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What effect does changing the spark plug gap have?

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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:29 AM
  #31  
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My indexing/gapping experience. Me and a buddy were scheduled to do some bike maintenance and do some drinkin in the process. I was late gettin there due to an emergency service call so he had the service done and was drinkin without me. A few days later we were riding together and I commented about how much better it ran and couldnt figure out why. All he did was change oil and filter! He laughed and told me he had gaped and indexed the plugs! I'm not saying it had more hp but it just ran smoother, especially at idle.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 08:52 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by who?me?
Indexing is a complete waste of time. Think about this. The intake valve is open on the down stroke of the piston. At the bottom of the stroke the intake valve closes. As the piston comes up the entire fuel/air charge is swirling around in the cylinder. As the piston comes to the top, the charge is compressed into a small area and completely surrounding the spark plug. Then the spark plug fires. It will not make a bit of difference to have the gap pointed at the intake valve at this point of the cycle when the charge is no longer entering the cylinder. On these engines, it will make no difference in performance to have the plug gapped at either end of the tolerances.
It may not be worth your time, but it does make a difference in several ways. Facing the open gap toward the intake valve ensures the ground strap does not shroud the spark from the center of the combustion chamber and A/F charge, it aids in propogating a nice even and stabil flame front that begins colser to the center of the charge within the combustion chamber. Also the incomming A/F also acts a cleaning agent as it rushes across the face of the plug. Indexing may not add 10HP, but it does contribute to a smoother running engine, and it keeps your plugs cleaner for a longer time. It is claimed by some to gain about 1 horse per cylinder, not noticable on a vtwin, but power increase is definatly noticable in a V6-V8. It's not worth it to everybody, but it really only cost a few cents in copper washers and a few minutes of your time, and there are real benefits to the procedure, it just wont make the front wheel come off the ground.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:05 AM
  #33  
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i run 38 for 9.8.1 comp. that is what i was told by my indie RKG plugs
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:20 AM
  #34  
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Not being a wrench on much more than maintenance and adding the occasional chrome goody, can anyone point to the direction the plugs need to face to be indexed? I have no idea which side the intake valves are located on the Twin Cam 96. I look forward to trying this indexing and seeing what happens.

As for those that notice a seat of the pants change, I would like to see if they would notice the same change if a buddy did the indexing of the plugs correctly and then incorrectly with a 10 pass test ride and see if the rider could accurately determine which of the 10 passes were indexed correctly and which were reversed?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:51 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by djbiker
Not being a wrench on much more than maintenance and adding the occasional chrome goody, can anyone point to the direction the plugs need to face to be indexed? I have no idea which side the intake valves are located on the Twin Cam 96. I look forward to trying this indexing and seeing what happens.

As for those that notice a seat of the pants change, I would like to see if they would notice the same change if a buddy did the indexing of the plugs correctly and then incorrectly with a 10 pass test ride and see if the rider could accurately determine which of the 10 passes were indexed correctly and which were reversed?
Facing your motor from the left side, position the open gap; 1-2 o'clock on the front cylinder, and 10-11 o'clock on the rear cylinder. Or position the ground strap; 7-8 o'clock on the front cylinder, and 4-5 o'clock on the reat cylinder.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #36  
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Here is an old test when you could play with the system on 80 cub. Well I see it didn't attach. It was in HOT Bike 07/1995.

Stock Plugs out performed Platinum and SplitFire Plugs. Stock Coil gap .045 = 55 hp, gap .060 51.5 hp With hotter coil .045 gap = 59.5 hp and .060 gap = 63 hp. Gas mileage also went from 46 to 52 mpg with hotter coil and wider gap. There also have been articles of upgrading the plug wires to improve spark.

That being said the new systems have upgraded coils I think since you don't see hotter coils being offered. I changed my plug wires to the Thundervolts and gap them .045 to stay within the range for the spark sensor or whatever it's called on the EFI bikes. I also believe in indexing the plugs. I use Blue Lightning plugs that have proven dyno runs at SLC HD to improve hp.
 

Last edited by gmc; Jan 25, 2012 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:06 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
Facing your motor from the left side, position the open gap; 1-2 o'clock on the front cylinder, and 10-11 o'clock on the rear cylinder. Or position the ground strap; 7-8 o'clock on the front cylinder, and 4-5 o'clock on the reat cylinder.
Cool, I think I will give this a try this afternoon. It's raining outside today, so will have to see how it idles in the garage, but should be able to see if it smooths out at all. Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:07 AM
  #38  
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Waxing a clean bike is worth more speed than indexing plugs... no dirt to weigh it down and the wax eliminates wind drag... it's also dyno proven... LOL!!!! Indexing will help efficiency but telling it would be virtually impossible...
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 10:09 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by who?me?
Indexing is a complete waste of time. Think about this. The intake valve is open on the down stroke of the piston. At the bottom of the stroke the intake valve closes. As the piston comes up the entire fuel/air charge is swirling around in the cylinder. As the piston comes to the top, the charge is compressed into a small area and completely surrounding the spark plug. Then the spark plug fires. It will not make a bit of difference to have the gap pointed at the intake valve at this point of the cycle when the charge is no longer entering the cylinder. On these engines, it will make no difference in performance to have the plug gapped at either end of the tolerances.
That is also why I always laughed at those swirly propeller doo hickies they used to sell for mounting underneath your car carb. Swirling and mixing the gas particles with the air has never been a problem.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
A tighter gap is typically used in a higher compression motor, I think the tighter gap makes a smaller but more powerful spark to resist flame out, or whatever the tech term is. I would say experiment with it, try the .043 and .038, see if you feel any difference, either way you're not going to hurt anything. I've been messing with indexing, side gapping, and colder heat ranges, My opinion the side gap does feel like it makes a stronger running motor, but it does shorten the life of the plugs. I've always been an advocate of indexing, it positions the ground strap so it doesn't shield the spark from the air/fuel charge.
I want to index my plugs but where do you get the rings? I bought some 14mm from Jegs but they fit very loosely. Thanks!
 
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