Draggin Bagger install & test ride

.first get the bike on a lift, take the seat and bags off, and then get the batt out...this was the biggest problem on the whole deal [:@] ...its big and heavy and stuffed in there, do this, on the carb side of the bike there's a loom right behind the oil fill cap goin up into the frame under the seat...if you look in there you'll see the bottom of the batt and can get a big screwdriver in there to work the batt up and disconnect the cables [8D] ...then i mounted the valve with the big fitting centered in the factory hole...like this

it looks like this on the other side

now i didnt bolt or screw the valve or the comp into the bike...i used 3M VHB double sided tape...it'll stick anything if prepped right...since i had some nice painted flat surfaces...i started the prep by wiping all surfaces with rubbin alchohol...see

then i loosed the clamp bolt on the comp so's i could clock it good cause once its stuck, it aint comin off and you aint gonna get in there to adjust it...so i made me some marks...but first had to move all those cables to give me some workin room....and this plug(dont know what it does but looks important), i just moved in front of the batt for good


cut it

and moved it here

and the cheater marks(you oughta use em too
)
me tapin the clamp...but first cinch it down and look at it...when you tighten it, it draws together and you want a flat surface so i had to persuade it some


here it is stuck in place with the loom wire tie'd on...also i moved the fuse box out of the way just to give me more room...make sure and double check everything before stickin cause IT AINT COMIN OFF

NOW...install the switch...at first i thought it was cheesy...it does handle 30amps but i wanted something on the bars or dash, i'll do that another day tho...there's two holes you could use in the plate behind the rear jug...one is easy to get to...one aint....i choose the easy one....an drilled it out to 1/2"

now to wire it...this is where i followed DB's instructions(well kinda
)...i solder everything...when you solder, use flux and tin the ends before joinin em cause it works better...
and here's the finish product on wirin...it was easy too, except the damn batt so i reversed the take out process(it was the only time i had to have help, almost

)

then put on the shocks...DO NOT DO THIS...in the instructions it says to lift the bike to full extension...well i have a table lift so i figured i could do one at a time...you can, but it'll bust your *** when you do...first one went on great...unscrew the cap on the shock and pull the packin pin(youll hear air whoosh out) and then you can compress em...put the air fitting on the shock towards the tire(its slightly cocked from the factory)....now for the other one [:-] ...i shoulda known when the threads got tight as it neared comin out, but NOOOO...i kept right on til i got it off and WHAM....no air in the other shock and it slammed down real low[
] ...took two guys and still couldnt pick it up...too low to get a jack under...so i clamped one line shut and air'd the other shock up while my buds picked up the rear and i threaded it...fellas, save yourself the trouble, get a jack under it before you take em off
....one prob here on install tho...the dockin hardware didnt get along with the larger shock eye...so i trimmed it some, like this

here it is at stock height with stock shocks

here it is slammed

and full extension
[8D]

oh, check out my new dash pad...once i seen eddybo's i had to have one too
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Sorry about the bike coming down, man that had to stink. We do use jacks even on a table lift. First, I would like to say thanks for your patience and we appreciate your post. I can tell you spent alot of time presenting these photos and am sure that other forum members learned more from you and RonH than from me... I would like to use some photos for our website of you in your white suit (just kidding) just you and your ride. Can you snap one and send it to me via email. Can we put it on our site? You can spin your switch very easily, loosen the lock ring, or I can tell you how to switch two wires and bam up will be up... As far as the switch mounting, we use a dremel tool with a 90 degree head or a right angle drill and do it from the motor side, it really only needs to be expanded from 1/4" to 1/2", we use the outside hole that way it is as far to the outside of frame area to prevent the pipe from being near your hand... Well forum members I hope DI75 shows up to read this post... BRYAN TTM IS DRAGGIN!!! Bike looks real good, try to get your race car in your photo for me if it is near...
Thanks,
Tony
Let me know if you need anything....
www.dragginbaggers.com

As usual, great detail! This should get put in the DIY, minus our responses of course.
Enjoy! Oh, hey... is it strange going up and down while moving or is it a gradual thing that just stiffens/softens? I picture it like hydraulics and moving quickly






