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The axle could still be straight. There is a lot of play in the cam where it fits on the axle, it can rorate away from the stop when it is being tightened. It does not automatically make the axle slide back out of alignment. With that being said, the cam should be against the stop as a back-up (safety) device. If you put never sieze on the back of the cone nut, it will not bite into the cam and move it.
Look at his picture, their's no way there's that much slop in the cam on the axle. I asked a HD tech why they didn't have a better setup for belt tightening. He said that's what HD had to offer! He did give a good tip. Rotate the axle counter clockwise and push it forward with plenty of slack in belt. tighten the nut until you have good resistance turning it with a 36mm wrench. slowly turn clockwise until your belt is adjusted. Take a small c-clamp and place it from the swingarm frame and catch the bottom of the cam to hold it while you torque the nut. I tried it and it works fine for me.
Look at his picture, their's no way there's that much slop in the cam on the axle. I asked a HD tech why they didn't have a better setup for belt tightening. He said that's what HD had to offer! He did give a good tip. Rotate the axle counter clockwise and push it forward with plenty of slack in belt. tighten the nut until you have good resistance turning it with a 36mm wrench. slowly turn clockwise until your belt is adjusted. Take a small c-clamp and place it from the swingarm frame and catch the bottom of the cam to hold it while you torque the nut. I tried it and it works fine for me.
You may not want to believe it, but there is that much slop in the cam (at least on the one that is on my bike).
With the clearance between the washer and axle shaft flats,sometimes that washer will move when tightened.
There was thread about this on the V-Twin forum recently.
I just replaced my rear tire last weekend and ended up with exactly what is shown in the picture. Here's what you need to do.
1. Loosen the cone nut enough to adjust your belt to whatever spec you use.
2. Make sure both cam washers are against the frame nub. If the right side is off, as in your picture, you need to push the tire forward until it is making contact with the nub.
3. Put a wrench on the left side (welded) 35MM nut so that when you torque the cone nut to the 100 ft# spec the belt does not lose its adjustment.
As stated you want a little anti-seize on the axle shaft and the contact face of the cone nut. That should do it. You MUST make contact with the cam washers to the nubs on both sides of the frame to ensure your axle is perpendicular to the swing arm frame.
It would be simple enough to make a spacer to takeup the slop of the right side cam washer. I would still measure from the center of the axle to the swingarm shaft though!
It would be simple enough to make a spacer to takeup the slop of the right side cam washer. I would still measure from the center of the axle to the swingarm shaft though!
What?.....................That would completely negate the function of the entire mechanism. And in fact it would guarantee that the axle would be mis-aligned. The whole purpose of the cam washer, on the axle, keyed to the axle is to guarantee that when the cam washers (washers as in both of them) are up against the nubs on the swingarm frame (that's nubs as in both of them)..........then...............your wheel is in alignment.
The nut should be up against the frame stop before you start adjusting. Adjust by turning the nut and make sure it stays up against the stop, then slightly back off. Keeping it up against the stop. If it is not up against the stop it is not adjusted properly and will move over time on matter what torque you put on it.
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