Hydraulic clutch question?
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 616
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From:
Hydraulic clutch question?
I have a 2006 Ultra with a 98" GMR kit. When I did the motor I had to use a heavier clutch spring to keep the clutch from slipping.
I've ridden the bike 9000 miles that way and would like to lighten up the pull on the clutch lever.
I've read that the Hydraulic clutch isn't going to make that much difference??
I keep my cable lubed etc etc.
Custom Chrome has a kit for $250 minus hose that I thought I would try.
Is there something better out there? Is there a better clutch that doesn't require as much tension as my stock clutch??
My forearms almost the size of my leg from pulling this clutch all day. LOL
I've ridden the bike 9000 miles that way and would like to lighten up the pull on the clutch lever.
I've read that the Hydraulic clutch isn't going to make that much difference??
I keep my cable lubed etc etc.
Custom Chrome has a kit for $250 minus hose that I thought I would try.
Is there something better out there? Is there a better clutch that doesn't require as much tension as my stock clutch??
My forearms almost the size of my leg from pulling this clutch all day. LOL
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
Likes: 8
From: Plum & Nearly
PN# 37882-06 blue dot (117 KgF)
PN# 37871-04 yellow dot (135 KgF)
PN# 37871-98A (145 KgF)
PN# 37807-03 pink dot (165 KgF)
PN# 37951-98 (175 KgF)
here are the spring part numbers and their associated kilograms of force numbers....dont know which one you installed for your build but I would not go lower than the 145 kgf. The 165 kgf is what is included with the SE Big Bore Kits.
currently the 117 kgf is what is used on the 96" engines but imho I think it is too light but it has been working fine with OE engines. Also, while uncomfortable i would opt for a heavier pull and increased clamp load as opposed to a possible slipping situation causing $$$$$ to be spent on clutch discs.
PN# 37871-04 yellow dot (135 KgF)
PN# 37871-98A (145 KgF)
PN# 37807-03 pink dot (165 KgF)
PN# 37951-98 (175 KgF)
here are the spring part numbers and their associated kilograms of force numbers....dont know which one you installed for your build but I would not go lower than the 145 kgf. The 165 kgf is what is included with the SE Big Bore Kits.
currently the 117 kgf is what is used on the 96" engines but imho I think it is too light but it has been working fine with OE engines. Also, while uncomfortable i would opt for a heavier pull and increased clamp load as opposed to a possible slipping situation causing $$$$$ to be spent on clutch discs.
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 616
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From:
I'm using the stock clutch springs and a heavier diaphram spring that rides on top of the clutch housing.
I don't want to lighten the spring set up or clamping force.
I either want to add a hydraulic clutch or maybe a new clutch with strong holding force with less effort to pull it.
I don't want to lighten the spring set up or clamping force.
I either want to add a hydraulic clutch or maybe a new clutch with strong holding force with less effort to pull it.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
I have a 2006 Ultra with a 98" GMR kit. When I did the motor I had to use a heavier clutch spring to keep the clutch from slipping. I've ridden the bike 9000 miles that way and would like to lighten up the pull on the clutch lever. I've read that the Hydraulic clutch isn't going to make that much difference?? I keep my cable lubed etc etc. Custom Chrome has a kit for $250 minus hose that I thought I would try. Is there something better out there? Is there a better clutch that doesn't require as much tension as my stock clutch?? My forearms almost the size of my leg from pulling this clutch all day. LOL
http://www.aim-tamachi.com/home.php?cat=3
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 7
From: Minnesota
I've read that the Hydraulic clutch isn't going to make that much difference??
I would first look into the HD kit that upgrades the older clutch to perform like the newer ones. I don't remember what they are called. I think they are only $100 or so.
If you can afford it hydro clutches are very sweet and smooth. No adjusting or cables to replace, only fluid changes.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
Likes: 8
From: Plum & Nearly
I'm using the stock clutch springs and a heavier diaphram spring that rides on top of the clutch housing.
I don't want to lighten the spring set up or clamping force.
I either want to add a hydraulic clutch or maybe a new clutch with strong holding force with less effort to pull it.
I don't want to lighten the spring set up or clamping force.
I either want to add a hydraulic clutch or maybe a new clutch with strong holding force with less effort to pull it.
Your stock 06 spring was 117kgf and it was the first year for the touring bikes to get the easy pull (reduced clutch lever effort) ball and ramp. I guess the Hydraulic system requires a little more force to make the piston actuate-return correctly thus the requirement to go to at least the 135kgf. A heavier spring should probably be acceptable also for your bigger build. The hydraulic portion of the kit replaces the cable-ball and ramp mechanical portion of the system (tranny side) and also replaces the clutch hub release mechanism (on the clutch hub side) with a ball bearing...thereby eliminating the internal adjustment of the clutch.
While the hydraulic actuator should make disengagement-engagement smoother, I am not sure if it would reduce lever-pull effort because the spring tension-force is governed by which spring was used.
Hope this helps.
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2005
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That all makes sense.
I think I'm going to look in to the VPC option. Looks like the easiest way to go.
Thanks for all the help!
I think I'm going to look in to the VPC option. Looks like the easiest way to go.
Thanks for all the help!
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 8
From: Central Fl.
I changed the diaphram spring when I did my build, and I installed the easy clutch ramp at the same time. Your bike should have come with this ramp and I don't know which # the SE diaphram is. But it's just like pulling back when it was stock. FWIW.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 26
From: OOB, Maine
I run a VPC and a hydraulic clutch. Very easy setup. Ran the VPC before I did the Hydraulic addition. At a stop light it is very nice. Easy riding very nice. Taking a buddy off the line, you have a surprise waiting for you when you go to pull the clutch for 2nd and so on while getting on it. Not horrible, but definitely seems like it is compared to sitting at the light idling.
Just my $.02
Adam
Just my $.02
Adam