Power Duals - Fitting Advice Wanted
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: England
Power Duals - Fitting Advice Wanted
All set for fitting a set of Power Duals next weekend, just wondered if there are any tips to make things as painless as possible.
Also, anyone know the Torque settings for the Exhaust manifold nuts?
Also, anyone know the Torque settings for the Exhaust manifold nuts?
would be great to see some photos as u do the removal and install.. will be doing mine mid June sometime.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Just follow the instructions they are very good. Putting the heat sheilds on is a time consumer. Mark pipes where the clamps go as per instructions. The clamps provided for the big center heat sheild were too short for mine. Just went to the auto parts store and bought some.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2009
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When you finalize the position of the heat shields, make sure your brake pedal lever won't touch the shield during full-on application of the brakes. Otherwise you'll have to reposition everything after you feel this weird vibration during your first ride. Minor, but worth a mention.
Ok, easy answer to your exhaust-to-cylinder head torque. 100-120 inch pounds.
HOWEVER; per the manual
for the front cylinder>
Tighten top nut of front cylinder exh. flange to 9-18 in/lb., Tighten bottom nut to 100-120 in/lb., Final tighten the top nut to 100-120 in/lb.
for the rear cylinder>
Tighten the bottom nut of rear cylinder exh. flange to 9-18 in/lb, Tighten top nut to 100-120 in/lb., Final tighten bottom nut to 100-120 in/lb.
I didn't list the other torque specs for the OE pieces you aren't using because V&H (if I remember) has their own specs for their pieces.
Heat shield worm clamps should be about 20-40 in/lb. (those are OE specs)
Muffler-to-saddlebag brackets are 96-144 in/lb. (OE spec)
Muffler clamps are 38-43 ft/lb. (OE spec)
Hope that helps.
Ok, easy answer to your exhaust-to-cylinder head torque. 100-120 inch pounds.
HOWEVER; per the manual
for the front cylinder>
Tighten top nut of front cylinder exh. flange to 9-18 in/lb., Tighten bottom nut to 100-120 in/lb., Final tighten the top nut to 100-120 in/lb.
for the rear cylinder>
Tighten the bottom nut of rear cylinder exh. flange to 9-18 in/lb, Tighten top nut to 100-120 in/lb., Final tighten bottom nut to 100-120 in/lb.
I didn't list the other torque specs for the OE pieces you aren't using because V&H (if I remember) has their own specs for their pieces.
Heat shield worm clamps should be about 20-40 in/lb. (those are OE specs)
Muffler-to-saddlebag brackets are 96-144 in/lb. (OE spec)
Muffler clamps are 38-43 ft/lb. (OE spec)
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Da Butcher; Mar 1, 2011 at 04:27 PM.
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From: England
OK so began installation today, or rather dismantling, old headers removed ready for Phase 2.
Papifun : Photos have been taken, when completed I will post with any areas that caused any pain.
Da Butcher: Thanks for the advice and Torque details, quick question regarding the exhaust manifold nut behind the A frame, I removed it using a spanner as the socket set will not fit, so how did you manage to set the torque when fitting on this particular nut?
Papifun : Photos have been taken, when completed I will post with any areas that caused any pain.
Da Butcher: Thanks for the advice and Torque details, quick question regarding the exhaust manifold nut behind the A frame, I removed it using a spanner as the socket set will not fit, so how did you manage to set the torque when fitting on this particular nut?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: In your head rent free
I set the rear ones first and torqued to specs.
Then I alternated tightening between the outside nut and inside nut on the front ones. I used the "best guess" method on the inside one by comparing the feel of the outside one once that was torqued to specs..
Then I alternated tightening between the outside nut and inside nut on the front ones. I used the "best guess" method on the inside one by comparing the feel of the outside one once that was torqued to specs..
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From: Middletown, NY
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Toypuller
When you removed the old headers did you find a gasket? The OE headers seem to have a different termination to the pipework than the V&H and looked to be flat fit with a compression gasket.
When you removed the old headers did you find a gasket? The OE headers seem to have a different termination to the pipework than the V&H and looked to be flat fit with a compression gasket.
Last edited by mrbluffo; Mar 7, 2011 at 02:49 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Middletown, NY
You have to remove the old gaskets and use the ones that came with the kit. The factory gaskets have a tapered inlet and the vance and hines are just a crush style. I made the stupid mistake of just buying 2 new factory ones and installed them prior to reading the instructions
