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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #181  
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highmarket
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Originally Posted by iclick
I guess this is another maintenance item, like changing the fluids, to be done every 30k or so. Great. I'm at 50k now, so I guess I need to start listening.

Well,,,, at least the shops should be very good at replacing this bearing, should get very competitive in this market!!!
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #182  
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It's not the bearing folks!
It just happens to be the sacrificial lamb in the system.
They still use the same one on today's bikes with no problems (at least far fewer).
It's something miss-aligned or some harmonic imbalance?
I just wish the MOCo would fess up and let us know what it is so we can fix the problem and not the consequence!
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 09:03 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by Scorpion07
It's not the bearing folks!
It just happens to be the sacrificial lamb in the system.
They still use the same one on today's bikes with no problems (at least far fewer).
It's something miss-aligned or some harmonic imbalance?
I just wish the MOCo would fess up and let us know what it is so we can fix the problem and not the consequence!
This things got me a little baffled, the bearing to me looks like a pretty good design, if the bore is off, there really is no chance for any good bearing lasting, differential load/ alignment will take out any good bearing, what`s crazy is it will last close to 10,000 miles after discovery of a growling or vibration, it`s great news that no one has been stranded, I will say there is a lot of things going on in this design, looking at the cross section, needle bearings on input shaft, inter primary bearing, main shaft bearing and primary sprocket belt loads, my question is, really, what is different from the old 5 speed, I`ve seen some people completely trash that trans with over 100,000 miles with zero issues, now in 2007, we have an added maintenance issue???
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 03:08 AM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by iclick
I guess this is another maintenance item, like changing the fluids, to be done every 30k or so. Great. I'm at 50k now, so I guess I need to start listening.
yeah, the tell tail sign on my three have been after the bike is good and warm. shut it down and push it backwards and it will growl if bearing is needing replacement. I have to push mine backwards into the garage to park it so the last 6+ rides now it had made this noise so it is pretty much confirmed as the noise is exactly like it was when I had the other two replaced.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 03:12 AM
  #185  
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Interesting in that the Indy shop that is doing my ESP repair has two of these HD bearings in stock.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 06:47 AM
  #186  
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Add me to the list, my 08 Ultra started making noise at 46k miles. When it was rolled backwards while hot and not running I could hear the clicking sound. I had already changed the inner primary bearing at 42k miles but when I broke it down to change the trans mainshaft bearing the race for the IPB was already starting to discolor where the bearing rides so I replaced the race again. The retaining clip is in the correct position so the IPB is getting plenty of oil.
 

Last edited by Cooper08; Nov 17, 2011 at 07:08 AM.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 03:58 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by highmarket
This things got me a little baffled, the bearing to me looks like a pretty good design, if the bore is off, there really is no chance for any good bearing lasting, differential load/ alignment will take out any good bearing, what`s crazy is it will last close to 10,000 miles after discovery of a growling or vibration, it`s great news that no one has been stranded, I will say there is a lot of things going on in this design, looking at the cross section, needle bearings on input shaft, inter primary bearing, main shaft bearing and primary sprocket belt loads, my question is, really, what is different from the old 5 speed, I`ve seen some people completely trash that trans with over 100,000 miles with zero issues, now in 2007, we have an added maintenance issue???
I put 106k on my Evo RK 5-speed with no tranny issues at all. Now with the new-and- improved 6-speed we may be spending big bucks every few years to nurse an inherent engineering flaw. Doesn't make sense. A local indy said he'd done "quite a few" replacements of the #8967 bearing and that in every one the problem was the plastic retainer coming apart. For that reason I doubt its design virtue, although I guess maybe over the years the material may have changed. We can only hope, but if it has I would think the part # would change, like to 8967a.

Both the indy and a tech at my dealership told me they haven't had any repeats on that failure, but some have been reported here, so it happens.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 04:03 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by dgretz
yeah, the tell tail sign on my three have been after the bike is good and warm. shut it down and push it backwards and it will growl if bearing is needing replacement. I have to push mine backwards into the garage to park it so the last 6+ rides now it had made this noise so it is pretty much confirmed as the noise is exactly like it was when I had the other two replaced.
What's the bill look like on one of these repairs? My first was in warranty, but they had the whole dadgum tranny and primary in pieces, so it can't be a cheap repair. I doubt if I have the tools to DIY, but if I did it would be tempting considering the cost savings. Any special tools involved?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 05:33 PM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by iclick
What's the bill look like on one of these repairs? My first was in warranty, but they had the whole dadgum tranny and primary in pieces, so it can't be a cheap repair. I doubt if I have the tools to DIY, but if I did it would be tempting considering the cost savings. Any special tools involved?
I didnt need any special tools. IPB changed out for the Baker so no tool there. Pressing the main shaft was 5/8 all thread and some big *** washers to span the trans case.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 09:03 PM
  #190  
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Iclick, over $800 from the dealer or $120 DIY, and that includes a new MDG assy.
Soft 02 is right on, but you'll also need a front pulley tool to get the pulley off.
Really straight forward DIY.
I'm almost positive the misalignment is the Inner primary cover, and in turn the IPB or the MDG Bearing pay the price. The trap door bearing seems bulletproof for some reason?
 

Last edited by Scorpion07; Nov 17, 2011 at 09:05 PM.
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