I am a machinist. Going to see if indie will let me use his cam install plate for a template. And make my own. No big deal if you have the measurements to go by. I have always liked to make my own stuff. Just to beat the system. My outlaw spirit, I reckon.

 

I had our tool room make mine out of a 6" piece of 1 1/4" 4140 bar stock, just turn one end down to .997" about 1/2" deep. It works great, you do not need the whole alignment plate gaget...............I tried to attach the PDF of my drawing but could not figure it out??????

 

I just use an old cam.......

 

did a 103 255 upgrade last winter. had to buy a blind hole bearing puller to get cam bearings out. I made my own insertion tool. before you start you need to put a straight edge accross the face of the cam box and take a depth measurement to the cam bearings. there is a lip behind the bearing and manual says do not force bearing up against it. it is about 1/16 away from crank shaft counterweight plate. I dont see any way you could feel hitting this by hand either. some posts I have read guys are hammering the bearing in , a little too crewed method for something I hope will be dependable.
here's wow I made my plate the cams from the original 96 are hollow , I inserted a drill cut down and backwards into the end of the camshaft so only about 1/8" was sticking out. next I took a piece of 1/4 plastic that I previously laid against the bolting face of the outer cam box plate and drilled the holes in the plastic template to match the bolt pattern of the cam box plate. you also have to drill out the 2 holes for the hollow locate dowel pins. I then put this clear template against the engine cam box face and bolted the outer cambox plate over the clear plastic plate. Remember the hollow cam with the short drill sticking out of it. you insert the drill end into the outer cam box plate and turn it and it will leave the center line of the cam bearing on the plastic plate. drill a small hole about 1/8 where the drill made the mark. you being a machinist can do this even better than I did, the drill had a few thousand clearance but it was the closest thing I had to fit the hole. machine a pin that is almost a press fit into cam with a point on the end to mark the center, dont know why i didnt think of this sooner.
once you have all the holes in the plastic template get a piece if 1/2 plate and copy the bolt pattern and the 2 holes for the cams become the threaded holes for your jack screw, I used 9/16 fine thread. next make a bearing plug pusher to fit into the bearing to keep the push straight. the hd tool has a pin or spigot in the thread rod that fits into the spigot, I didnt do this I just machined the end of the threaded rod flat and square. I took my oil pump out so I could get a good view up to view the bearing insertion and watch that the push was going straight. remember the measurement you took from straight edge of cam box case to the bearing earlier, push new b168 bearing to the same depth. If you put a spigot on your jack screw, a few thousand clearance may not be a bad idea to let the bearing center in the real hole alignment. dont forget to replace the oil pump seals, if the gasket leaks the 2nd scavaging pump wont drain the crank and bike will be dragging the crank in a puddle of oil. also when putting it back together put the boltss in finger tight into cam box and turn motor over using rear wheel to allow the oil pump to center itself on the crank and cambox face before tightening up cam box, dont forget its a harley use loctite

 

heres more pics the harley 400 doallar plate has hole in it to measure the depth through the plat as your pushing Im sure you would add the thickness of the pusher plug to the measurement , I just took the plate off and measured and put plate back on when I had to go farther.
have fun. look at harley tool pic copy it

 

Great writeup 2009 blackpearle. Great job on that cam installer. That was exactly what I be talking about. Nice. Thanks for sharing.

 

Nice write up. A couple of pictures are worth a couple thousand words.

 

glad i could help. glad my project is finally done. 2 winter build
1st winter 103 kit with 255 cams.
2nd winter. new mva heads, had to change pistons from flat tops to domed for the new heads 10:5-1 . .044 gasket lowers compression to 10:1-1 so the 255 cams will work properly apparently they dont like it over 10;1.
screaming eagle push rods, vance and hines power duels-monster rounds. added electric decompression releases in the new heads. had to rewire fuse box and add a wire to ecm plug under seat. what a pain in rear this job was , no just plug in for this addition. pulls like a tank now, speedo really climbs when passing with out winding the throttle out, when you take it up over 3500 hang on to the grips. havent had it over 4 grand. still need about 500 miles to finish break in then hit the dyno to hopefully hit just over 100 hp and hope torque is between 110-115 ft/lbs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv_glekpmTM