Looking for opinions on pushrods ..."adjustable -v- non-adjustable"?
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Florida
Looking for opinions on pushrods ..."adjustable -v- non-adjustable"?
I'm doing my research, trying to get my "ducks in a row" to swap in a set of cams (Woods 6-6) this winter on my 2010 Street Glide (96"). I'm looking for opinions from those that have done cam swaps, or tear downs/re-builds.
So ...If I use adjustable pushrods, the "pros" are I don't have to remove the tank and rocker covers to do a cam swap. Not sure how much work there is to removing the tank and rocker boxes? Plus gasket kits and stuff. Extra cost? However, I'm sure its not work I can't handle. The "cons" in my mind with the adjustable pushrods is, will they "stay adjusted", or might they loosen-up over time jepardizing the valve train? Also ...are the adjustable pushrods heavier than the non-adjustable pushrods, possibly robbing the valvetrain the ability to rev as fast as the non-adjustable rods? And lastly, although it seems easy enough to "set-up" the adjustable pushrods to "zero-lash" ...is there room for error on the initial set-up?
If I use "non-adjustable" pushrods, yeah I have to remove the tank and the rocker covers. But I can sleep at night knowing the intial set-up on pushrod length (no adjustments required) is "spot-on". And I dont have to worry about the adjustable rods "working loose" over time.
So, the question is ..."Is it best to do the extra work for the solid pushrods, or should I just do the adjustable pushrods for the cam swap"?
Another question ...any opinions on running the 1.725 rockers over the stock 1.65. Anyone running these on a 96" with stock pistons? Are there any valve to piston clearance issues? What about the SE roller tappets? Should I drop a set of those in too? I'm guessing the stock tappets are already rollers? Should I upgrade rockers and tappets while I'm in there, or are the stock componets cool? If so, is there a superior pushrod out there (Titainum maybe?) that I should be looking at, or should I just stick with the Screaming Eagle valvetrain parts?
Thanks!
So ...If I use adjustable pushrods, the "pros" are I don't have to remove the tank and rocker covers to do a cam swap. Not sure how much work there is to removing the tank and rocker boxes? Plus gasket kits and stuff. Extra cost? However, I'm sure its not work I can't handle. The "cons" in my mind with the adjustable pushrods is, will they "stay adjusted", or might they loosen-up over time jepardizing the valve train? Also ...are the adjustable pushrods heavier than the non-adjustable pushrods, possibly robbing the valvetrain the ability to rev as fast as the non-adjustable rods? And lastly, although it seems easy enough to "set-up" the adjustable pushrods to "zero-lash" ...is there room for error on the initial set-up?
If I use "non-adjustable" pushrods, yeah I have to remove the tank and the rocker covers. But I can sleep at night knowing the intial set-up on pushrod length (no adjustments required) is "spot-on". And I dont have to worry about the adjustable rods "working loose" over time.
So, the question is ..."Is it best to do the extra work for the solid pushrods, or should I just do the adjustable pushrods for the cam swap"?
Another question ...any opinions on running the 1.725 rockers over the stock 1.65. Anyone running these on a 96" with stock pistons? Are there any valve to piston clearance issues? What about the SE roller tappets? Should I drop a set of those in too? I'm guessing the stock tappets are already rollers? Should I upgrade rockers and tappets while I'm in there, or are the stock componets cool? If so, is there a superior pushrod out there (Titainum maybe?) that I should be looking at, or should I just stick with the Screaming Eagle valvetrain parts?
Thanks!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,961
Likes: 263
From: Conroe Texas
I would just get the adjustables and be done with it. I have never read of anyone having problems with rockers and tappets, save the money and get the S&S 106 BB ($568) to go with the cams and send heads to BigBoyz for a street port ($400). You will have a great running powerful motor. Get a good tune and your set.
http://www.sscycle.com/feature/featureview.php?s_id=12
http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/showthread.php?t=89
http://www.sscycle.com/feature/featureview.php?s_id=12
http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/showthread.php?t=89
Last edited by masterblaster; Jul 14, 2010 at 06:34 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 6,066
Likes: 1,282
From: OH, USA
Having used adjustables on my Panhead and my stroker shovels, I would stick with the stock. One less thing to worry about. Everytime you hear a noise you'll be pulling the pushrod tubes open to check them.. If I go with cams on my bike I'll take the extra time to lift the tank and remove the rocker boxes.
Thats my 2 cents...
Thats my 2 cents...
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 218
Likes: 1
From: saginaw michigan
Having used adjustables on my Panhead and my stroker shovels, I would stick with the stock. One less thing to worry about. Everytime you hear a noise you'll be pulling the pushrod tubes open to check them.. If I go with cams on my bike I'll take the extra time to lift the tank and remove the rocker boxes.
Thats my 2 cents...
Thats my 2 cents...
What he said, except I have never owned a Panhead.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 114
From: Jackson, Ohio
Removing the tank should be the least of your concerns; snap off the fuel line, unplug the harness and pull off the overflow tube and it's off with four bolts. Takes less than two minutes.
If you are not going to a high lift cam, reuse all your stock stuff but do yourself a favor and get the Baisley oil spring for your oil pump. Change it out while you have the cam cover off. Only takes 5 extra minutes while you are in there.
If you are not going to a high lift cam, reuse all your stock stuff but do yourself a favor and get the Baisley oil spring for your oil pump. Change it out while you have the cam cover off. Only takes 5 extra minutes while you are in there.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 95
From: lancaster, pa
just to share im bolting on the 255 cams and reusing stock pushrods..this fall.reading posts like this getting my ducks lined up.doing it myself.hardest part is going to know where to stop with details im finding out....adjust the squash? oil spring? porting? true duals? trying to weigh it all out.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 4
From: Here
Never a bad idea to replace the lifters, but might not be necessary depending on mileage. If you do decide to go with the adjustable pushrods (which is what I would do), go with the Smith Brothers quick install. They are top notch pushrods and you won't (shouldn't) have a single issue with them.
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 2
From: iowa
I have the Woods TW6-6 cams in my 2010 Ultra. I installed it myself along with the Screaming Eagle adjustable pushrods, so far I have 2100 miles on them and have no problems what so ever. I also installed a PCV, Fuel Moto's 2-1-2 head pipe, V&H ovals, S.E. Ventilator intake and the Baisley oil pump spring (15% I believe). The only issue I can report is oil blowing up into my air cleaner. I removed the spring and have no probs since.( It runs awesome)
As for the worry about adjusting the pushrods I say it is a wash. You are going to do the same adjustment with the stock rods, only it will be done in the heads. I did my whole cam job( in about 8 hours, I am sure many could do it faster but this was my first time tearing into the HD motor. I would guess another 2 hours (at least) if I had to tear the heads open. Just my 2 cents worth.
As for the worry about adjusting the pushrods I say it is a wash. You are going to do the same adjustment with the stock rods, only it will be done in the heads. I did my whole cam job( in about 8 hours, I am sure many could do it faster but this was my first time tearing into the HD motor. I would guess another 2 hours (at least) if I had to tear the heads open. Just my 2 cents worth.
