23T compensator
The 22T is 12 % more torque. How would the RPM verses MPH pan out with that ?? Do you think that the 22T would be too steep for this heavy sled that is almost always 2 up ???
BTW ,.............the Baker site sells the kits for $249 !! WOW !!
corb
The 22T is 12 % more torque. How would the RPM verses MPH pan out with that ?? Do you think that the 22T would be too steep for this heavy sled that is almost always 2 up ???
BTW ,.............the Baker site sells the kits for $249 !! WOW !!
I worked out that to give my Glide (2-up and loaded) the same torque and acceleration as my modified Dyna (when solo), I would need a 131" billet motor, with around 135+TQ! I say that to help give an image of how performance relates to our bikes.
So I am going round the houses here, to get to an answer for you. Stock top gear gives 23.8mph per 1,000rpm, so at 3,000rpm you will be riding along at 71.4mph. My 21T gives almost exactly 20mph per 1,000rpm and a 22T gives almost 21mph/1,000, so just 1 mph per 1,000rpm difference between those two. At 3,000rpm a 21T gives 60mph and the 22T 63mph.
A further comparison is that at 5,500rpm in top gear, stock gearing gives a theoretical top speed of 131mph, a 22T gives 115mph and a 21T gives 110mph. The first is impossible, probably even in freefall, the others closer to being likely!
Hopefully that gives you some numbers to help you decide. What I find with my Dyna is that the engine really is not very sweet below 3,000rpm, but above it is a real dream. So cruising along above 3,000 is a very desirable thing to do! Also the bike will pull away in top gear from below 40mph, so it rides like a big engined bike should IMHO.
The difference between 22T and 21T is not much. I bought the 21T kit because it was readily available at the time and I didn't look at any alternatives. It is only since fitting it that I have studied the subject more closely!
In summary either a 21T or 22T would most certainly wake up your bike and would make anyone you ride with wonder how you get away so quick! A difficult choice, especially making it cold so to speak, but if you like to cover big distances at say 60-80mph a 21T will give you a great ride, especially if your TC88 is like mine. Roll-on acceleration for passing is great!
Hope that helps. Ask away if you would like anything else.
Last edited by grbrown; Feb 13, 2011 at 06:14 AM.
So,.....I'm on the fence between the 23T and the 22T...............
Decisions, decisions, decisions.....................
http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/Gearratio.htm
Another easy way to calculate the rpm change is to multiply the ratio change (say 12%) times the rpms's you run with your current set-up at a given speed. For example, if you run 3K rpm's at 70, you'll turn 360 more with a gear providing 12% increase in torque.
The 21T sprocket/chain kit in the SE parts catalog has been in the catalog for a number of years and, according to the service manager at my local HD store, was originally developed for Touring models w/ side cars to provide a big increase in torque for the added weight of the side car.
Good luck with your research and project.
Carl
So,.....I'm on the fence between the 23T and the 22T...............
Decisions, decisions, decisions.....................
I have also revised the gearing of my Glide. As an International spec bike it originally had a 61T rear pulley, so changing to US spec was a significant change of 70/61, almost 15%. I am now considering a further change of the compensator, in line with what I preach, which will probably be a 22T (my Evo has a stock 24T). That will give a little over 20mph per 1,000rpm and a further increase in rear wheel torque of 9%.
Different size clutch sprockets are available, although that seems the most expensive way to go IMHO. The alternatives are smaller front pulley and/or larger rear. It would be worth looking through recent threads on those to see what the latest thinking is.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Stock cammed 88" touring bike, I would think 23/36 or 24/37 would be pretty nice like the early fuel injected bikes.
If you go 23/36, all you have to do is buy the sprocket and flip your tensioner shoe with your stock chain and you are there.
It will put you right at the beginning of the power band in 5th gear and you can pass without downshifting. There is only 50 rpm difference at highway speeds between these two, so I'd take the cheap way out and go 23/36.
It depends on where you like the bike to cruise. At 75 mph on the highway, the 22/36 is going to put you at 3600 rpm, that's a little more than I would like compared to 3450 on the 23/36.
I am cheap... I went 24/36 with an M6 chain tensioner and away I went. Picked up the 24 tooth sprocket brand new off the internet for $25. 3300 rpm at 75mph is just about perfect for no downshift on the highway to pass.
Last edited by inverse121; Feb 13, 2011 at 03:40 PM. Reason: Forgot to talk about flipping shoes.








