torque wrench
) One can go crazy trying to figure out what will work and what they need. When choosing your torque wrenches keep in mind the "premium" ones are built for daily use. If you don't plan on daily use there are a lot of great ones at reasonable prices. One thing to keep in mind, and a general rule of thumb is that most torque wrenches are only accurate from 20% of the maximum to the maximum. For example a 100 ft/lb wrench is accurate (usually +/- 3% clockwise) from 20 ft/lb up to 100 ft/lb. Many of the "premium" wrenches will list there certification on a broader spectrum with a degraded accuracy below 20% and the counter clockwise accuracy (which, buy the way is usually less). I bring this up because this bit of knowledge is a great tool to help you figure what you need when combined with the complete torque specs found in the back of the service manual. Look at what you hope to accomplish and the required specs as a starting point. Many of the specs are given over a range, say from 30-46 in/lb. For the DIYer, this in essence, allows a bit of fudge factor as the tolerance is broader. From there you'll get a good idea of what you'll need. Also keep in mind what size sockets you own and the accessibility, or location on the scoot you'll have to work in. Nothing is worse that having the right socket in 1/4" and realizing your torque wrench is a 3/8". Or not being able to use the wrench because it's to large to fit between frame and bolt.
As for brands, I'm afraid asking is like the old Ford vs Chevy argument...they get the job done, all have pro's and con's, but not a one satisfies everyone. My opinion is (in order of preference):
Snap-on
CDI (now associated with Snap-on)
Cornwell
Matco
Proto
Look for sales, and remember a good "gently used" quality tool can often be purchased for pennies to the dollar, but if you go this route, don't forget to have it re-calibrated before letting it near your scoot!
Don't skimp, but don't break the bank either.
As a parting piece of advise, don't forget to unload the spring (click type) before storing it.
A bit long winded but hope it helps...
Last edited by CrazyBoom; Dec 28, 2011 at 12:22 PM.
My advice is to find someone who uses the same tools, or works where the tool salesmen frequent, even at your local indy or dealer. If they are good friends work out a deal for them to have them tested by the pros, or at least introduce you to the guy who can test them for you. Most are eager (time permitting) to test the calibration, because the money really is made correcting the calibration. I say time permitting because I had one tool guy tell me he didn't have the time to worry about testing/re-calibration because of his need to increase sales volume and the number of appointments he was now required to keep. You don't have to calibrate the "premium" tools as often as long as they are not abused and taken care of.
Remember for the casual user there are plenty of good wrenches that will get the job done. Changing the oil doesn't require the same torque tolerances as rebuilding an engine!
Earlier there was a question as to what specific tools to acquire. I have older Snap-on tools that I used prior to moving on to the operations side of the house so I'll give you the size and ratings. They work for me, but I can't guarantee it isn't overkill for some and not adequate for others...
Snap-on 3/8" drive flex ratchet head 5-75 ft/lb (not as accurate from 5 to 10 ft/lb, but close enough)
Snap-on 3/8" drive fixed ratchet head 40-200 in/lb
Snap-on 1/4" drive fixed ratchet head 10-50 in/lb
Snap-on 1/4" Torqometer driver 192 in/oz-12 in/lb
I own larger 1/2" and 3/8" ft/lb wrenches as well, but the ones listed above are the ones I tend to use most often on the scoot.
Don't succumb to the 'gotta have the best' and blow a months wages on wrenches. I acquired these over time and at one time used them almost daily. In my present job I would never have reason or need to spend this kind of cash for what little work I do on the cages/scoot. With a bit of research and a gift for gab you can get good information and honest opinions from the guys that are still using torque wrenches daily.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
That's why a good tool box has a variety of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive torque wrenches with varying capacities.
I have some with flex heads and some fixed for reaching into tight places. Be careful when using extensions and U-joint adapters as they may throw torque values off in some applications.
I have a mixture of slide bar, dial and clicker wrenches. The clicker type are the easiest to use when working in tight or blind spots when you can't see the dial or slide scale.
A good torque wrench is a precision tool and should be treated like it. Don't drop them and return the clicker to zero before storing. Like many tools you'll get what you pay for. Buy the best you can afford without breaking the bank. A good torque wrench will last a lifetime and then some if taken care of. I have a 3/8 drive Snap-On dial wrench that my dad bought in the early fifties and was handed down that still works great.
I think most people don't use torque wrenches enough. My dad used to say he could feel the torque by feel using hand wrenches in some cases but using a torque wrench eliminates any question. Torque is not just used for proper clamp on a fastener but also to get a uniform clamping pressure on assemblies that have more than one fastener. If the book says to use a torque value then it's always good to use it. Even without a torque value there are general guidelines to use for the size fastener being torqued. http://constructionmisc.tpub.com/TM-...200-13P_22.htm
Even if you're just starting out and building your tool collection, a good selection of quality torque wrenches is a staple of the tool box
That's why a good tool box has a variety of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive torque wrenches with varying capacities.
I have some with flex heads and some fixed for reaching into tight places. Be careful when using extensions and U-joint adapters as they may throw torque values off in some applications.
I have a mixture of slide bar, dial and clicker wrenches. The clicker type are the easiest to use when working in tight or blind spots when you can't see the dial or slide scale.
A good torque wrench is a precision tool and should be treated like it. Don't drop them and return the clicker to zero before storing. Like many tools you'll get what you pay for. Buy the best you can afford without breaking the bank. A good torque wrench will last a lifetime and then some if taken care of. I have a 3/8 drive Snap-On dial wrench that my dad bought in the early fifties and was handed down that still works great.
I think most people don't use torque wrenches enough. My dad used to say he could feel the torque by feel using hand wrenches in some cases but using a torque wrench eliminates any question. Torque is not just used for proper clamp on a fastener but also to get a uniform clamping pressure on assemblies that have more than one fastener. If the book says to use a torque value then it's always good to use it. Even without a torque value there are general guidelines to use for the size fastener being torqued. http://constructionmisc.tpub.com/TM-...200-13P_22.htm
Even if you're just starting out and building your tool collection, a good selection of quality torque wrenches is a staple of the tool box


