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I've got about 2000 miles on the SE120R now. Here's some thoughts.
The automatic compression releases are great, bike is easy start almost every time. It doesn't like extreme cold starts, below 15*C. It hasn't failed to start, but takes a little more cranking to get her to fire up. Think I'll have the tuner check it out for that.
General around town driving takes time to adjust to the screaming eagle race clutch. It takes time to adjust to the hard pull and the available torque requires retraining of your autopilot clutch skills.
This motor will go through rear tires if you do not have the will power to stay out of the throttle. It is far too easy to light up the rear tire.
Fuel milage varies greatly between 35 and 45 mpg. The SE120R begs you to roll on that throttle. When you do and trust me you will it drinks gas like an elephant drinks water. However, when you ride like a sane person keeping the highway speeds under 70mph it'll get 40-45mpg.
Gear ratios, wow this thing definately gives you another gear. 6th isn't needed below 60 ever. It'll sure change your shifting habits or at least for most it will.
The powerband is pushed a little to the right for most, but even on the low end of the RPMs this thing is a beast and can handle any situation you demand of it. It just creates lots of power really fast which takes getting used to. This motor is fast, it is not a slow power developer. My streetglide hits 120mph like it was nothing and feels like it has a whole lot more. I find myself watching the speedo more because it does like speed. You'll find yourself strolling along the highway at 90mph and swear you were only doing 60mph.
It's a wonderful powerplant so far, but I'll reserve my final impressions until I get it out this summer for a long touring ride across America. The longer touring rides I believe will show its true colors for my purposes. Hope that helps give you your SE120R fix. My suggestion for now is, get one you'll love it.
That pretty much is what i would say about mine. Really throws my Roadglide around. What was once an underpowered touring bike is now rather dangerous for my passenger and i. Lots of fun would not be happy with less now. Got a map to run it on from a forum member the one in the SE software was very lean did not sound good at all when i started it. I'll get it tuned in the spring but runs great right now. The rev limiter is set at 6600 in the SE software for the 120 map i turned it down to 6200 till i get to the tuner.
WHAT IS BEST PRICE kit vs complete motor? are any dealers offering 20%off? Thanks
I got the crate and put it in myself. Now i still have the whole complete 96'' that still runs. If you get the kit they either machine your stock cases which by the way do not have the new style locking screws that they just changed that locks the crank main bearing in the cases on the cam chest side. You will now have a bunch of 96'' or whatever size engine parts that need cases laying around unless you purchase crankcases with the engine kit which means 600+ more for the kit. They quoted me just under 8K for kit and install. You still need SE race clutch,58mm throttle body,hi flow injectors,Heavy breather intake,acr harness and hopefully you have the 469.00 SEPST already. I got all the parts and the crate motor for 5,312.00 not including the SEPST i already had that. And of course a couple gaskets and some oil plus had to have the Boarzlilla from D&D. You get the SE compensator in the crate with the new engine and a couple days after the engine came in they called me up to give me a title for the new engine numbers from HD,which has in big bold letters that any vehical that has this engine installed will not be registered for use on a public way. So the title will never go to the registry nor will it get shown to any law official for that matter, i will just carry the sales recipt from my local dealership for the engine and parts with my registration. I have all the part numbers for what is needed for the install and also know a few dealerships that will do the 20 percent off if anyone needs this.
If this is not true, post your proof stating otherwise, don't just make a comment and leave it hanging. My old man's got a 120" that he bought in Palatine IL, and he was told from the word go that there is no warranty on this engine. So show me how I'm wrong or don't make "trolling statements".
If this is not true, post your proof stating otherwise, don't just make a comment and leave it hanging. My old man's got a 120" that he bought in Palatine IL, and he was told from the word go that there is no warranty on this engine. So show me how I'm wrong or don't make "trolling statements".
Now warranty stated in the SE catalog. I bought the crate motor and they followed me out the door saying no warranty and bye bye warranty on my new 2010 RGC and you know what don't care. They would assemble the kit motor start it with a download and make you sign a waiver before they dyno'd it in case it crapped. No warranty at my local dealership and if one was offered somewhere it would be 30 days i'm sure. Even if they offered a one year warranty if they installed it i still would have done it myself for 0 warranty.
Now warranty stated in the SE catalog. I bought the crate motor and they followed me out the door saying no warranty and bye bye warranty on my new 2010 RGC and you know what don't care. They would assemble the kit motor start it with a download and make you sign a waiver before they dyno'd it in case it crapped. No warranty at my local dealership and if one was offered somewhere it would be 30 days i'm sure. Even if they offered a one year warranty if they installed it i still would have done it myself for 0 warranty.
If you buy the SE 110cu motor. They will give you like a 30 day warranty. And they put this in their most expensive bike they make.
Only the new bikes come with a warranty. Git used to it.
Harley ain't into warrantying a motor that big. Most builders won't give you a warranty either.
There was a question raised by another builder (WVUltra).
he discovered that the Rod length was stamped 7.575 on the connecting rod of the 4 5/8 SE crank. it has been stated by myself and some others that the SE 4 5/8 crank had 7.667 (stock lenght rods). so upon his discovery, and Ron Dickey (Axtell) wanting to know for sure,for his R&D. I tore the 120 R back apart to take another look and make sure. indeed WVUltra was right on here. the rods are indeed 7.575.
I just took a quick glance at the rods ,when I seen the 7 and 6's,that are in the part number I just assumed it was 7.667. shame on me for not looking closer.
There was a question raised by another builder (WVUltra).
he discovered that the Rod length was stamped 7.575 on the connecting rod of the 4 5/8 SE crank. it has been stated by myself and some others that the SE 4 5/8 crank had 7.667 (stock lenght rods). so upon his discovery, and Ron Dickey (Axtell) wanting to know for sure,for his R&D. I tore the 120 R back apart to take another look and make sure. indeed WVUltra was right on here. the rods are indeed 7.575.
I just took a quick glance at the rods ,when I seen the 7 and 6's,that are in the part number I just assumed it was 7.667. shame on me for not looking closer.
Jim would that be a positive or negative factor? Also, do you think the pistons are apt to have a short life in that engine not much of a skirt?
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