trailer in a bag
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,081
Likes: 1,127
From:
I just used a 2011 trailer in a bag to transport a road king classic for about a 1,600 mile trip. These were my findings..
Easy to store:
Fits in the trunk of some cars or 18 inch X 18 inch by 5 foot vertical space like a condo locker/garage corner like the dead space between garage door rail edge and side wall or maybe plastic outdoor storage trunk or larger indoor furniture trunk.
Construction:
Black painted hollow but thick walled and heavy weight 2in./by 2 in. ? steel for main frame that looks like the class II trailer hitch metal, aluminum rails and finally the condor chock. The pieces are heavy so it may be difficult for some to handle, no big deal but still about 35 pounds for the heavier pieces. You would want to assemble and take-apart as close as possible to the car. If in a condo I would suggest using the luggage or grocery cart. You could probably use the provided bag and a hotel luggage cart to pass a lobby and get it into a hotel room or condo quietly. The loaded bag will not hold the weight of contents.
The wiring and lights are just simple standard trailer lights but I was surprised to find mine had LED bulbs installed.
The 8 inch rims have tires with a diameter of about 17+ inches..So if you have a car with 17 inch rims the edge of that rim would be the end of the rubber. The rubber patch that touches pavement is about 4 ˝ inches wide. Each D-rated 8 ply tire is rated for 1,045 pounds and stamped high speed. Note that not all trailer tires on the market are D-rated or 8 ply and few are rated for that weight. Most have much lower ratings.
The tires are Load Star brand. The rims are imported. The trailer tongue is also stamped as imported.
The tires are balanced. Pre and post tire tread measurements seem to show tread wear will be about 10,000 miles with rotations. But this is truely just a guess at this time.
The bearings appear to be L44643 with a 1”X 1” 4 lug spindle.
At each fueling the hubs and tires were no warmer than the car tires.
The cross bar(front tie down bar) is heavy but hollow and probably measures 1in.X1in thick. The loops on the end (one on each end) seems to be a chain link welded diagonally into hole of bar. The bar is held to trailer frame holder by two Pins. Each Pin has one clip.
The rear of trailer has 4 loops(two on each side) that appear to be very heavy duty chain links welded to the wheel axle bar.
The ramp must be removed during transport, and stored… tossed in trunk.
Overall the trailer appears very strong and unique in its ability to be stored.
You MUST pull trailer light posts(2) from holder in rear axle in order to load and unload or you risk tripping of over lights and license plate. yes, almost every state requires a license plate.
Requirement:
The trailer does NOT include the floor boards or Condor chock.
In my opinion trying to load or unload a heavy bike without the floorboard option allows ZERO room for error, requires total commitment/trust and no room for loss of concentration. The video person must have practiced thousands of times.
The floor board option is a must in my opinion unless you are very tall and ride a very low or light bike. Reason : Your feet are at least 8 to 10 inches off the ground and you only have one chance to place your feet on the trailer axle and you better not slip. Unloading is a bear since there is no leverage point to pull out of Condor chock with-out floor boards. The floor boards in combination with the Condor make loading and unloading a Harley much safer and easier. The floor boards rest about 1/8 inch lower than the rail motorcycle rides on.
Use of Trailer:
For one motorcycle this thing can be pulled with a class one hitch having a two inch ball. A class one hitch can be added to most cars for about $250 as a do it yourself. Curt manufacturing makes a bunch of them. The one(hitch) I got is difficult to notice when the ball mount is removed and rubber plug inserted.
Trailer should not be pulled empty(with-out) bike. The trailer is not designed to be pulled empty and it will bounce and rattle something alarming. Again, it is not designed to be used empty. Maybe 15 MPH to get across a parking lot, street or around the block but that’s it(and expect noise). You can not load or unload the bike unless it is attached to the hitch. There is no way to unhitch the trailer while motorcycle is mounted.
There is no provision provided to mount a spare rim/ tire to trailer. I have seen pictures of a spare tire mounted in front of the Condor vertically by an owner. Probably bolted to the Condor. I would recommend a spare rim/tire since an 8 inch rim with a D-rated/ 8 ply tire is not the most common.
Smooth roads are quieter and no problem, speed bumps with minor precaution (you are pulling a trailer!) are no problems, rain was not an issue. Bumpy roads make for some noises since there is no suspension on trailer (sounds like a large landscape trailer) although i think some of the noise is harmonic due to vibration of aluminum rail on steel tubing. If driving with windows up/closed then probably will not hear much. Bike does not bounce on trailer and appears to be able to use some of its own suspension (suspension not fully compressed). You really forget about the bike until you look in rear view mirror,passing another car or when starting from a stop(increased load)
Speeds do not appear to be an issue (constant 70-75mph+ for hours with several times at 80mph).
I consider the floorboards mandatory for any bagger Harley or any non-super low rider.
I would discourage purchase/ use of trailer with-out floor boards and the Condor upgrade.
The rail is difficult to see with a fairing bike or one with a large nacelle like a Road King but with a spotter you will be OK..after a while you learn to just aim for the condor. Again the floor boards add a feeling of assurance and a place to step. Make sure the Condor is flipped in correct position before trying to load.
Loading and unloading requires setting two light posts aside to avoid tripping. Each light post is held in its holder with a Pin and a Clip.
There are no standard supports provided for trailer wiring. Some people use zip ties/tie wraps etc… but Harbor Freight has a Hook & Loop Velcro type roll that is rather inexpensive (less than $10) and works really well to strap lights to lower bike frame or trailer when cut into 15 inch strips(re-usable and require no tools). Do NOT use the rings from the pins to strap wires. The trailer pins rotate over time and this will place stress on the wires and possibly break them.
The aluminum rail can be slippery (even when dry) when loading and unloading. Rear wheel spin when loading and front tire slip when apply brake to unload.
I added non-slip/traction tape to aluminum ramp and the two other aluminum rails.
Home depot has some 4 inch traction tape that looks good and works well.
To tie it down: The “Power Tye” ratchet strap set-up I purchased someplace else worked well . It came with 4 Ratchet straps, each strap had the sheepskin cover and everything came in a bag. Hooks had the extra clip in case of slippage also. I took the sheepskin covers from the rear straps and added them to the front ones for extra paint protection through the triple tree(Be carefull with brake line!). Rear straps were attached to passenger floor board posts/mounts. The Condor itself held the bike well. It made getting off /on the motorcycle safer and tie down easier.
Security:
Security is always a concern with any trailer especially an open trailer since the front wheel is in a chock and the forks are not locked. A disc lock should be mandatory along with some reminder for the disc lock (maybe tape on key). The trailer itself could be taken apart in pieces. The trailer ball mount can be removed. The ball itself can be removed etc. etc. The use of multiple security layers should be considered if required. Several locking pins are available from places like Home Depot, Walmart and trailer supply houses. pins are available in ź inch like the trailer tongue, or ˝ or 5/8 used on trailers on some ball mounts. In the end it is a trailer and security is a concern so common sense and locks/chains etc. just to slow them down.
Overall:
It is about space, tow vehicle requirements and convenience.
The trailer is strong, minimalist and is easy to store.
The trailer is expensive and probably cost about $600 more than most would like to pay when you add the Condor and Floor Boards. Someone could possible make one similar for about $800 if they had the time, tools and skill. Yes, Harbor freight has trailers, get the trailer, add their ramp, rail, and chock can get it done for less than half but storage will still take more space. Space is where this trailer excels.
There are very few trailers that can be stored in a linen closet, laundry room or condo locker. If you take the wheels off and remove the 3 pins for the Condor then the parts could probably lay flat under a bed frame… except for the wheels.
The trailer actually fits in a trunk with Condor and floor boards included. The Condor pins must be removed first. A spare tire would be difficult to fit in a small car trunk.
The trailer can be pulled with a Class 1 hitch so most small cars can handle the load.
The cheapest way to trailer a bike would probably be a U-Haul rental. If available when needed and then again it must be OK with a class 1 hitch if that is your tow vehicle.
Convenience in that it requires little planning.
Set-up takes about 30 minutes..getting parts together, assembly, lights, hooking to car.
The bag provided is of limited use since you cannot lift it when packed.
There are better trailer options but few when storage is at a premium.
Final note:
If going direct…I would call and ask for a deal rather than internet ordering..Sometimes they have “sales” on the Condor chock or a spare tire that may not show on the internet…but then again some other resellers may help avoid shipping..And once again I suggest the floor boards be used.
Easy to store:
Fits in the trunk of some cars or 18 inch X 18 inch by 5 foot vertical space like a condo locker/garage corner like the dead space between garage door rail edge and side wall or maybe plastic outdoor storage trunk or larger indoor furniture trunk.
Construction:
Black painted hollow but thick walled and heavy weight 2in./by 2 in. ? steel for main frame that looks like the class II trailer hitch metal, aluminum rails and finally the condor chock. The pieces are heavy so it may be difficult for some to handle, no big deal but still about 35 pounds for the heavier pieces. You would want to assemble and take-apart as close as possible to the car. If in a condo I would suggest using the luggage or grocery cart. You could probably use the provided bag and a hotel luggage cart to pass a lobby and get it into a hotel room or condo quietly. The loaded bag will not hold the weight of contents.
The wiring and lights are just simple standard trailer lights but I was surprised to find mine had LED bulbs installed.
The 8 inch rims have tires with a diameter of about 17+ inches..So if you have a car with 17 inch rims the edge of that rim would be the end of the rubber. The rubber patch that touches pavement is about 4 ˝ inches wide. Each D-rated 8 ply tire is rated for 1,045 pounds and stamped high speed. Note that not all trailer tires on the market are D-rated or 8 ply and few are rated for that weight. Most have much lower ratings.
The tires are Load Star brand. The rims are imported. The trailer tongue is also stamped as imported.
The tires are balanced. Pre and post tire tread measurements seem to show tread wear will be about 10,000 miles with rotations. But this is truely just a guess at this time.
The bearings appear to be L44643 with a 1”X 1” 4 lug spindle.
At each fueling the hubs and tires were no warmer than the car tires.
The cross bar(front tie down bar) is heavy but hollow and probably measures 1in.X1in thick. The loops on the end (one on each end) seems to be a chain link welded diagonally into hole of bar. The bar is held to trailer frame holder by two Pins. Each Pin has one clip.
The rear of trailer has 4 loops(two on each side) that appear to be very heavy duty chain links welded to the wheel axle bar.
The ramp must be removed during transport, and stored… tossed in trunk.
Overall the trailer appears very strong and unique in its ability to be stored.
You MUST pull trailer light posts(2) from holder in rear axle in order to load and unload or you risk tripping of over lights and license plate. yes, almost every state requires a license plate.
Requirement:
The trailer does NOT include the floor boards or Condor chock.
In my opinion trying to load or unload a heavy bike without the floorboard option allows ZERO room for error, requires total commitment/trust and no room for loss of concentration. The video person must have practiced thousands of times.
The floor board option is a must in my opinion unless you are very tall and ride a very low or light bike. Reason : Your feet are at least 8 to 10 inches off the ground and you only have one chance to place your feet on the trailer axle and you better not slip. Unloading is a bear since there is no leverage point to pull out of Condor chock with-out floor boards. The floor boards in combination with the Condor make loading and unloading a Harley much safer and easier. The floor boards rest about 1/8 inch lower than the rail motorcycle rides on.
Use of Trailer:
For one motorcycle this thing can be pulled with a class one hitch having a two inch ball. A class one hitch can be added to most cars for about $250 as a do it yourself. Curt manufacturing makes a bunch of them. The one(hitch) I got is difficult to notice when the ball mount is removed and rubber plug inserted.
Trailer should not be pulled empty(with-out) bike. The trailer is not designed to be pulled empty and it will bounce and rattle something alarming. Again, it is not designed to be used empty. Maybe 15 MPH to get across a parking lot, street or around the block but that’s it(and expect noise). You can not load or unload the bike unless it is attached to the hitch. There is no way to unhitch the trailer while motorcycle is mounted.
There is no provision provided to mount a spare rim/ tire to trailer. I have seen pictures of a spare tire mounted in front of the Condor vertically by an owner. Probably bolted to the Condor. I would recommend a spare rim/tire since an 8 inch rim with a D-rated/ 8 ply tire is not the most common.
Smooth roads are quieter and no problem, speed bumps with minor precaution (you are pulling a trailer!) are no problems, rain was not an issue. Bumpy roads make for some noises since there is no suspension on trailer (sounds like a large landscape trailer) although i think some of the noise is harmonic due to vibration of aluminum rail on steel tubing. If driving with windows up/closed then probably will not hear much. Bike does not bounce on trailer and appears to be able to use some of its own suspension (suspension not fully compressed). You really forget about the bike until you look in rear view mirror,passing another car or when starting from a stop(increased load)
Speeds do not appear to be an issue (constant 70-75mph+ for hours with several times at 80mph).
I consider the floorboards mandatory for any bagger Harley or any non-super low rider.
I would discourage purchase/ use of trailer with-out floor boards and the Condor upgrade.
The rail is difficult to see with a fairing bike or one with a large nacelle like a Road King but with a spotter you will be OK..after a while you learn to just aim for the condor. Again the floor boards add a feeling of assurance and a place to step. Make sure the Condor is flipped in correct position before trying to load.
Loading and unloading requires setting two light posts aside to avoid tripping. Each light post is held in its holder with a Pin and a Clip.
There are no standard supports provided for trailer wiring. Some people use zip ties/tie wraps etc… but Harbor Freight has a Hook & Loop Velcro type roll that is rather inexpensive (less than $10) and works really well to strap lights to lower bike frame or trailer when cut into 15 inch strips(re-usable and require no tools). Do NOT use the rings from the pins to strap wires. The trailer pins rotate over time and this will place stress on the wires and possibly break them.
The aluminum rail can be slippery (even when dry) when loading and unloading. Rear wheel spin when loading and front tire slip when apply brake to unload.
I added non-slip/traction tape to aluminum ramp and the two other aluminum rails.
Home depot has some 4 inch traction tape that looks good and works well.
To tie it down: The “Power Tye” ratchet strap set-up I purchased someplace else worked well . It came with 4 Ratchet straps, each strap had the sheepskin cover and everything came in a bag. Hooks had the extra clip in case of slippage also. I took the sheepskin covers from the rear straps and added them to the front ones for extra paint protection through the triple tree(Be carefull with brake line!). Rear straps were attached to passenger floor board posts/mounts. The Condor itself held the bike well. It made getting off /on the motorcycle safer and tie down easier.
Security:
Security is always a concern with any trailer especially an open trailer since the front wheel is in a chock and the forks are not locked. A disc lock should be mandatory along with some reminder for the disc lock (maybe tape on key). The trailer itself could be taken apart in pieces. The trailer ball mount can be removed. The ball itself can be removed etc. etc. The use of multiple security layers should be considered if required. Several locking pins are available from places like Home Depot, Walmart and trailer supply houses. pins are available in ź inch like the trailer tongue, or ˝ or 5/8 used on trailers on some ball mounts. In the end it is a trailer and security is a concern so common sense and locks/chains etc. just to slow them down.
Overall:
It is about space, tow vehicle requirements and convenience.
The trailer is strong, minimalist and is easy to store.
The trailer is expensive and probably cost about $600 more than most would like to pay when you add the Condor and Floor Boards. Someone could possible make one similar for about $800 if they had the time, tools and skill. Yes, Harbor freight has trailers, get the trailer, add their ramp, rail, and chock can get it done for less than half but storage will still take more space. Space is where this trailer excels.
There are very few trailers that can be stored in a linen closet, laundry room or condo locker. If you take the wheels off and remove the 3 pins for the Condor then the parts could probably lay flat under a bed frame… except for the wheels.
The trailer actually fits in a trunk with Condor and floor boards included. The Condor pins must be removed first. A spare tire would be difficult to fit in a small car trunk.
The trailer can be pulled with a Class 1 hitch so most small cars can handle the load.
The cheapest way to trailer a bike would probably be a U-Haul rental. If available when needed and then again it must be OK with a class 1 hitch if that is your tow vehicle.
Convenience in that it requires little planning.
Set-up takes about 30 minutes..getting parts together, assembly, lights, hooking to car.
The bag provided is of limited use since you cannot lift it when packed.
There are better trailer options but few when storage is at a premium.
Final note:
If going direct…I would call and ask for a deal rather than internet ordering..Sometimes they have “sales” on the Condor chock or a spare tire that may not show on the internet…but then again some other resellers may help avoid shipping..And once again I suggest the floor boards be used.
Notes:Before starting this trip i was able to isolate the rattle noise i had heard before..I hate noises..Noise was caused by floor board vibrations on trailer..Placed some felt furniture pads were the floor boards rub against rail before the trip and all noise was gone..
I did find an issue upon my return though.
I found that one of the LED tail lights on the trailer did not have all the LED's in it operating..
It uses an 1157 LED bulb (common standard two filament style tail/brake light bulb but the LED version)..Seems like 6 of the 19 little bulbs in the one 1157 died..Still very functional but i ordered two from Ebay for about $9 total delivered. I also converted the little side marker lights to LED.
Tire use was about the same, trailer hubs, rims and tires were never any warmer than car. You could hold hand to them for 10 seconds with no problem (warm but not burning) outside environment at 80+ to 90+.
Drove 70+ mph only stopping for gas/food for hours (mostly 73mph/cruise control), the hitch on the last passenger car was self installed and so was the hitch on the present car i used for this trip..both hitches are class 1 and both were from Curt mfg. I did use an anti-rattle Bolt/pin this time so the hitch ball mount would have no play and therefore make no noise..between the anti-rattle pin for ball mount and the felt pads on floor boards the ride was quiet on most roads...
This trailer was not cheap,there are nicer trailers and definitely less expensive ones..but for storage when not in use issue's or trailer parking at the final destination.. this one seems to work for me..No affiliation with trailer company or hitch company...do NOT believe the you tube guy loading the bike with-out floor boards..He must be a stunt man or something..Loading with-out the floor boards is asking for trouble.
Last edited by im; Jan 29, 2013 at 01:15 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 325
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Great write-ups! How long does it take you to break the trailer down and reassemble it?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,081
Likes: 1,127
From:
To your question:
It takes me about 45 minutes to remove the items from the car trunk/garage, assemble, load the bike, place disc lock on front rotor(your forks are unlocked since they are straight), place the 4 tie down ratchet straps on the bike, and double check everything. The trailer lights and tie downs seem like the slowest part for me..I even check the operation of the lights before i take off..sometimes it could take me an hour for the whole deal before i roll..i do it slowly and with precision. I am not in a rush and prefer to spend an extra 20-30 minutes making sure all is to my satisfaction before i take off...so you get an idea, i also place zip ties on all cotter pins to make sure no little kid or teenager can walk up and just remove a cotter pin...i see people with hitches that are pulling trailers all the time and think how some prankster could just remove the cotter pin from the ball mount while the person is taking a ****..the set-up and break down take about the same amount of time..
Honestly, if storage space at home, storage at your destination and if someone already had a truck with a hitch then there would be a lot of choices...I ordered the Curt hitch and self installed the hitch on the car i have at the time.
The above were my issue's and my only choices were the trailer in a bag or the
port-a-chopper (that one has a torsion suspension) similar concept but no condor shock and no boards..
Also note that if you use it like i do..The trunk has your motorcycle gear on the way out then you remove the motorcycle baggage and place it on your bike so now the trunk is empty and you can load the trailer in the trunk..An suv would be easier but a car with a small trunk is tight with the trailer in it..i have used two different kinds of cars and both had smallish trunks..i think it is kinda cool.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 12,578
Likes: 19,791
From: Ramona, Ca
what a waste of 1200 bucks for a trailer that can be used for only one thing. You can get a 5 x 10 trailer that does more for a whole lots less
http://www.uhaul.com/Reservations/Eq....aspx?model=MT
http://www.uhaul.com/Reservations/Eq....aspx?model=MT
Last edited by SeniorChief56; May 12, 2012 at 10:10 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 2
From: Coral Springs, Florida
what a waste of 1200 bucks for a trailer that can be used for only one thing. You can get a 5 x 10 trailer that does more for a whole lots less
http://www.uhaul.com/Reservations/Eq....aspx?model=MT
http://www.uhaul.com/Reservations/Eq....aspx?model=MT
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,081
Likes: 1,127
From:
Actually it is all about choices and options.
1-Rentals in my area are NOT available one-way..So if someone was to rent a u-haul they would need to have a way to store it at their destination. In this case i would need to get an additional space when i got to the start of my motorcycle trip. I was able to park my car at an airport ( 1 space) and then take-off on my motorcycle for a multi-destination/multi-day motorcycle trip.
2-The motorcycle specific trailers for uhauls in my area are limited and not always available..
3- A nice box trailer or flat bed would be good for more than one thing, but then your back to the storage space at home due to garage/lot size, community association rules or even some city laws.
4-The hitch situation is another thing i had to deal with..most trailers require more than a class #1 hitch.
5-I like the pick-up and ramp idea, but i do not have a pick-up and i really have no use for one in my area..I would want a truck with a back seat but then the bed would need to be short in order to fit in the garage but then the bike would not fit..and leaving it outside would not be an option.
* Again this is not the best trailer, it is ABSOLUTELY not the least expensive and there are other options..This thing is about $1,800 with the condor chock, boards and a spare tire..Again this NOT the least expensive option..I just put the information out because it was so difficult for me to get user information instead of sales talk...If someone has no space issues.. both at home and at their destination, no community/town rules regarding trailer storage and also has a vehicle that can pull a boxed trailer or flatbed then that would be the way to go and for less money..The rental of a uhaul trailer would be good also if they had one, if it was available when you needed it and if you had were to store it at the destination.
1-Rentals in my area are NOT available one-way..So if someone was to rent a u-haul they would need to have a way to store it at their destination. In this case i would need to get an additional space when i got to the start of my motorcycle trip. I was able to park my car at an airport ( 1 space) and then take-off on my motorcycle for a multi-destination/multi-day motorcycle trip.
2-The motorcycle specific trailers for uhauls in my area are limited and not always available..
3- A nice box trailer or flat bed would be good for more than one thing, but then your back to the storage space at home due to garage/lot size, community association rules or even some city laws.
4-The hitch situation is another thing i had to deal with..most trailers require more than a class #1 hitch.
5-I like the pick-up and ramp idea, but i do not have a pick-up and i really have no use for one in my area..I would want a truck with a back seat but then the bed would need to be short in order to fit in the garage but then the bike would not fit..and leaving it outside would not be an option.
* Again this is not the best trailer, it is ABSOLUTELY not the least expensive and there are other options..This thing is about $1,800 with the condor chock, boards and a spare tire..Again this NOT the least expensive option..I just put the information out because it was so difficult for me to get user information instead of sales talk...If someone has no space issues.. both at home and at their destination, no community/town rules regarding trailer storage and also has a vehicle that can pull a boxed trailer or flatbed then that would be the way to go and for less money..The rental of a uhaul trailer would be good also if they had one, if it was available when you needed it and if you had were to store it at the destination.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,081
Likes: 1,127
From:
Used the trailer in a bag again for an 1,800 mile round trip.
Same idea again of pulling trailer, disassemble, placed in trunk of car and then parked car at an airport long term lot.
Returned after 5 days of motorcycle riding (stayed someplace different each night), assembled, loaded and took off.
Road about 900+ motorcycle miles and had time to make tourist stops, take a boat ride, a little hiking, take pictures and have meals.
Basically relaxed riding from 10am to about 6pm.
Plenty of Blue ridge Parkway, Maggie Valley, Wheels Through Time, The Rattler, Hot Springs, linville falls, Linville viaduct, Little Switzerland, The Snake, Back Bone Rock , Grayson Highlands park (hike to see pony's), Mount Airy for a squad car tour and pork chop sandwich, Chimney Rock, Lake Lure boat trip and some cool waterfalls/over looks mixed into the mix.
Kinda cool to set-up a route that does not repeat while riding on the bike.
Note: throw away clothes makes packing easier.
I changed the rear lights to the Harbor freight LED set-up before this trip for about $30 since i think they are much brighter.
No issues other than the battery on the bike was sick the very last day as i was loading it on the trailer..perfect timing since all i did was jump it with the car off.. changed battery as soon as i got home.
Since all i needed was one space at the airport it was i believe $40 for the parking.
If someone has a larger trailer they can probably do something similar with a secure storage type location.
Same idea again of pulling trailer, disassemble, placed in trunk of car and then parked car at an airport long term lot.
Returned after 5 days of motorcycle riding (stayed someplace different each night), assembled, loaded and took off.
Road about 900+ motorcycle miles and had time to make tourist stops, take a boat ride, a little hiking, take pictures and have meals.
Basically relaxed riding from 10am to about 6pm.
Plenty of Blue ridge Parkway, Maggie Valley, Wheels Through Time, The Rattler, Hot Springs, linville falls, Linville viaduct, Little Switzerland, The Snake, Back Bone Rock , Grayson Highlands park (hike to see pony's), Mount Airy for a squad car tour and pork chop sandwich, Chimney Rock, Lake Lure boat trip and some cool waterfalls/over looks mixed into the mix.
Kinda cool to set-up a route that does not repeat while riding on the bike.
Note: throw away clothes makes packing easier.
I changed the rear lights to the Harbor freight LED set-up before this trip for about $30 since i think they are much brighter.
No issues other than the battery on the bike was sick the very last day as i was loading it on the trailer..perfect timing since all i did was jump it with the car off.. changed battery as soon as i got home.
Since all i needed was one space at the airport it was i believe $40 for the parking.
If someone has a larger trailer they can probably do something similar with a secure storage type location.
Novice
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: tennessee
I have the Trailer In a Bag (TIB) and love it for the convenience.
I use it to make economical trips when I travel alone. I have a f250, and f350 diesel along with an assortment of trailers, open and enclosed at my disposal. Large very close families are great!
But as others have said, you can pull the TIB with just about anything with a motor.
I can go to a bike event carry my popup tent, HF 2cycle generator, fan,cooler, chairs and the bike with my Altima getting 20-25 mpg. I can take the bike on ANY family trip with very little extra cost. Then we have 2 vehicles when we arrive. I used it once to take my car to the shop, put the trailer in the trunk and rode the bike to work on time. Takes about 30-40 minutes to put together and load the bike, less to take it apart.
I got the TIB from a co-worker that pulled his road-king TN-FL-TN a couple times a year for a few years. He did have one flat tire right before I bought it, otherwise
I have not heard of a single failure with the TIB. It's been a great trailer for me. Some people who know nothing about the trailer are bashing it, ask people who use them if you want facts instead of opinions.
A couple of buddies have borrowed my TIB to use with the chase trucks on M/C trips.
They never needed it, but it was in the bed of the truck, just in case. The ladies did not have to tow a trailer. Try that with any other trailer!
It's a very nice tool. Only you can decide if its the tool for you!
A good used TIB can be had for $400-500 if you shop.
takes
I use it to make economical trips when I travel alone. I have a f250, and f350 diesel along with an assortment of trailers, open and enclosed at my disposal. Large very close families are great!
But as others have said, you can pull the TIB with just about anything with a motor.
I can go to a bike event carry my popup tent, HF 2cycle generator, fan,cooler, chairs and the bike with my Altima getting 20-25 mpg. I can take the bike on ANY family trip with very little extra cost. Then we have 2 vehicles when we arrive. I used it once to take my car to the shop, put the trailer in the trunk and rode the bike to work on time. Takes about 30-40 minutes to put together and load the bike, less to take it apart.
I got the TIB from a co-worker that pulled his road-king TN-FL-TN a couple times a year for a few years. He did have one flat tire right before I bought it, otherwise
I have not heard of a single failure with the TIB. It's been a great trailer for me. Some people who know nothing about the trailer are bashing it, ask people who use them if you want facts instead of opinions.
A couple of buddies have borrowed my TIB to use with the chase trucks on M/C trips.
They never needed it, but it was in the bed of the truck, just in case. The ladies did not have to tow a trailer. Try that with any other trailer!
It's a very nice tool. Only you can decide if its the tool for you!
A good used TIB can be had for $400-500 if you shop.
takes