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Power Duals - Fitting Advice Wanted

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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 02:12 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by hougz79
I had a helluva time trying to get the damn crush gaskets to stay in place as I wiggled the exhaust on. I'm glad I took some time (and had bad weather) during my install, because I took my time, and it demanded a lot of time....

Damn the do look sweet though and were worth all the sweating and swearing trying to get the damn things on!!!
I did consider a spot of grease to hold the gaskets in place, but found them to be a good friction fit into the exhaust port seats. This was one of the fitting points that the second pair of hands definitely came in came in useful, worth the effort prizing him of his X-Box LOL
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 05:52 PM
  #22  
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Only Problem i ran into was the right side straight shield was keeping me from sliding the muffler on. Turns out, After a quick call to V&H. With the Hi-Output Mufflers, the shield needs to be tucked inside of it. It just doesn't butt up to it.
10 minutes later It was a done deal. Also did mine complete on the jiffy stand.
 
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Old May 2, 2011 | 01:03 PM
  #23  
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My buddy and I just installed the Kuryakyn Hi Five Mach 2 aircleaner, Vance & Hines Power Duals, and Kuryakyn Crusher slipons onto our 2010 FLHR and FLHX. My buddy had removed his old pipes and muffler, fitted his new aircleaner, and loosely installe the head pipe on his bike over a couple nights before i got there.

We did everything on my bike and completed his bike...including ECU flashes on both our bikes using TTS mastertune and the Kuryakyn map for their Perfect Storm setup with their version of Power Duals...in about 8 hours.

Some pointers from our experience.
1) the two mechanics we spoke to both said that they NEVER follow the torquing instructions from Harley for the headers. They cinch each nut down evenly, a few turns at a time, to drive both headers down into the gaskets evenly until they are relatively tight, then switch to the torque wrench and continue to give a few turns to alternating nuts until they are all properly torqued. We did it this way and have no leaks. Found it easy to get the old gaskets out...dug behind them with a small screw driver until they loosened, then pulled out with needle nose pliers.

2) Torque wrench is essential (one Ft-lb one and one inch-lb one). You need to make sure you tighten all Torca bands and the headers properly to insure you have no leaks. My buddy had done an ultra several years ago and did not use a torque wrench on the Torca clamps...he was absolutely amazed at how much effort you have to put in to torque them down and never went anywhere near that far when he did the Ultra (and wound up with leak issues). You may be able to rent from autozone if you don't have them. I spent $110 or so for one of each at Sears as I know they will get used in maintenance in the future.

3) It is not easy to get at an properly tighten the lower front header nut. I have no idea how they do it in the factory or the shop. You need a shallow socket to get in between the nut and the frame and absolutely need some kind of wobble bar or offset bar to try to get at it with the torque wrench.

4) You will need some mechanical advantage to get some of these things loose!! a 2 foot long piece of pipe will be required to loosen some of the bolts, lol. For me the biggest offenders were the floorboard bolts and the existing Torca clamps.

5) under no circumstances should you reuse the Torca bands. Go to the shop and buy two new ones for the mufflers.

6) look for a socket set that has the hex key heads that will fit on your 3/8" or 1/4" drive ratchet driver....using Allen wrenches sucks...and you will use them on the floorboard bolts and the oilpan bracket.

7) Do be careful with both the floorboard bracket and the oil pan bracket...don't tighten up until the head pipe is tightened down to heads..then work backward. I had some trouble lining up the floorboard bracket.

8) shields went on easy. We put them on after we installed all the pipes, but did some dry fitting first to make sure that things lined up.

9) Be careful with the crossover shield...it is a pain to get on and can scratch the hell outta the shields around it.

10) after you have ridden for a day or so...go back and check torque again. Stuff will loosen. Have gone a few days on mine and I get a little bit of backfire now and again (when I have been hard on the throttle and then completely back off), so I will tighten up later (my buddy just gave me the torque wrenches back...his stuff loosened up some after several heat cycles).

All in all, it was a straightforward thing. With my sausage fingers, I had trouble getting the new gaskets (supplied by the company I bought my kit from...conical in profile, nicely made) in...so I had my buddy do it. For the same reason, I got very frustrated trying to get the clamps together behind the pipes...had my buddy do it, lol.

They look great and sound great. Nice bass sound at idle and they bark when you crack the throttle. Louder than stock at cruise, but not too bad. Got compliments on looks and sound at the charity ride I went to yesterday.

Only complaints I have is that the A/C sticks out further than i would like (reduces the amount of my foot that is on the brake...not sure I like that!), some of the heat shields don't offer enough coverage or look funny (the one on the left side pipe going down to the crossover just kind of ends and looks weird and the one from the right side down over the crossover could offer a little more coverage), and the rear O2 sensor just kind of sticks out and looks outta place. Also, the Torca band for the crossover is situated just under the oil pan so you can't rotate it up so the end of the bolt is out of view when its on a stand.
 
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