Purplexing dyno results
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Maple Valley, WA.
I have had both tuners (SERT and PC), and for my money and what you are trying to do stay with the SERT. The SERT has the red button for recording runs. The SEPST has no button as all it does is download maps to the ecm that are obtained from a dealer. I never understood why you would buy the street tuner. If you look on the web you can buy a SERT for ~$400 add thirty dollars for the cables and $30 dollars for the software and you have autotune just like the PCV. Although you will have to spend almost $900 for the PC-V with autotune. Also the SERT is a much more comprehensive tuner. When you buy the software and install it to your computer it will conect to the internet and down load a bunch of "pre-made" maps. They are very generic but they have some builds for cams and big bore kits. On my last bike I used a D&D fatcat exhaust and Arlen Ness big sucker A/C. I installed the SERT on my computer, found the map for '96 CI 2 into 1 exhaust, free flowing A/C and downloaded it. It worked great for about 2 months. Then I took the bike to a local tuner. Did not get much more out of the tune (could have been the tuner). With the new SERT software- download the map, leave the orange box connected to the bike (comes with velcro strap), go out and ride, hit the red button and record your average riding session. Include hard accelerations and freeway speads. I think the box will record about 15 min. Then bring the box back to the computer and let the software make the corrections to your map. Re-flash the ECM and go ride again. You can "fine tune" as much as you like. The nice thing about the SERT is if you are going to do a big build. Much more controlable than the PC-V. If you are just going to change the exhaust and A/C then the PC will be fine. My 2 cents.
Now that is a really interesting suggestion. I'm still coming to grips with how these add tuners actually do their job. The one problem I have is that I just don't get a lot of confidence when I visit with my local harely dealer. They don't seem to have a good performance man there and their parts guy just tries to sell me stuff. I alway leave there confused. I'm having an indy do my work. I might have to call around and see if I can find a more knowlegeable tech at a dealer close enough to ride to.
You don't have to rely on a dealer to tune the SERT. Call around some dyno shops and see if they are familiar with the SERT. Then find some of the customers that that shop has tuned for and ask them how their bikes run after the tune. Word of mouth is the best. And go with your gut instinct. If you aren't comfortable with your dealer, don't use them. Best to do would be ask around. Maybe start a thread here asking for good SERT dyno tuners in your area or state, then you will have other peoples experience to base your decision on.
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
From: Bismarck, ND
Make sure its a SERT and not the SESPT (Screamin' Eagle Street Performance Tuner) http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
When a buddy of mine bought his bike he was told it had the race tuner and he showed me the orange case from his saddle bag. It said right on the case "Street Performance Tuner ", not the same as the race tuner.
When a buddy of mine bought his bike he was told it had the race tuner and he showed me the orange case from his saddle bag. It said right on the case "Street Performance Tuner ", not the same as the race tuner.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 663
From: Vancouver Island B.C.
It is a SEPST, made by SPX. The SERT (no longer available) was made by TTS, hence the similarity between the two. If you have a cd (part # 32111-10 or later) it will contain all the base maps and have the abilty to smartune. You will also need the cables to "talk" to your bike. At least it is not the street legal tuner. Your tuning device has the capabilities in the right hands to tune your bike.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
The SERT isn't removable, since it is never "installed". The SERT is just a communication interface that allows the user to make adjustment to the ECM. Once a user writes a MAP with the SERT it is stored in the ECM on the bike and the SERT is unplugged. So even if you install a PCV the MAP on the bike is still going to be the tuned MAP from the SERT. You could take your bike to a dealer and have them re-flash your ECM to stock, or you could leave it the way it is. As long as you have your PCV dyno tuned or run the autotune you would be fine to leave it. Since you already have the SERT and you can't sell it (it's married to the ECM on your bike) why not have the SERT tuned to your build? You caould still use the PCV with autotune, the PCV has the ability to run 2 MAPS via a switch. You could have one MAP run on autotune and the other set to all zeros and run the SERT MAP, maybe have that MAP tuned lean and run it when your in traffic and the bike is hot.
Keep in mind that switching between two distinct maps is only available with the PCV alone. With Auto-Tune, the switch will instead toggle between "learning mode" (closed-loop) and the base map (open-loop) without trims. This is the best way to design this feature, IMO, as you can set AT to tune rich in the cruise range, then accept trims to create a rich base map. Then lean the values in the AFR tables for the cruise range for better mileage and it will tune to that spec. When the going gets hot, just switch to the richer base map on the fly. It works very well, and FWIW I did a write-up on setting-up the switch with AT here.
You've explained this process very well, IMO. The disadvantage of keeping the SERT map installed with a PCV added would be that existing canned maps, like those available from Fuel Moto, would not work since they are dependent on having a stock or Stage 1 ECM map loaded.
Keep in mind that switching between two distinct maps is only available with the PCV alone. With Auto-Tune, the switch will instead toggle between "learning mode" (closed-loop) and the base map (open-loop) without trims. This is the best way to design this feature, IMO, as you can set AT to tune rich in the cruise range, then accept trims to create a rich base map. Then lean the values in the AFR tables for the cruise range for better mileage and it will tune to that spec. When the going gets hot, just switch to the richer base map on the fly. It works very well, and FWIW I did a write-up on setting-up the switch with AT here.
Keep in mind that switching between two distinct maps is only available with the PCV alone. With Auto-Tune, the switch will instead toggle between "learning mode" (closed-loop) and the base map (open-loop) without trims. This is the best way to design this feature, IMO, as you can set AT to tune rich in the cruise range, then accept trims to create a rich base map. Then lean the values in the AFR tables for the cruise range for better mileage and it will tune to that spec. When the going gets hot, just switch to the richer base map on the fly. It works very well, and FWIW I did a write-up on setting-up the switch with AT here.
I jusr read your post again. I see the conflict. Could you manually adjust your PC-V MAP and not accept the trims?
Last edited by harleytuner; Oct 24, 2010 at 04:11 PM.
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