WO 575 on a 2011 Limited
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,905
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, AL
WO 575 on a 2011 Limited
I searched the archives and there are a lot of posts on the WO 575 but can't find any recent, within the last year, or that address the Limited. Will these bars work considering the FLHTK has ABS and heated grips? Will all the wires fit but just tight? From some of the past posts and pictures, these bars seem to what I need to get a better grip and be able to lean back some.
The original thought was the PYO bagger apes but there is a problem with the heated grips with them and besides, I am not looking for up, but back.
Thanks for the past helpful comments.
The original thought was the PYO bagger apes but there is a problem with the heated grips with them and besides, I am not looking for up, but back.
Thanks for the past helpful comments.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
From: Henderson
Funny you should ask. I just finished mine tonight. I put WO 575's on it and ran all the wires through the handlebars. It was a PITA but she looks awesome. I added a +4 magnum shielding clutch cable, I have read that the stock would fit but it was definetly too short. Brake lines worked ok but that will be the next thing I replace when I come across some more money. I also got +12 wire extensions and if I were you I would also plan on getting a TBW extension...I wish I would have. The job is very doable just get a service manual and take your time. Hope this helps. By the way I have the 2010 Limited. Thanks for listening t the likes of me...
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 52
From: Central Illinois
Got those bars on my 2010 LTD and all wires are internal.
The brake line fits just fine and I did run with the stock clutch cable for awhile, just routed it differently. Eventually put in a +4 Magnum cable.
The brake line fits just fine and I did run with the stock clutch cable for awhile, just routed it differently. Eventually put in a +4 Magnum cable.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,905
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, AL
Thanks, that's the info I was hoping to hear. Another question/s though, where did you get them and the clutch ajnd wiring extensions. I assume that the clutch was temporarily run outside the fairing. I did a full left to right steer and can see that the cable appears to have little slack. I really don't want to have to take it all apart twice so if the brake lines are needed, or highly desired, I would want to do it all at once. I do have the service manual and am not going to have a dealer do them.
Some people say they plan these things as a winter project, but around here, a summer project makes more sence. Upper 90's and high humidity today and it gets "better in August".
Some people say they plan these things as a winter project, but around here, a summer project makes more sence. Upper 90's and high humidity today and it gets "better in August".
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: SO Cal
2010 SG and all I had to do was install a +4 clutch cable. the wires worked just fine just had to reroute them (in my opinion you are better off with out extensions because less connectors are better). I did get the Screaming Eagle TBW that does not have the Green connector. I have said this before, but here it goes again, If I could only make one mod to my bike it would be these bars. They made such a difference in my wrists and back and made the bike much more controllable.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 24
From: Texas
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 52
From: Central Illinois
You do not need new brake lines, just the +4 Clutch cable.
As someone else stated, having the TBW sensor without the green connector makes it easier but also not required. I ran the stock one with the connector in the bars. You also do not need any wire extensions.
I'll take some pictures later if you want. Got a coule in my garage but not real close up.
As someone else stated, having the TBW sensor without the green connector makes it easier but also not required. I ran the stock one with the connector in the bars. You also do not need any wire extensions.
I'll take some pictures later if you want. Got a coule in my garage but not real close up.
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 37
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From: Las Vegas
Hey guys, I am getting ready to do this mod. I just want to confirm:
1. You DO NOT need longer brake cables? If you were going to get them, what size?
2. What does the SE TBW do the stock one doesn't? Why does it not have a connector?
3. You SHOULD get the 12" wire extension? Where do you get them? Are they just unplug then plug in new ones?
I have cleverly hidden six questions in only 3 numbered questions. This will make me (foolishly) appear less like a newbie
Thanks for the help.
Chad
2012 FLHX
1. You DO NOT need longer brake cables? If you were going to get them, what size?
2. What does the SE TBW do the stock one doesn't? Why does it not have a connector?
3. You SHOULD get the 12" wire extension? Where do you get them? Are they just unplug then plug in new ones?
I have cleverly hidden six questions in only 3 numbered questions. This will make me (foolishly) appear less like a newbie
Thanks for the help.
Chad
2012 FLHX
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 343
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, Arizona
1. The stock brake lines fit so don't worry about where to get replacements. If you look at the stock front brake lines you will see that they are one piece. The lines are swaged together, you can't just remove the upper line that goes to the brake master cylinder. As a consequence if you change them you need three new lines and a junction block for the lines to screw into. You are talking a lot of extra money.
2. The optional SE TBW has longer wires that go all the way through the bar from the handlebar end down through the bar and out the hole in the bottom center of the bar. It does not have the "green" connectors in the middle, but you still have to plug the wires into the Molex connector after the wires are run through the bars. With the stock wires you run them in from the lower end and up the bar toward the grip and then connect the green connector that is on the twist sensor. You can buy an extention from Barnett, NAAMS and a couple of other places and use the stock set-up. I've used both the SE and the stock wires with an extension. Both work and once inside the bar you can't see anything anyway. With the WO 575 the stock TBW wires were just a tad to short on my bike so I just used a Barnett 8" extension.
3. You don't need 12" extensions. 8" is plenty. You can get them from NAAMS and a couple of other places. The wires plug in, but you need a heat gun to heat the shrink tube that goes around each connection. A good hair dryer or lighter might also work.
2. The optional SE TBW has longer wires that go all the way through the bar from the handlebar end down through the bar and out the hole in the bottom center of the bar. It does not have the "green" connectors in the middle, but you still have to plug the wires into the Molex connector after the wires are run through the bars. With the stock wires you run them in from the lower end and up the bar toward the grip and then connect the green connector that is on the twist sensor. You can buy an extention from Barnett, NAAMS and a couple of other places and use the stock set-up. I've used both the SE and the stock wires with an extension. Both work and once inside the bar you can't see anything anyway. With the WO 575 the stock TBW wires were just a tad to short on my bike so I just used a Barnett 8" extension.
3. You don't need 12" extensions. 8" is plenty. You can get them from NAAMS and a couple of other places. The wires plug in, but you need a heat gun to heat the shrink tube that goes around each connection. A good hair dryer or lighter might also work.