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are you talking about turning them out 2.5 turns and locking the nut or is there something else you are refering too? Do they need additional adjustment other than the 2.5 turns?
Yes that's what I was talking about. If 2.5 turns is the correct specification. I just don't know the exact specification off the top of my head but that sounds about right.
Well she fired right up. No leaks so far. Gotta tighten up the exhaust chrome now that I know there are now leaks. There aint no hiding the fact it has a cam in it now. The initial prognosis on the top end noise..... it didnt get any louder. I will let ya'll know tomorrow after a test ride and run it through a couple of heat cycles.
Didnt get a test ride in. It spitted snow and didnt get above freezing here today. Yes it feels good to have done this and not had any problems. I think that I will do the jugs myself. It cant be much more difficult than the cams. I only wish I could find a couple of good threads and examples of how to do the jug change. Having those for the cam change was extremely helpful.
Thanks to all who gave me help along the way.
Didnt get a test ride in. It spitted snow and didnt get above freezing here today. Yes it feels good to have done this and not had any problems. I think that I will do the jugs myself. It cant be much more difficult than the cams. I only wish I could find a couple of good threads and examples of how to do the jug change. Having those for the cam change was extremely helpful.
Thanks to all who gave me help along the way.
Thanks for all the updates. I'mm almost thinking I could do it myself now.
Thanks for all the updates. I'mm almost thinking I could do it myself now.
You can do it yourself. There are several posts and examples on how to do it. Some of the things I worried about, where nothing to worry about in the end. Once I got thru a sticking point (DUH moments), it went relatively easy. This forum was a good source for guidance. Most of the posts walk you thru on how to do it, however none of them talk about what to do if you have a problem or dont have the same result as they did. It might be a good idea for me to do that and put it in a post or something. I am sure that there are many others that have had the same questions as I did but didnt ask. If you decide to do a cam change, let me know. I will help you any way I can. It would be much easier to do it again if I need/want to.
Once you get to this point, install the pushrods for the cylinder you are working on. They are not the same length. One will be slightly longer than the other. Bottom everything out (adjust them to their shortest length). Then compare them. The longer one is the exhaust pushrod (outer pushrod on the engine). Once you get them sitting on the lifter plunger start adjusting them out (make them longer) until you are able to seat the top of the rod in the rocker arm pocket. You should not be able to move the push rod up and down at all, but it should spin freely.
Now you are ready to adjust the pushrod. You need to know what the thread pitch of the rods are. Mine were 28 threads per inch. You want to push the lifter plunger .100 down, so you would turn the push rod out 2.8 turns. Mark the push rod with some white out so you can count the number of turns.
Wait at least 20 minutes for the lifter to bleed down and then rotate the wheel to get the other cam on the base circle so those lifters are at their lowest point. Then repeat then install process.
Hope this helps.
Zach
sns quickee pushrods are 32 thrrads per inch.. Sns website calls to turn pushrod 4 rotations to get to .100 down and adjust properly if this helps
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