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Major Rebuild trouble - HELP

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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 09:00 AM
  #1  
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Default Major Rebuild trouble - HELP

Hoping nothing major is going on with my rebuild, but I got my fears...

I tore down my 2006 Street Glide and changed the cylinders and pistons to Hillside's 98ci and had Hillside do the Stage II head work too. At the same time I installed Andrews 37 cams into a new hydraulic tensioner cam plate and installed with S&S adjustable pushrods.

Now that I have everything back together, I can't get it started. It cranks and turns over without any alarming sounds until about every several rotations I get a MAJOR backfire out of the right pipe. I did this for about 30 seconds or so until my battery died again with no start. Working the throttle doesn't help it either.

Is something majorly off here? I double and triple checked the cam timing and sprocket timing when I assembled it, but something seems screwed up.

Any ideas??

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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Ignition timing. Backfire gives it away.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 09:34 AM
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I would look at cam timing. You might be off a tooth or two.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 09:35 AM
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Carb or injected?
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 09:40 AM
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Its injected. I am using a FuelMoto PCIII that Jaime loaded with a starter MAP to get running. My plan is to dyno map it in a week or so.

Ignition timing is through the PCIII, correct? Nothing physical I think?
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 09:50 AM
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Yes, the PC controls the timing, since it's Sunday about the only thing you can do is recheck the cam timing. I doubt that the PC would be that far off to cause the problem, if you can't find anything else give Jamie a call tomorrow.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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First things first. Disconnect the PC from the bike, and go directly to the ECM. That way if there is a problem with the PC then you have eliminated it.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 11:13 AM
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This is the 'long way around' of trouble-shooting this issue, but as DTTJGlide alluded...during cam-plate assembly it's critical to align the timing marks related to the cams. Make sure this was done. (You'll have to pull the cam chest cover again). Then work 'outward' from that. Next thing I'd check is the adjustment of the push-rods. I'd refresh myself on the proper procedure, and then run through it all again. (Were the lifters replaced? General wisdom is to replace them any time you're doing cam work. A 'weak' one can cause starting/running issues, to be sure. In addition, even if they were replaced, it's possible to get a 'bad' one off the shelf, i.e., bad=doesn't pump up so it effectively defeats your 'timing' for that cylinder). If cam timing's good, and the push-rods are properly adjusted (and the lifters are nominal), I'd do as larsfum suggested and take the PC out of the equation, and see if it starts/runs with it out of the loop.
 

Last edited by AlanStansbery; Jun 19, 2011 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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I went trough this my SE255 cams were markedcwring so I was off it did exactly what your experiencing. Do a compression check you should be around 200 psi in both cyliders I bet you may be in one but not the other. Then you will have to go into the camchest again check it all out for correctness. Good luck take your time you will figure it out.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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Thanks for all the tips. Psyching myself up for the "joy" of opening up the cam chest again!
 
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