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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #11  
lipster's Avatar
lipster
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As I stated, YMMV. I had a Stage one and the reflash done to the ECM.
I do agree that the heat was less.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 01:24 PM
  #12  
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Subscribe, debating on this myself.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 01:31 PM
  #13  
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lipster
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Jeff, The chart you posted appears to be the after. Do you have the before?
One line is hp, the other is ft/lbs of torque.
Torque (thick line) peaks at about 3500rpm on your bike now, hp (thin line) peaks around 5000 rpm.

Can't tell where either hp or torque peaked prior.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 01:31 PM
  #14  
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mkguitar
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Originally Posted by jeff.georgalas
I keep hearing this "loss of low-end torque". This is complete horseshit if you do a complete stage 1.
We are talking "pipe vs pipe", not "stock vs stage 1"

With a crossover pipe connecting multiple cylinders, the pulse of exhaust exiting the pipe creates a low pressure zone behind it

- as the other cylinder's intake valve opens - and while the exhaust valve is still open ( this is the "overlap" which the cam determines) this low pressure will cause the intake charge to come into the cylinder faster than it would with just the suck caused by the descending piston.


This can give a more than 100% cylinder fill


free power


This effect is called "scavenging", smart people who are engineers have written all kinds of stuff about it.

this is why exhaust tract length, diameter, restriction and connection to other cylinders are so important--- ( and you'll see this if you crawl under your v6 or v8 car)

---as is intake runner configuration.

The most difficult aspect of designing a 4 stroke motor is that we expect great results at different rpm ranges. IF a motor can be used so that it only has to run at a determined rpm, it can be designed to be much more efficient ( such as the charging motor in the chevy volt)

the concern with a 900 pound bike is getting the darn thing to move from a stop, which takes torque.
having a power peak at 6000 rpm is pretty much useless if it takes away from power at 2500 rpm ( 6000 to 8000 rpm is where drag pipes produce their best power)


------ and this'll be all the fun of an "oil thread".


Regarding cams:
the cam timing, overlap, duration, ramp etc. controls EVERYTHING- and can in itself determine torque/HP range and peaks-
stroke, bore, intake, exhaust, ignition timing and fuel delivery must all be part of a system- determined by weight of vehicle, gearing, rider expectations etc.-

You CANNOT compare pipes configuration if the cams are not the same.

Comparisons can only be made when only 1 part of the system ( in this case exhaust) is changed.



mike
 

Last edited by mkguitar; Aug 4, 2011 at 02:37 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 02:04 PM
  #15  
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I know everyone says you lose bottom end with TD's and I understand the reasons why (scavenging etc). But this is in comparison to a 2-1, TD's against stock pipes will perform well.

See the attached pics of my 08 RKC. The first shows the lower curve for it standard except V&H Dresser Duals with Jackpots plus a/c and Woods TW6-6. This is using the canned PC-V map from Fuel Moto. The curve above it is the effect of a good dyno tune - my point is that the dip in the curve low down almost disappears. The difference that a good tune can make is blindingly clear and is absolutely backed up with the feel of the bike on the road. The second pic shows the effect of adding a Fuel Moto 107/10.25 kit to the mix. All runs done on the same dyno.

So my conclusion is that although TD's wont ever be as good as a decent 2-1 the dip everyone goes on about can be tuned out largely.
 
Attached Thumbnails True Duals-20110414-bunty-bhp-and-torque-1.jpg   True Duals-20110802084019037.jpg  

Last edited by fxdxrider; Aug 4, 2011 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 02:24 PM
  #16  
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Hoblick
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i had true duals on my 07 SG, i lost alot of back pressure, i ended up swicthing them out for the S&S power tune duals.. they are 2 into 1 into 2
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 03:26 PM
  #17  
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jeff.georgalas
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Originally Posted by lipster
Jeff, The chart you posted appears to be the after. Do you have the before?
One line is hp, the other is ft/lbs of torque.
Torque (thick line) peaks at about 3500rpm on your bike now, hp (thin line) peaks around 5000 rpm.

Can't tell where either hp or torque peaked prior.
I don't have a chart with true stock numbers as I didn't have one done at that time. I know this is not an "apples to apples" comparison of strictly stock exhaust vs. true duals, so it's not completely fair. My point was to show (or show the lack of) where true duals are hurting low-end torque. If this were a fair comparison, I would be able to show two dyno runs, one with strictly factory exhaust vs. one with only true duals, and I don't have that, so I apologize. I'm just trying to show that I don't feel that I'm giving anything up, or "leaving much if anything on the table" with a true dual exhaust. And my dyno isn't the most scientific, or even accurate example to support my statement/belief, but it it does show a nice, smooth tq and hp curve, with no typical "second gear dip" as you often see on true dual dyno charts. Not all true duals are created equal, and neither are dyno-tuners. This being said, I don't contest that a good 2 into 1 exhaust will probably give you more low-end torque, but I still believe that almost any aftermarket exhaust is probably better than factory performance wise.

To the OP, I apologize as I didn't want to change your subject. But I do believe I'm still correct in saying that any strictly exhaust change you make will have no bearing on performance +/-.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 03:28 PM
  #18  
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To mkguitar, I apologize, but honestly a lot of what you said went over my head! But in the dyno chart I have shown, the cams were the same. The dyno run had been done prior to the cam change.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #19  
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Guitar4Him
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True duals do sound better and they are definitely cooler that the stock exhaust (especially if it has cats). My gut feeling is that most folks won't notice the difference in torque between TD's and a 2-into-1. Our "butt dynos" often tell us stuff that we WANT to believe. If you "have" to have every last bit of HP and Torque...get a 2-into-1. Otherwise, get what you like and ride that sucker.

I have Reinhart TD's on mine and it runs great. If I'm losing anywhere, I don't notice it. And...it sure sounds good...especially sitting at a stoplight. Gas mileage is great and it will definitely go faster than I need to go.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #20  
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coolerman69
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If your doing TDs purely for sound and not performance I recommend Rineharts. I say this due to experience with them. The butt dyno will not notice the little bit of bottom end torque your gonna loose. I have friends that have used all different types of duals but it seems the Rineharts perform better on a stock bike with stock A/C. I think its due to the stepped head pipe design which helps retain back pressure and helps prevent reversion.
On my bike stock headpipes with SE slip ons = 72.74hp and 84.95 Tq. stock headpipes with SE slip ons and big air kit = 80.22hp and 90.34Tq Add Rinehart TDs and it goes to 82hp and 94tq. All with 203 cams and SERT. If your worried about Killing your performance and hating your ride after installing TDs ...............DON't! You'll love them.
 
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