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I can not take a pic for you as my bike is in the shop, but I can tell you that is the reason why it failed for the second time, but that does not explain the first belt failing in so little time unless the same thing happened to it.
Measure from the center of your axle to the swingarm shaft. I bet you are way out of alignment. Loosen the axle nut on the right side until you can move it in to loosen the belt but keep the cam washer's against the frame. with the belt loose, rotate the axle by the welded nut on the left clockwise until your belt is properly tightened. you should be against the stops with both cam washer's. recheck by measuring as above.
Looking at your photo, it looks like you didn't have the nut snug enough when you tightened the belt. That let the right side slide back as your belt tightened. When you get everything forward, belt loose, cam washer's against the frame, snug the axle nut so you have to turn it with a wrench. That won't let the right side move back as the left side get's tight.
The drive belt adjustment is, for me, a finicky one. I tried different settings as stated in the latest service bulletin of 3/8" to 9/16". The tension varies somewhat depending upon temperature. I made sure that the belt at room temperature was set at 7/16". The cam lobes were set identical on both sides and making full contact against the swing arm nubs. I had to secure the left side weld nut with a large 1 & 7/16" box end wrench with a cable/rope setup to the frame/saddlebag mounts. I torqued to about 120 lbs. then backed off to around 110 to rotate the right cam lobe up against the nub. The tension was right on at 7/16". I then applied some torque-stripe paint to ensure that there was no movement. After a couple of hours of riding, the tension tightened up to 3/8" when hot and slackened to about 9/16" when cold. I had previously adjusted it some three times before some frustration set in. That is when I set for the middle, locked everything down and the took several readings at different temperatures. I am satisfied that there isn't much more that I can do. It was reported on another thread that the cam lobe on the right side has some slack in it as the tolerances aren't that close on the axle flats.
The axle could still be straight. There is a lot of play in the cam where it fits on the axle, it can rorate away from the stop when it is being tightened. It does not automatically make the axle slide back out of alignment. With that being said, the cam should be against the stop as a back-up (safety) device. If you put never sieze on the back of the cone nut, it will not bite into the cam and move it.
I don't no much about the newer bikes. I take mine to the dealership. Back in the "DAY" when I did my own work on my FXRs & FatBoys IMO it was much easier.
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