LED Headlights
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,961
Likes: 263
From: Conroe Texas
Been riding home from work last two weeks at night through Miami traffic and some back roads along the Everglades ( pitch black except for the allagator eyes on the side of the road), these lights are the best $ I spent on the bike so far and I have spent much dinero on my bikes. Next up is the truck light for the 7" ebay light I bought for the Dyna.
Its been in the 80's the last 5 days, had a cold snap early last week it went down to the 60's.
Its been in the 80's the last 5 days, had a cold snap early last week it went down to the 60's.
Last edited by masterblaster; Feb 1, 2011 at 09:40 PM.
Tourer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, Texas
I understand. The LEDs are much whiter. They also want an extra $100 for the LED bulbs....
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Central Illinois
I know the proper way and the HD instruction way is to wire the passing lamps to be on with the headlight but switch off when you go to the brights. Can any one offer some detail on how to wire it so the passing lamps stay on when you go to bright and when you are running dim? I would especially love to see pics of the wiring if you have them. This will be on a 2010 SG with the lamp brackets. Sorry bout the bad grammar all from iPhone
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 248
Likes: 4
From: Fort Worth, Texas
I know the proper way and the HD instruction way is to wire the passing lamps to be on with the headlight but switch off when you go to the brights. Can any one offer some detail on how to wire it so the passing lamps stay on when you go to bright and when you are running dim? I would especially love to see pics of the wiring if you have them. This will be on a 2010 SG with the lamp brackets. Sorry bout the bad grammar all from iPhone
What the ‘Factory Wiring’ diagram above doesn’t show is the yellow wire coming from the headlight circuit passes thru a
multi-connector behind the fairing cap (the small portion of the fairing that has the dash switches installed), just below the
accessories switch, before going to the passing lamp switch.
See diagrams on next page.
When low beam is on, the yellow wire is energized, passing power to the passing lamp switch/lamps. When high beam is
switched on the yellow wire de-energizes, turning off the passing lamps as well as the low beam.
To have the passing lamps stay on with the high beam, it is necessary to replace the power source from the yellow low
beam circuit with a power source that is always on with the ignition.
Two ways to do this:
1) First is illustrated in the diagrams above. Disassemble the fairing cap (requires the removal of the ignition switch). Cut
the yellow wire leading to the passing lamp switch and splice into the inbound power source to the accessories switch (the
orange/red wire). To avoid a short - make sure to insulate the cut end of the yellow wire coming from the multi-connector
– this will be hot whenever the low beam is on. Reassemble.
2) Remove the outer fairing. Find the multi-connector behind the fairing cap and disconnect. Using the proper technique,
remove the yellow wire and pin from the connector. For easier access to the connector, carefully fish the wiring harness
through to the front of the bike. To avoid a short – insulate the wire end/pin just removed – this will be hot whenever the
low beam is on. Put a replacement male pin on one end of a length of wire and insert into the slot the yellow wire was
removed from. On the other end of the wire, put a spade terminal. This spade terminal will be connected to the spade
terminal on the orange/white wire that is alongside the headlight socket/wires. The orange/white wire is always hot when
the ignition is on, so the passing lamp switch will always be energized. Reconnect the multi-connector, re-fishing the
harness if necessary. Reassemble the outer fairing.
NOTE: either method will energize the passing lamp switch whenever the ignition is in the ‘On’ –OR– ‘Accessories’
position. To save the battery – be sure to turn the passing lamp dash switch off whenever using the ‘Accessories’ position for any length of time.
multi-connector behind the fairing cap (the small portion of the fairing that has the dash switches installed), just below the
accessories switch, before going to the passing lamp switch.
See diagrams on next page.
When low beam is on, the yellow wire is energized, passing power to the passing lamp switch/lamps. When high beam is
switched on the yellow wire de-energizes, turning off the passing lamps as well as the low beam.
To have the passing lamps stay on with the high beam, it is necessary to replace the power source from the yellow low
beam circuit with a power source that is always on with the ignition.
Two ways to do this:
1) First is illustrated in the diagrams above. Disassemble the fairing cap (requires the removal of the ignition switch). Cut
the yellow wire leading to the passing lamp switch and splice into the inbound power source to the accessories switch (the
orange/red wire). To avoid a short - make sure to insulate the cut end of the yellow wire coming from the multi-connector
– this will be hot whenever the low beam is on. Reassemble.
2) Remove the outer fairing. Find the multi-connector behind the fairing cap and disconnect. Using the proper technique,
remove the yellow wire and pin from the connector. For easier access to the connector, carefully fish the wiring harness
through to the front of the bike. To avoid a short – insulate the wire end/pin just removed – this will be hot whenever the
low beam is on. Put a replacement male pin on one end of a length of wire and insert into the slot the yellow wire was
removed from. On the other end of the wire, put a spade terminal. This spade terminal will be connected to the spade
terminal on the orange/white wire that is alongside the headlight socket/wires. The orange/white wire is always hot when
the ignition is on, so the passing lamp switch will always be energized. Reconnect the multi-connector, re-fishing the
harness if necessary. Reassemble the outer fairing.
NOTE: either method will energize the passing lamp switch whenever the ignition is in the ‘On’ –OR– ‘Accessories’
position. To save the battery – be sure to turn the passing lamp dash switch off whenever using the ‘Accessories’ position for any length of time.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,368
Likes: 14
From: Yokohama
I've had these lights for a couple months now and am very happy with them. They cast a wide, deep and bright spread of light even on low beam but don't bother oncoming traffic.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jj3qLJozbs4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jj3qLJozbs4
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 590
Likes: 3
From: NH
Somebody please help me out here, lol. I just looked up the part # for these light for an 09 RKC and they want $525.00 for these LED's, is that correct? If it is is there anything less expensive with the same results? Thanks for any help....
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 6
From: Livingston, Texas
Don't know if it will work in a Road King, but look at Post #64
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,368
Likes: 14
From: Yokohama
If you buy from a place like Zanotti you'll get 20 percent off.