Clutch Problem Help!
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Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 511
Likes: 2
From: Russiaville, In
Clutch Problem Help!
ok i have a 11 road glide custom.. i was doing my 6k service i adjusted the clutch per service manual.it felt great after following the book procedure... for a couple short runs( less than 20 miles ).. well i got out on the road last night and rode about an hour (60 miles) and when i got into trafic my clutch was def slipping bad in first, second and somewhat in third like if i riped the throttle i could smell clutch.. im at a loss? where have i made a bad adjustment?
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,128
Likes: 27
From: florida swamp
I'm thinking your cable is too tight and the clutch isn't fully engaging.
If you correctly followed the procedure to adjust the clutch then you might first try loosening your clutch cable some and giving it a couple pulls and then readjust the cable. Be sure to give the cable cover about 1/8 inch of freeplay at the lever. The lever should have a little freeplay in it when fully released.
I say this because I just adjusted my clutch and the clutch didn't start to engage until I released the lever quite a ways. So I readjusted the cable and allowed a bit more freeplay and everything now works fine.
If you correctly followed the procedure to adjust the clutch then you might first try loosening your clutch cable some and giving it a couple pulls and then readjust the cable. Be sure to give the cable cover about 1/8 inch of freeplay at the lever. The lever should have a little freeplay in it when fully released.
I say this because I just adjusted my clutch and the clutch didn't start to engage until I released the lever quite a ways. So I readjusted the cable and allowed a bit more freeplay and everything now works fine.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 511
Likes: 2
From: Russiaville, In
well after reading more and more today i was worried that maybe i had the rod to far in.. i pulled the derby off again and the jam nut was tight.. so i repeated the process again.
..i just dont follow in the manual where it tells you to squeze the hand lever 3 times to seat it..im backing the cable adjuster down to full compress and there is so much slack the handle will pull back to the grip with no resistance so how is it seating if its not pulling on anything ?
..i just dont follow in the manual where it tells you to squeze the hand lever 3 times to seat it..im backing the cable adjuster down to full compress and there is so much slack the handle will pull back to the grip with no resistance so how is it seating if its not pulling on anything ?
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 467
Likes: 46
From: North Texas
Clutch Adjustment The Easy Way
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go .
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting. Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 offset box end wrench. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the box end of the wrench.
You can also see "clutch adjustment by the book" below
Clutch Adjustment Technique By The Book
Let's go over the basics of clutch adjustment on late motorcycle models.
Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out.
Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.
Remove the derby cover and set aside.
Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.
Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.
Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.
Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.
Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.
Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.
Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.
Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.
A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch.
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go .
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting. Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 offset box end wrench. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the box end of the wrench.
You can also see "clutch adjustment by the book" below
Clutch Adjustment Technique By The Book
Let's go over the basics of clutch adjustment on late motorcycle models.
Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out.
Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.
Remove the derby cover and set aside.
Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.
Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.
Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.
Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.
Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.
Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.
Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.
Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.
A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,128
Likes: 27
From: florida swamp
well after reading more and more today i was worried that maybe i had the rod to far in.. i pulled the derby off again and the jam nut was tight.. so i repeated the process again.
..i just dont follow in the manual where it tells you to squeze the hand lever 3 times to seat it..im backing the cable adjuster down to full compress and there is so much slack the handle will pull back to the grip with no resistance so how is it seating if its not pulling on anything ?
..i just dont follow in the manual where it tells you to squeze the hand lever 3 times to seat it..im backing the cable adjuster down to full compress and there is so much slack the handle will pull back to the grip with no resistance so how is it seating if its not pulling on anything ?
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 511
Likes: 2
From: Russiaville, In
yep red both of those in the diy section when i searched.. couldnt find anyone that had slipping problems once it got hot...
Clutch Adjustment The Easy Way
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go .
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting. Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 offset box end wrench. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the box end of the wrench.
You can also see "clutch adjustment by the book" below
Clutch Adjustment Technique By The Book
Let's go over the basics of clutch adjustment on late motorcycle models.
Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out.
Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.
Remove the derby cover and set aside.
Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.
Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.
Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.
Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.
Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.
Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.
Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.
Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.
A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch.
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go .
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting. Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 offset box end wrench. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the box end of the wrench.
You can also see "clutch adjustment by the book" below
Clutch Adjustment Technique By The Book
Let's go over the basics of clutch adjustment on late motorcycle models.
Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out.
Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.
Remove the derby cover and set aside.
Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.
Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.
Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.
Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.
Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.
Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.
Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.
Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.
A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch.
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Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 997
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From: Channahon, IL.
and was the bike cold? When setting the ball and ramp you wont feel anything until right at the grip. If you leave the derby cover off until you are completely finished you will be able to see everything that's going on in there when you pull the clutch lever. When setting the b/r you will see it move just slightly, not enough to disengage clutch. After you have adjusted the cable pull the lever again and watch the clutch basket. When you release the lever make sure the plates have set back before the lever reaches the end of its travel.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 511
Likes: 2
From: Russiaville, In
yes i sure did...ok that last ph makes sense..ill give that a wirl..do you move the cable adjuster enough to be able to set it...then tighten it up more once the rod is set
and was the bike cold?
When setting the ball and ramp you wont feel anything until right at the grip. If you leave the derby cover off until you are completely finished you will be able to see everything that's going on in there when you pull the clutch lever. When setting the b/r you will see it move just slightly, not enough to disengage clutch. After you have adjusted the cable pull the lever again and watch the clutch basket. When you release the lever make sure the plates have set back before the lever reaches the end of its travel.
and was the bike cold? When setting the ball and ramp you wont feel anything until right at the grip. If you leave the derby cover off until you are completely finished you will be able to see everything that's going on in there when you pull the clutch lever. When setting the b/r you will see it move just slightly, not enough to disengage clutch. After you have adjusted the cable pull the lever again and watch the clutch basket. When you release the lever make sure the plates have set back before the lever reaches the end of its travel.