Starter problems 08 Ultra Classic
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,907
Likes: 3
Starter problems 08 Ultra Classic
Hey guys I have researched through the search about this and couldn’t find any information. I know there are a lot of posts on starter issues. Sorry to add to the list.
The issue I'm having is my 08 Ultra starts fine cold, never an issue. However once it is hot, I have a heck of a time. It sounds like the start motor is grinding and spinning against the motor.
My question is, do I need a new start motor, or is there something else I should be checking. If it is the starter motor, do I need to remove my true duals rear to remove the starter motor? Also, other than the battery cable and the two bolts holding the start in, is there anything else I need to remove?
Thanks
The issue I'm having is my 08 Ultra starts fine cold, never an issue. However once it is hot, I have a heck of a time. It sounds like the start motor is grinding and spinning against the motor.
My question is, do I need a new start motor, or is there something else I should be checking. If it is the starter motor, do I need to remove my true duals rear to remove the starter motor? Also, other than the battery cable and the two bolts holding the start in, is there anything else I need to remove?
Thanks
Account Retired
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,245
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From: Here
Will this help?
STARTER 5.2
STARTER 5.2
GENERAL
The starter is made up of a field coil assembly, solenoid
assembly and drive assembly.The repair instructions contained
in this section are divided into three major service areas
accordingly.
assembly and drive assembly.The repair instructions contained
in this section are divided into three major service areas
accordingly.
NOTE
For troubleshooting and diagnostic information, see the
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTIC MANUAL for this motorcycle.
For troubleshooting and diagnostic information, see the
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTIC MANUAL for this motorcycle.
Wiring Diagrams
The starting circuit wiring diagram contains information about
wiring configuration. For additional information, see the
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTIC MANUAL for this motorcycle.
wiring configuration. For additional information, see the
ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTIC MANUAL for this motorcycle.
REMOVAL
1. Remove seat. See
2.26 SEAT.
To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause
death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery
cable before proceeding. (00048a)
death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery
cable before proceeding. (00048a)
2. Unthread bolt and remove battery negative cable (black)
from battery negative (-) terminal.
3. Remove starter front and rear mounting screws with captive
washers.
4. Remove Keps nut from stud of bracket tab and remove
exhaust support bracket.
5. Pull back rubber boot and remove hex nut from battery
post. Remove battery positive and main power cable ring
terminals.
6. Remove starter solenoid connector [128] at front of starter.
7. Remove engine oil filler cap/dipstick. Cover fill spout with
clean shop cloth to keep out dirt and debris.
from battery negative (-) terminal.
3. Remove starter front and rear mounting screws with captive
washers.
4. Remove Keps nut from stud of bracket tab and remove
exhaust support bracket.
5. Pull back rubber boot and remove hex nut from battery
post. Remove battery positive and main power cable ring
terminals.
6. Remove starter solenoid connector [128] at front of starter.
7. Remove engine oil filler cap/dipstick. Cover fill spout with
clean shop cloth to keep out dirt and debris.
NOTE
To facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove two worm
drive clamps to release heat shield from rear header pipe.
To facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove two worm
drive clamps to release heat shield from rear header pipe.
8. Remove starter from motorcycle carefully sliding it out
through space between rear exhaust header pipe and side
cover. Exercise caution to avoid losing two ring dowels
loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter)
flange.
through space between rear exhaust header pipe and side
cover. Exercise caution to avoid losing two ring dowels
loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter)
flange.
INSTALLATION
1. Verify that two ring dowels are installed in the primary
chaincase (or starter) flange.
2. Lubricate o-ring on starter and bore of primary chaincase
with light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant.
3. Carefully slide starter in through space between rear
exhaust header pipe and side cover. With starter solenoid
connector at front, move starter into its installed position.
4. Remove shop cloth over fill spout and install engine oil
filler cap/dipstick at top of transmission case.
5. Install slot of exhaust support bracket onto stud of bracket
tab aligning other holes with those in starter flange. Start
Keps nut on stud.
6. Engaging hole in exhaust support bracket, install starter
front mounting screw with captive washer. Install starter
rear mounting screw with captive washer.
7. Alternately tighten starter front and rear mounting screws
to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm).
8. Tighten Keps nut on stud of bracket tab to 12-15 ftlbs
(16.3-20.3 Nm).
9. Install main power and battery positive cable ring terminals
onto battery post. Install hex nut and tighten to 70-90
chaincase (or starter) flange.
2. Lubricate o-ring on starter and bore of primary chaincase
with light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant.
3. Carefully slide starter in through space between rear
exhaust header pipe and side cover. With starter solenoid
connector at front, move starter into its installed position.
4. Remove shop cloth over fill spout and install engine oil
filler cap/dipstick at top of transmission case.
5. Install slot of exhaust support bracket onto stud of bracket
tab aligning other holes with those in starter flange. Start
Keps nut on stud.
6. Engaging hole in exhaust support bracket, install starter
front mounting screw with captive washer. Install starter
rear mounting screw with captive washer.
7. Alternately tighten starter front and rear mounting screws
to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm).
8. Tighten Keps nut on stud of bracket tab to 12-15 ftlbs
(16.3-20.3 Nm).
9. Install main power and battery positive cable ring terminals
onto battery post. Install hex nut and tighten to 70-90
inlbs
(7.9-10.2 Nm). Pull down rubber boot over terminal
connections.
10. Install starter solenoid connector [128] at front of starter.
connections.
10. Install starter solenoid connector [128] at front of starter.
NOTE
If removed, install three worm drive clamps to secure heat
shield to rear header pipe. Tighten clamp screws to 20-40
If removed, install three worm drive clamps to secure heat
shield to rear header pipe. Tighten clamp screws to 20-40
inlbs
(2.3-4.5 Nm).
11. Insert bolt through battery negative cable (black) into
threaded hole of battery negative (-) terminal. Tighten bolt
to 60-96
threaded hole of battery negative (-) terminal. Tighten bolt
to 60-96
in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm).
12. Install seat. See 2.26 SEAT.
12. Install seat. See 2.26 SEAT.
TESTING
Armature
Armature
1. Remove armature and brush holder from field coil. See
5.2 STARTER, Field Coil Assembly
.
2. Place armature in lathe or truing stand and check runout
of commutator. Commutators with more than 0.015
in. (0.38 mm) of runout should be replaced or machined
on a lathe. Commutators should be replaced when diameter
is less than 1.141 in. (29.98 mm).
3. Check depth of mica on commutator. If undercut is less
than 0.008 in. (0.20 mm), use an undercutting machine
to undercut the mica to 1/32 in. (0.79 mm) deep.The slots
should then be cleaned to remove any dirt or copper dust.
2. Place armature in lathe or truing stand and check runout
of commutator. Commutators with more than 0.015
in. (0.38 mm) of runout should be replaced or machined
on a lathe. Commutators should be replaced when diameter
is less than 1.141 in. (29.98 mm).
3. Check depth of mica on commutator. If undercut is less
than 0.008 in. (0.20 mm), use an undercutting machine
to undercut the mica to 1/32 in. (0.79 mm) deep.The slots
should then be cleaned to remove any dirt or copper dust.
NOTES
See Figure 5-2. If an undercutting machine is not available,
undercutting can be done satisfactorily using a thin
hacksaw blade. After undercutting, lightly sand the armature
with crocus cloth to remove any burrs.
undercutting can be done satisfactorily using a thin
hacksaw blade. After undercutting, lightly sand the armature
with crocus cloth to remove any burrs.
Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth on commutator.The
abrasive grit may remain on commutator segments and
could cause excessive brush wear.
abrasive grit may remain on commutator segments and
could cause excessive brush wear.
4. See
Figure 5-3. Check for a SHORTED ARMATURE.
a. Place armature on growler (1).
b. Hold a thin steel strip (2) (hacksaw blade), against
the armature core and slowly turn armature.
c. A shorted armature will cause the steel strip to vibrate
and be attracted to the core. Replace the armature if
shorted.
a. Place armature on growler (1).
b. Hold a thin steel strip (2) (hacksaw blade), against
the armature core and slowly turn armature.
c. A shorted armature will cause the steel strip to vibrate
and be attracted to the core. Replace the armature if
shorted.
2008 Touring Service: Starter
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,932
Likes: 4
From: 46th State, USA
The starter on my '09 Ultra Classic just bit the dust so to speak. It will only engage the ring gear and start when the engine is cold. Let it heat up in these extreme summer conditions and no starting until it cools down.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,413
Likes: 17
From: eastern oklahoma
and that's why when you do any motor work it's best to install the screamin eagle compensator and if you've got the heads off, then it's time for the mechanical compression releases. it's just the nature of the beast. hey there neighbor in idabel oklahoma.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,012
Likes: 298
From: Central Fl
I just ordered a set of SE heads w mechanical cr. Was told by the dealership that did the Big Bore 103 install there would be no problem. For about a year that was true. Replaced starter clutch last week. Sounds better but I can tell more issues are coming. Rather than spend the next several yrs fighting a loosing battle I opted for the new heads. Plus the extra HP and torque will be appreciated.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,134
Likes: 4
From: Third Coast, South Texas
Trending Topics
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,932
Likes: 4
From: 46th State, USA
Hey there neighbor in Eastern oklahoma. What's cookin', except the weather?
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
Hey, Welcome to the Forums- kudos for digging up an old thread.
there are a number of reasons for a "starter problem"- so to find a cure the fault has to be narrowed down.
see if any of this makes sense:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...mmon-post.html
Mike
there are a number of reasons for a "starter problem"- so to find a cure the fault has to be narrowed down.
see if any of this makes sense:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...mmon-post.html
Mike
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