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Se 120r complete engine?

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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 10:41 AM
  #381  
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Finally got her home yesterday after rebuild & some final dyno tuning. Was able to put down some miles before the rain showed up and all I can say is WOW! Smooth as glass & very quick! Accidentally pulled the front wheel in 3rd while passing a cager on a side street, gonna take a while to get used to this beastie! Hmmm, now maybe add a turbo in the spring...
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 01:36 PM
  #382  
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Originally Posted by Exduane
Finally got her home yesterday after rebuild & some final dyno tuning. Was able to put down some miles before the rain showed up and all I can say is WOW! Smooth as glass & very quick! Accidentally pulled the front wheel in 3rd while passing a cager on a side street, gonna take a while to get used to this beastie! Hmmm, now maybe add a turbo in the spring...

LOL, I haven't cranked on mine that hard yet, but a couple of times I let the clutch out like I was used to doing with the stock motor. Which is not good on the rear tire. I tends to leave behind a nice little strip of rubber.

Looks like something is holding back your tune, any ideas? It flattens out like it hit a ceilling. Do you think it's the propipe?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 06:22 AM
  #383  
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Originally Posted by hydrolock43
I just finished installing one in my 2010 Roadglide and Saturday took it out. Member Strokerjlk helped me with software and tunning he was a big help on this. Mine was the crate 120R so i could keep the whole 96. The stock map in the software is very lean so all i did was fire the bike up with it. Once i got a map in it that was richened up it runs great. The 800+pound bagger does not feel like 800 lbs anymore. That engine kicks *** i am happy as hell. Not bad at all at low speeds in town but the motor just wants to rip something apart when you twist the grip. SE has the rev limiter set to 6600 in the software . If you do the install yourself you will need to modify a couple 1/4 inch allen wrench's for the throttle body to install and torque the mounting screws and i welded a 1/2 socket to a crows foot to torque the transmission to engine mounting bolts as all i had was an open end crows foot in that size and wanted a better fit than an open end would give. The primary locking tool does not work when putting the SE clutch on you have to put the bike in high gear and stand on the brake to torque the mainshaft nut. When you torque the compensator you hold the crankshaft with a 1 3/4 inch open end wrench to torque the compensator bolt.
glad it is running good now. get her over to Bean for a good tune.
might want to stock up on rear tires. LOL
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 06:28 AM
  #384  
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Originally Posted by itsaw0rkinpr0gre$$
LOL, I haven't cranked on mine that hard yet, but a couple of times I let the clutch out like I was used to doing with the stock motor. Which is not good on the rear tire. I tends to leave behind a nice little strip of rubber.

Looks like something is holding back your tune, any ideas? It flattens out like it hit a ceilling. Do you think it's the propipe?

T-max ECM
If I were to guess? timing. then AFR would need address again.
JMO from the armchair.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 07:05 AM
  #385  
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Originally Posted by strokerjlk
glad it is running good now. get her over to Bean for a good tune.
might want to stock up on rear tires. LOL
Jim did you check out the wrist pin bushing? Was going ton order the Boarzilla vs. the FatCat i have on there now before Going to Bean Think that is a good idea?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 07:47 AM
  #386  
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Exduane......Why speed in mph across the bottom rather than rpms? I think rpms would be more useful....
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 11:57 AM
  #387  
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Originally Posted by bluegrassboy
Exduane......Why speed in mph across the bottom rather than rpms? I think rpms would be more useful....

You are absolutely right! Just spoke with my tune guy & he is sending me a "normal" printout with rpm's listed. Will post it when I get it.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 06:02 PM
  #388  
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Originally Posted by hydrolock43
Jim did you check out the wrist pin bushing? Was going ton order the Boarzilla vs. the FatCat i have on there now before Going to Bean Think that is a good idea?
no I didnt pull the clys yet. I have the heads off and have lifted the clys up and looked at the crank and rods. they are screaming eagle rods. and they dont have the tappered end. will see what they look like when I put the new base gaskets on ,when I get the heads back.
yes put the zilla on before you tune.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #389  
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Wow there's a lot of Pages here and a lot of replys.
Got a motor making a noise. Gonna have to make some decesions on what to do.

I need some help.
Will the owners of the 120R's tell me where you got your 120R motor at the best price and if you stayed with the 50mm TB or went with the 58MM TB and which clutch you went with. And how hard it is to pull.
Did you make any changes to the motor or heads.
Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #390  
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Originally Posted by cardboard
Wow there's a lot of Pages here and a lot of replys.
Got a motor making a noise. Gonna have to make some decesions on what to do.

I need some help.
Will the owners of the 120R's tell me where you got your 120R motor at the best price and if you stayed with the 50mm TB or went with the 58MM TB and which clutch you went with. And how hard it is to pull.
Did you make any changes to the motor or heads.
Thanks for the help.
I had the Kit versus the Crate installed which comes with the 58mm TB. The clutch is the Screamin Eagle Pro Race Clutch, stiff as hell and would not recommend it for most people. I like the clutch, but have a very healthy grip.

The only changes/upgrades were the SE roller rockers.
 
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