Nothing. I have had my 14k mile 96 on and off online for $1200 and not even a nibble to dicker.

Heres a thing to remember.... I would NOT recommend using some PCV with something this size. I am the test mule for Steve Cole's 120r base cal. TTS or PV is about the ONLY way to go.

My 96 100% stock went into EITMS way *** faster that my 120 with A Lonewolf cal. Then the Steve Cole cal is even cooler running yet.

There IS an issue some of us are finding..... Looks like (not 100%sure yet) that some SE lifters got the wrong rollers and they are a teeny bit convex. Having 520lbs of force on the cam nose with 1/8 of roller touching isn't good in our book. Woods directionals are going in.

Here's the deal for all the guys that say their bike is good enough or plenty fast, etc. I call BS on that. A STock Ultra is a dog and pig *** slow.

Yes, I have built a few bikes before, and I REALLY like a nice 107... but the 120r will put a whooping on a Winger and if THAT isn't grandpas bike... what is? I can pull away from a BMW 1200 touring too.

Kinda nice to have power in reserve instead of ALWAYS using every bit of power. I can climb a 10% hill a few thousand feet and in 6th... cruise works nicely.

This is a nice upgrade for me. I have about $6200 in mine with 58SE; 5.3 injectors; Primo Pro Clutch, already had a D&D Boss. I did every bit of the install myself. Piece-of-cake. I own a totalled 2010 Ultra. Two different colored bags; dings and scratches everywhere... RUNS great! NOT done playing with the tune, yet. Sane riding is already in the high 30s and I expect low 40s when done. That is about equal to the last 107 I had.

I think that I am going to install OLD style RH TDs. Sound bad *** instead of annoying like the Boss.

Tuners HATE the new style TDs by the way.

I would NOT install a 662-1. With this set up, about a 50 close will be 188-190 ccp and that is about where one wants the comp. the 266s are really soft and really mild... in a different build those would be BIG cams... in the 120r... 175ccp.

Like Dalton says... a GOOD tune is a necessity. Also, that SE clutch is NOT the way to go. Ever ride one in traffic? I have and will not own one. Bandit Sportsman or Pro Clutch without TPP is a good way to go.

 

Why is the PCV not capable?

 

I haven't heard of anyone having problems with the crank? Lot's of them out there being ridden aggressively and not nearly the failure rate of the cranks in other Twin cams. The SE 120R is done to higher tolerances and a different process so maybe they finally got it figured out?

All I know is mine runs good and keeps me smiling.

 

Good to hear....but still curious why someone would say a Power Commander 5 couldn't handle the 120...

 

I feel that an add on would not handle all the settings it has taken me to START getting things running right. I had to make changes in: warm up enrichment; cranking fuel; spark temperature correction; closed throttle spark; IAC warm up steps, IAC crank to run; IAC crank steps; and throttle blade control. I have some EGR issues, maybe this is a pipe sensitive set-up, that needs some massaging in the VEs, too. I like a nice and crisp throttle.

Some of these are not available to be adjusted on a PCV.

Ummm... this is NOT like an 'extended' version of a stock engine like a 103/107 may be considered. Think of my past statement that a SE266 cam is MILD...You are looking at a 25% larger engine with 100% more HP than stock. Different injectors, etc. COMPLETELY different engine configuration... longer stroke, 660 lift cams, etc. A good example is the stroke. I LIKE TTS products BTW. The injector on a stock bike is made to fire off of a 4 3/8 crank rotation and NOT a 4 5/8 crank rotation. FINE control is whats necessary, IMHO, to achieve the best idle qualities, let alone going down the road. Too big of a 'swing' in things to try to overlay what is in a stock ECM. It's my opinion that the settings inside of the ECM needs vast changes, too vast for an add on. Just switching from the stock 50 DBW to a SE 58 DBW has a couple issues for idle qualities. Folks with cable bike have it a teeny bit easier. DBW controls all the IAC functions inside, there is not a separate IAC, for example.

I'm sure a PCV would 'work', but then what is the definition of 'work'. I have spent days just dialing in idle, cold and hot, as an example. I want my bike to operate like a stocker. Going down the road and having things be a little rich, is OK on the PCV, but idle, coasting to a stop, pulling away from a stop... popping when making transitions from run to coast or idle... these things get annoying if not done right. Of course, maybe I am wrong. All depends on what one is shooting for here... OK, or correct. I chose correct, OK is never good enough for me, especially after spending $6k+

But it IS my opinion that a flash based tuner is needed..... to 'get' at all of those little things inside.

Plus, I don't think there is a chance in hell getting 40mpg with a PCV on this engine.

 

Sounds like the 120 pretty good bang for the buck

 

havent read all the posts but has anyone herd that you have to let the 120r cool for at least 10minutes after each running ? before you restart it !? and if 120 is good wouldnt 147 be better "ie; renegade engine " aussie built and super phat

 

super phat?