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I changed the Shock and fork oil in my 08' FLHX.

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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #1  
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Default I changed the Shock and fork oil in my 08' FLHX.

After today's test drive...this mod should of taken place the day I bought the bike. Bike rides Sooooo much better. The forks don't have that wimpy hunting around feel on the road...they actually track the road now. I'm 180# and in my research, I seen guys my build adding these fluid weights. They work. I added 10.8oz of Belray 15w fork oil to each leg. The shock I added 9oz of Belray 7w fork oil to each. For oil, think motocross bikes not HD shops... The rear shock I now have less air added ( I am at 14# where before I was at 22#. I even have 1" shock lowering brackets) for a smooth ride-- jury still out if I end up buying the Ricors, however for now it's at least tolerable. A major improvement over what it was.

To do this mod you should have a bike jack.... If you have a bike you should have a bike jack, just sayin'

Starting with the rear shocks.......Remove rear shock and drain the oil...mine had about 8oz in each. Remove the air valve and thread in a barbed fitting, add a 3' piece of clear 5/16 hose to the fitting. I then installed the shock in my press to compress. after about 4-5 cycles, it was empty.





I bought these syringes for $3 from tractor supply to add the oil into the 5/16 hose. The syringe is smaller than the hose to act more like a drip system to add the oil back into the shock....it takes a while so plan on going slow....you have to burp the air from the shock as you add oil. Place the shock into a vise to hold it as you add the oil.



Next end was the forks... Remove the ign lock , search you tube for the how too...in short place the fork to the left and the switch in the lock position, insert the key and turn it counter clockwise while pushing the detent pin on the bottom of the lock. Then remove the lock. I keep the key in the lock and dont F with the tumblers, lay it aside. I then insert a screw driver into the lock chamber and gently twist clockwise ONE click. Now your forks are unlocked.



Remove the silver nut, cage and plastic spacer. Gently pull up and remove the face plate for the locking directions. Now remove the two screws holding on the inner lower dash.



Now remove the lower dash to expose the fork top legs. Using the 36mm wrench from your bikes factory tool kit place the wrench on the nut a top of the fork leg ( actually need a 35mm ,,, but these are not much more than snug. I tapped the wrench end and the nut spun off. I reused the rubber washer as I didn't see that it's a wearable part. One of my fork caps I hardly needed to apply pressure to remove ---the other I gently tapped with the dead shot.



Remove the lower fork drain screws. I used a hammer impact and one heavy tap they were free.



Drain the nasty smelly oil----this stuff is almost as bad as 90w gear lube for odor. Gently unthread the screw and pay attention to the small brass washer.

.

To refill, tighten lower fork screws by hand, DON'T be Hercules on these screws. Place a clear hose over a small funnel..... I used a 1/2". S L O W L Y pour 6 oz of oil into the legs via the top bolt holes. Insert the bolt and hand tighten. Lower from the jack and pump the forks by holding the front brake and rocking the bike fore and aft. Install on jack again, remove bolt and add remaining 4.8 oz of fork oil. Orrrrr, add the 6 oz of oil and wait 15 minutes and then add the remaining 4.8 oz. Adding the oil to fast, the fork cartridge emulators wont drain the oil to the lower tube.....if it burps out the top, you get to start over and drain the leg to get the correct amount of oil in each leg. You can do one leg at a time or add 6oz and 6 oz in each leg. Cap, pump up, and add remaining 4.8 oz to each.





Gently tighten the fork caps ( bolt), re install lower dash facia. Turn fork to left, insert screw driver into lock chamber and gently turn counter clockwise to lock. Looking into the chamber you can see the "slots" line up. Insert the lock assembly, unlock forks and your ready to test ride.
 

Last edited by timberland; Aug 7, 2011 at 01:34 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 03:31 PM
  #2  
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Thanks for taking the time and the pictures for this project!
 
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 05:48 PM
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thanx for this..............good instructions............
 
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 11:07 PM
  #4  
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I'm glad you posted this step by step illustration. I want to do this to my forks. I'm tired of them misbehaving.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 11:37 PM
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thanks great instructions.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 02:57 AM
  #6  
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From: eastern oklahoma
Default

also guys, don't buy the orange funnel that harley sells for 7 or 8 bucks. they look just like the blue one in timberland's picture, but you can get the same funnel at walmart for under a buck. i must have half dozen of them out in the shop. by the way, thanks for the great write up. next time i get that far into the top of the forks i'm going to see if i can't drill and tap a hole for a pipe plug so i don't have to go through a lot of monkey motion to change fork oil.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 03:54 AM
  #7  
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Great post! Thank you!
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 06:27 AM
  #8  
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Default Tin Foil

When I did mine, I took some tin foil and covered the brake disc so no chance of oil getting on disk and rolling into brake pads. Didn't know the rear shocks had oil in them. Thanks
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #9  
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Bookmark ,Good post thanks
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:27 AM
  #10  
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Just curious, but for getting oil in and out of the rear shocks, wouldn't a mity-vac work?

Also, on the fronts...seems it can be done using just the fork-oil drain bolts at the bottom of the sliders?

nice job, though. well-explained and illustrated!
 
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