar
PistonPuller
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,190
Likes: 5
From: Eastern Washington
Default

1. While the instructions only mention removing the outer fairing and fairing cap, it looks like the only way to access the 4 screws that secure the handlebars, is to also remove the inner fairing. Do you have to remove the inner fairing completely, or can you just loosen it up a bit to get at the screws?

You do not need to remove the inner fairing. Remove outer, cap, and radio. It is a little bit of a pain, but can use a short allen to make it work

2. The instructions call for the removal of the exhaust system to be able to remove the clutch cover so you can replace the cable. Can you get at the screws with a special tool by just removing the heat shield, or do you have to remove the entire bloody exhaust?

No! before 09 models this was necessary. Now just loosen the shields and get a long allen (cant remember what size) and you can get to the screws


3. Finally, I plan on trying to use the stock brake line. Do you have to disconnect the stock brake line from the reservoir to get it to reach, or can I just leave it connected and attach it to the new handlebars?

No. Just un screw the reservoir along with the lever and put the whole thing on the new bars. Make sure the cap is on tight as you dont want a fluid leak
 
Reply
Old Jun 29, 2010 | 07:45 PM
  #3  
dawg's Avatar
dawg
Seasoned HDF Member
Shutterbug
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,409
Likes: 3,948
From: Vermont
Default

1) outer fairing, ignition/fairing switch cap and radio. Pull the radio and you will be able to get to all four screws. Don't have to remove inner fairing.

2) 09 and later can generally get by with removing the heat shield only to gain access to the tranny side cover. 08 and earlier requires exhaust removal.

3) You should be able to leave it, I did on mine.
 
Reply
Old Jun 29, 2010 | 07:49 PM
  #4  
Fatboy Brian's Avatar
Fatboy Brian
Grand HDF Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,230
Likes: 477
From: Southwest VA
Default

I put a set of new bars on a friends ULTRA a couple weeks ago.
1. After removing the front of fairing. I Just loosened a couple of bolts on the inner fairing. Lifted it up and back out of the way far enough to get to the 4 clamp bolts for the bars.
2. Not sure about the removing the entire exhaust to get to the clutch cover on you bike. I did on my fatboy.
3. You will not have to remove the brake line if your not changing it.

It really isn't that bad a job. Hope this helps
 
Reply
Old Jun 29, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #5  
clap's Avatar
clap
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 7
From: Bedford , Pa
Default

I went with the same bars and it helped a good bit. I had neck surgery plus I am not very tall , only 5'7" . As far as the inner fairing I did not have to remove it,just the fairing cap and the outter. Yes you do have to take the exhaust off to get the trap door off. I also replaced my brake lines with stainless braid. stock was just a little short.There was a guy that had a complete set of pic's to do the job but I can't find it, sorry. Maybe somebody will know where it is.
Dave c
 
Reply
Old Jun 29, 2010 | 08:11 PM
  #6  
Suede Blue Man's Avatar
Suede Blue Man
HDF Community Team
Veteran: Army
15 Year Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,755
Likes: 948
From: Out West
Community Team
Default

Here's some good threads on folks who've done it before us (I'm getting ready to put on a set of news bars myself). I've been reading these and the manual and these threads I think have been quite helpful. Last link is of the poly bushings, maybe your bike came with them new but I think I'll be replacing my old ones with them.


https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-compared.html

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...rs-w-pics.html

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...h-removal.html

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
 
Reply
Old Jun 29, 2010 | 08:19 PM
  #7  
IndyClassic's Avatar
IndyClassic
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 6
From: Kingman, AZ
Default

I am curious......normally the brake line is less forgiving length-wise then the clutch cable. If you are getting bars that can use same brake line do you have to replace clutch cable?

On the RKC anyway was able to carefully bend the brake line (metal portion) to follow the Wild One bar angle, did not have to take line off. Clutch cable was more then long enough as-is.
 
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 04:13 AM
  #8  
Pommy Biker's Avatar
Pommy Biker
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 138
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
Default

Try this, Ken deserves a medal for being so thorough.
http://www.kenandjudy.us/Motorcycles...new_page_1.htm
 
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 04:53 AM
  #9  
familyman's Avatar
familyman
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
From: Eastern Iowa
Default

I too took out the bolts for the inner and lifted and racked forward to get to the screws.

Also, I took the clutch cable from the hole in the inner down along the bars were the wires were.

Only thing I am having troubles with is possibly a sensor for the clutch not letting my cruise work. I am in the process of checking it out.
 
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 06:31 AM
  #10  
djkolp's Avatar
djkolp
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 658
Likes: 23
From: South Florida
Default

Thank you for all the great responses. I will try to complete the handlebar project today. I have gone back and looked over the clutch cover removal problem and have found that I can get an Allen wrench on the 2 bottom bolts without removing any part of the exhaust. That was a great relief. I should have actually tried to get an Allen wrench on it before posting the question, but after reading the Harley instruction sheet, and then looking at it, I didn't think it was possible. I won't be able to use a torque wrench on the bolts, but I can get them fairly close. I still don't know if the stock brake line is going to be long enough, but I will soon find out. The slack behind the inner fairing of both the stock brake line and clutch cable appear to be the same, so I will see if it is possible to keep both. Several people have mentioned that they routed the clutch cable underneath the fairing, and it was long enough to reach the clutch lever. I also noticed that the gentleman who provided a very nice pictorial of his handlebar installation, had an update that stated that routing the clutch cable underneath the fairing was not satisfactory. I have the longer cable and will replace it if necessary. With respect to the 2 front bolts on the handlebar clamp, it looks like I can get a short Allen wrench on them without removing the inner fairing, but the bolts might be just a bit too long to clear the bottom of the fairing. We will see. Again, thanks for all the helpful replies, and I will post the results of this project once it's done.

DJK
 

Last edited by djkolp; Jun 30, 2010 at 06:47 AM.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bbs15
Touring Models
4
Jun 12, 2012 07:27 PM
trlrdr
Powdercoat & Paint
9
Feb 2, 2011 07:21 PM
greglal
Touring Models
30
Nov 5, 2010 09:06 AM
Boom
Tri Glide, RG3 & Freewheeler Models
22
Sep 6, 2010 07:52 AM
HD Renegade
Touring Models
36
Sep 22, 2006 05:54 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:25 AM.