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'08 RG here no issues I suspect without EPA California emissions all have more to do than TBW. Jets have TBW and they go faster then fast, EFI, ECU, TBW, ABS etc... get blamed because technology is misunderstood. Harleys have never been more reliable now than they have ever been IMHO
Last edited by K00LJerk; Dec 15, 2011 at 02:38 PM.
I believe you have a misunderstanding of the TTS, so I'm going to throw this out there just in case.
The TTS is a programmer, is does not get "installed" you connect it to the ECM and re-program the ECM, then you remove the TTS and put it away. It does not stay connected like some other modules.
That is the first time I have read such a clear description of the TTS and how it works.
When I pull the plug from the wall outlet on my Christmas tree, ALL the lights go out at the same time....not the first one, then the second one, then the....etc.
This time of year, that's not the trick. The trick is to get them all to go ON when you plug them in! (I lucked out this year, though!)
I bought my 2008 FLHRC used and have no issues with the throttle buy wire . seems the same as my sportster and shovel . But i have no clue if the performace upgrades done buy the previous owner changed it at all.
I have found firsthand that the response (or lack of) on the DBW bikes is just as much or much more related to the factory tuning itself rather than the DBW system itself. It is combination of lean mixture, excessive accelleration enrichment, and less than optimum ignition timing in the stock calibration all combined together. The ECM also uses various strategies as forms of torque management to help with driveline lash and off idle low RPM abruptness. When the fuel tables and igntion timing are properly tuned throttle response is generally very acceptable even with the base throttle table, however there are several products as noted earler such as Dynojet Power Vision, SE Pro Race Tuner, and TTS that allow you to adjust the throttle blade (Power Vision even gives you 2 tables to adjust this with). I have hundreds of logs of the throttle blade strategies on drive by wire bikes and have adjusted the throttle tables all over the place monitoring the results using the factory and aftermarket calibration (for reference most aftermarket calibrations actually use the same throttle blade base settings as stock) I do agree that the ability to adjust the throttle blade tables is very helpful when needed and in some application have made very measureable results, however if you have any of these products before making any big adjustments to the throttle tables I recommend doing some data recording and logging MAP, TPS, and Twist Grip position and this will really help understand the strategy. It is also important to unserdtand that because the throttle blade directly affects manifold pressure that changing the throttle blade settings can and will directly affect the other tables in the tune as the Delphi speed density system uses manifold pressure and intake air temp to determine air mass. Hope this info helps........
That info does help, thank you. That explains why I can't detect a lag after my stage 1 even though I've tried to find it several times.
First you need to know if you have the SERT or the SEPST. The SERT looks like the TTS Mastertune, has serial cable ports on both ends of it. The SEPST has a serial cable end on one side and a printer (USB style) prt on the other, it also has a button on it and can either be black or orange. If you have the SERT (which I doubt you do, since it is obsolete and has been replaced with the SEPST and your bike is newer) But if you do, it doesn't have a throttle progresstivity table, but it can, however, be sent in to TTS and can be upgraded to a Mastertuner for $100, then it would give you the T.P. table. If you have the otehr tuner (SEPST) which I suspect you do, it will have the T.P. table and can be adjusted. Hope this helps.
So would you suggest to avoid a hefty tune fee, just get the throttle pak by V&H to open the plate?
GREAT info btw. The people that replied with a laughing smiley, not so much.. Thanks for the camaraderie..
Like I said, first you need to know exactly what tuning interface you have, post a pic of it here if you can. Once we know exactly what it is (SERT or SEPST) we can advise you better. If it is the SERT it can be sent of and upgraded to a TTS MAtertune for 100 bucks, and then you could speed up the throttle with it. If it is the SEPST it already has everything you need. All you have to do is have someone open the MAP up in the software and adjust the throttle progresstivity tables and you will be good to go. No need to buy the V&H stuff. It'd just add more hardware to your bike, more hardware means more parts that could fail.
Ok.. Thanks so much.. I just checked and it is a master tune. Now I do remember my tuner saying something about the settings that had to do with the throttle body being set to "1:1" on all possible settings.. Does this mean it is already at most open position?
Originally Posted by harleytuner
Like I said, first you need to know exactly what tuning interface you have, post a pic of it here if you can. Once we know exactly what it is (SERT or SEPST) we can advise you better. If it is the SERT it can be sent of and upgraded to a TTS MAtertune for 100 bucks, and then you could speed up the throttle with it. If it is the SEPST it already has everything you need. All you have to do is have someone open the MAP up in the software and adjust the throttle progresstivity tables and you will be good to go. No need to buy the V&H stuff. It'd just add more hardware to your bike, more hardware means more parts that could fail.
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