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After spacing out the rear 1/4" all is well again. It was in too much of a bind before. I'd caution those that are just bolting the heim joints on to check how much side load they're putting on the trans lever.
Well, I have to say, I did this project initially for two reasons. First, after reading of random failures this was simple, inexpensive insurance against that. Second, I always like futzing around and this was right up my alley with solid sensible benefits. But what I hadn't expected was the noticeable improvement in the shifter feel. Man, it's good. A very solid and positive snick, snick, snick every time, up and down. Really very happy with that.
Not to mention the additional 10 hp, increased fuel mileage I get and handling improvements. Magical!
One update to my earlier post: after riding a bit I found my center to center measurements were a bit off so I pulled the front joint off the rod and reinstalled the lock nut which fine tuned the shifter peg to the perfect location. Very easy.
You only got ten extra ponies out of it? You shoulda used the brass nut LOL
Well, that's merely an estimate with the "seat of the pants Dyno" but it probably doubled when I put that second nut back on, and... Button head are definitely faster than hex head.
Followup on my heim joints. Went back to Grainger and got the right parts. When they came in they went right on the shift rod. Amazing what can happen when you get the right parts. Anyways I saw the link on one of the posts about the Kuryakyn 1077 Chrome Shift Linkage so I ordered one today. I'm going to put the new one on and put the other one in my saddle bag. Some Of the guys I ride with had no idea the shifter rod would fail until I showed it to the.
I'm going to put the new one on and put the other one in my saddle bag. Some Of the guys I ride with had no idea the shifter rod would fail until I showed it to the.
Probably a good idea since eventually **** will happen. And though I hate to jinx my self, I've been lucky so far. Riding thirty years now
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