1999 FLHTCi Charging system question
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2008
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1999 FLHTCi Charging system question
Well, I observed something not seen before.
Last Saturday, I installed the pigtail to the battery for a Gerbings vest.
I am pretty good about tightening the terminals, and don't think this is the issue.
Ran the bike ~800 miles at Highway speeds, using the heated vest (why I didn't years back I wondered, but that's another post), no issues observed.
This morning, I'm riding in to work, radio and vest on. I get into bumper to bumper traffic, and eventually I notice the voltmeter is down around 10. As soon as the RPMs increase to ~2K, the voltmeter is back around 14. Drops at idle, then back up at 2k. I notice a slight change in the brightness of the dash lights as well; couldn't tell for sure if the headlight was doing the same but I believe it was.
I switch off the vest, and it makes no difference. Switch off the radio, no difference.
So, I have downloaded the test procedure for the stator & alternator, but have not done the tests yet. New battery was installed in July.
Based on these observations, does the heated vest draw that much juice? I see the spec is ~5 amps, so I don't think it's a draw issue, but I don't have any prior experience with the heated gear.
If the Stator was the problem, do they go bad in this manner? What I mean is, do they loose volts in this manner, or do they go from working to full failure?
Voltage Regulator seems a likely source of the issue, could the new added draw have led it to fail? I could understand that the regulator would fail to pass enough voltage, but would it fluctuate like that?
I know, a million questions, but I figured someone out there might know.
Last Saturday, I installed the pigtail to the battery for a Gerbings vest.
I am pretty good about tightening the terminals, and don't think this is the issue.
Ran the bike ~800 miles at Highway speeds, using the heated vest (why I didn't years back I wondered, but that's another post), no issues observed.
This morning, I'm riding in to work, radio and vest on. I get into bumper to bumper traffic, and eventually I notice the voltmeter is down around 10. As soon as the RPMs increase to ~2K, the voltmeter is back around 14. Drops at idle, then back up at 2k. I notice a slight change in the brightness of the dash lights as well; couldn't tell for sure if the headlight was doing the same but I believe it was.
I switch off the vest, and it makes no difference. Switch off the radio, no difference.
So, I have downloaded the test procedure for the stator & alternator, but have not done the tests yet. New battery was installed in July.
Based on these observations, does the heated vest draw that much juice? I see the spec is ~5 amps, so I don't think it's a draw issue, but I don't have any prior experience with the heated gear.
If the Stator was the problem, do they go bad in this manner? What I mean is, do they loose volts in this manner, or do they go from working to full failure?
Voltage Regulator seems a likely source of the issue, could the new added draw have led it to fail? I could understand that the regulator would fail to pass enough voltage, but would it fluctuate like that?
I know, a million questions, but I figured someone out there might know.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,590
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From: Ohio
You don't have a problem.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Virginia
I had the same bike but a 2000, when stopped at a red light I did notice the volt guage reading lower than 12V, if I shut the vest off i would notice the volts move slightly back up. Not sure if you have a charging issue or not. Seems weird that it would not roll back up after shutting down the vest. I think the constructions with the vest ask us not to let the bike idle under a certain rpm??? I usually shut my vest off when approaching red lights. Good luck.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2008
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Well,
With a multi meter across the battery terminals:
At idle, the fairing gage reads ~10, the multimeter reads 12.65
at 1.5k rpm, the fairing gage reads 12, the multi meter reads 13.65
2k and above, the fairing gage reads ~14, and the multimeter reads 14.2
Defective gage?
I will open the fairing and check the wiring, but it just seems odd that it's all of a sudden like this.
With a multi meter across the battery terminals:
At idle, the fairing gage reads ~10, the multimeter reads 12.65
at 1.5k rpm, the fairing gage reads 12, the multi meter reads 13.65
2k and above, the fairing gage reads ~14, and the multimeter reads 14.2
Defective gage?
I will open the fairing and check the wiring, but it just seems odd that it's all of a sudden like this.
Stage IV
Joined: Jan 2013
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electrical problems
I have a 99 FLHTCUI with an electrical problem.I'm riding down the road and the radio will go off completely for about a second. Sometimes when I'm at idle the volt meter will read 10 and the radio screen will start cutting out and the screen will fade away until it goes off. I think its a radio ground but I'm not a troubleshooter and I don't want to start taking things apart and not be able to get them back together. I live in a rural area and its a 2 hr drive to the nearest Harley shop. Can someone help me?
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,350
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I have a 99 FLHTCUI with an electrical problem.I'm riding down the road and the radio will go off completely for about a second. Sometimes when I'm at idle the volt meter will read 10 and the radio screen will start cutting out and the screen will fade away until it goes off. I think its a radio ground but I'm not a troubleshooter and I don't want to start taking things apart and not be able to get them back together. I live in a rural area and its a 2 hr drive to the nearest Harley shop. Can someone help me?
Toby
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
James, that looks normal.
the voltmeter in the dash is merely an "indicator" esp on your model which has a weak(er) ign switch. ( some were recalled- I know my '95 was in about 2001)
everything up front incl. the light go through that switch and it is possible to burn out the switch contacts.
so there is a combination of a not quite accurate voltmeter and voltage drop ( resistance) in the wiring and switch(es).
your measurements at the battery are correct.
the heated gear uses 60 watts of power ( 12 volts/ 5 amps = 60 watts) which is the same as your high beam.
think of the charging system like this:
a small hose feeds water into a large basin...the basin has a small hose leading out of it to drain water...the hoses are both the same size. so the water level in the basin stays the same.
if the drain hose is twice the size, the basin will not hold level and will eventually drain all the way down.
the basin is your battery, the drain hose is your lights, vest and other kack--- ( the radio draws far less power than anything else)... the small feed hose is the charging system
your voltmeter is a way to tell how high the level is in the basin
( plumbing is a handy way to draw analogies to electricity)
mike
the voltmeter in the dash is merely an "indicator" esp on your model which has a weak(er) ign switch. ( some were recalled- I know my '95 was in about 2001)
everything up front incl. the light go through that switch and it is possible to burn out the switch contacts.
so there is a combination of a not quite accurate voltmeter and voltage drop ( resistance) in the wiring and switch(es).
your measurements at the battery are correct.
the heated gear uses 60 watts of power ( 12 volts/ 5 amps = 60 watts) which is the same as your high beam.
think of the charging system like this:
a small hose feeds water into a large basin...the basin has a small hose leading out of it to drain water...the hoses are both the same size. so the water level in the basin stays the same.
if the drain hose is twice the size, the basin will not hold level and will eventually drain all the way down.
the basin is your battery, the drain hose is your lights, vest and other kack--- ( the radio draws far less power than anything else)... the small feed hose is the charging system
your voltmeter is a way to tell how high the level is in the basin
( plumbing is a handy way to draw analogies to electricity)
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jan 7, 2013 at 08:46 PM.
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Not trying to highjack a thread.. but.. just got in a 99 ultra... guy put in a new battery. Put it on the tender.. showed short.. got it to start. voltage on the gauge said 14, as did the multimeter to the battery. 14.48@ idle. 1000 rpm. Am thinking the regulator bit the dust? Don't have the manual yet. and the battery had been on the shelf for 2 years til purchased. E1 is the date code on the sticker, purchased 12.30.12. Just got the bike on the 2nd of jan.. any help would be appreciated! thanks Gary
Stage IV
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
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answer found
Check your ground for your fairing, that is what happened to my radio. As for the gauge reading low, my 99 has done this since I got it in 2007. I did have my alt go out & the new one is just as bad. But I have mine idling around 800 rpms. Just look at the gauge before you start it & with the key on. That is your battery voltage, as long as it doesn't run down past that you are ok. I have 40,000-50,000 miles on my 99 that way since the new charging system.
Toby
Toby