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cool idea with the chrome spacer. I have to wonder why some seem to be so far off on the alignment while others aren't?
funny that this thread is getting more visibility now than when I first started it 4 years ago i'm just glad that it helped some folks. and I like some of the other tweaks to it that have been posted.
Good find! Firm believer of the PTFE/Kevlar treatment for a self lubricating metal to metal parts. Wondering if Moly lube might help with Heim joints that are missing this step?
It might be worth pointing out that not all Heim joints are equal and some come with no liner at all (designed to absorb vibrations). That is, they'll be loose. Ditto, others have zerk fittings and need greasing to remain tight, e.g. .
I was looking at the idea of using stainless turnbuckles and fond a few from yachting suppliers. Auto ones tended to be too big and not well finished. All pretty cheap.
Did this mod yesterday and was able to get out this morning. As stated before, shifting really feels more solid. I didn't like how the 1'' bolt in the back joint only went halfway thru the bracket so I went back and got a 1 1/4'' bolt that goes all the way thru. ( did the 1/4'' spacer also)....
but how are you going to connect those to your shift and transmission levers?
Male rather than female Heim or rod end joints. I was looking for a thinner rod, may be alloy and to keep it clean.
I mean, strictly speaking, I suppose these are male to male rod ends ... if that doesn't sound too gay? Nah, it's more like to males spit-roasting a female to female turnbuckle.
I've read all the posts and have a couple of comments.
1) The original rod [at least on mine] has "rolled threads". That means that the shaft itself is slightly under 5/16" and when the threads on the ends are 'rolled', it brings the diameter of the threads to 5/16". Attempting to increase the length of the threads on the original shaft by running a die down will leave the 'new' threads undersize. Probably not an issue considering what this part does . . . but still bothers this machinist's mind.
2) To test alignment issues, you should be able to rotate the shaft slightly at all positions during the "shifting". In other words, press the shifter down, hold it there, and see if the shift rod still has some rotational movement. Then lift the shifter up and check that there is some rotational play there. If so, there is to need to shim, space out, etc.
I bought stainless ball joints with Teflon liners from McMaster-Carr. They cost a little more [$25/pair] but are top quality. To address the "length" issue, I cut off 1/4" from each ball joint [squared and smoothed the cut] and also cut 1/4" from one end of the original H-D threaded shaft. This allowed me to use the original jamb nuts and left a few threads on the shaft for adjustment both ways.
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i'm just glad that it helped some folks. and I like some of the other tweaks to it that have been posted.
