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The HF in/lb torque wrench I had was brand new...snapped head off 1st bolt I torqued (yes it was set properly). Tested & it was OK...next bolt snapped as well. Frustrated & went to Sears...bought Craftsman & haven't sheared a bolt yet with it (over 5-years of use). Noticed today Sears has 3/8" in/lb wrench on sale for $49.99 ($30 off)...not too shabby...
Good info, I haves question for you torque wrench gurus. I have not done any of my own engine maintenance on my road king yet, my logic has been while under warranty I will let the dealer do it. I have six months to go and then I will do it all. I have changed out both fenders, bags, pulled the tank, added a fairing and changed the bars. Once everything is back from paint I want to assure myself I have the proper torque values when I reassemble. Sorry lot of lead up to my question. Without having to go with professional tools could I build calibration jig that consist of various size nuts on a piece of flat bar. Have someone install the bolts and torque them with a high dollar wrench then test a lower priced Craftsman, kobalt etc. against the known value?
If you have a Craftsman or Kobalt, just use it. For the work you describe I personally wouldn't even think of a torque wrench. But that's me - if you want to torque everything then by all means do.
As for your idea of a calibration jig, if your wrench turns the nut before it clicks, then your jig's calibration is no longer valid. And if your wrench clicks before turning the nut, then you haven't validated your wrench either, you've only concluded that it is reading something less than the jig. So, your idea may get you in the ballpark, but to call it a calibration or test is a real stretch. This explanation is assuming you're using a click-type wrench, but the principle is the same regardless of the type of wrench. Then there's also "breakaway" torque that needs to be considered. Bottom line - just use the torque wrench you have. If you don't trust its accuracy, have it checked or replace it.
Last edited by 2black1s; Dec 28, 2011 at 09:01 PM.
Anybody here know how they "check" calibration on a torque wrench? I thought the way I checked mine was pretty accurate...so did the 70 year old master mechanic that has been in the business all his life.
I'm wondering how you snap a bolt off if your torque wrench is set right and you know it's accurate????????? Just because it came from HF shouldn't cause that. (Don't get me wrong, I don't call HF tools "quality tools", but they are not completely unreliable.)
Sears/Craftsman torque wrenches were on sale alot through holiday shopping. Unless you're a pro/racing/mech...they're about the most decent for $$$. I bought Kobalt 3/8" ft/lb from Lowe's because of military discount & it's probably equal to Craftsman quality.
Lowes Kobalt tools are junk and not even close to Craftsman quality.
Everything Lowe's sells is sub-standard crap.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Quality torque wrenches often have comfortable grips that force us to rely on their accuracy. I prefer quality tools that have a thin edge because pain and pressure felt by the hand are proportional to the torque/effort applied. If a thread starts to deteriorate it can be felt instantly and repaired at a minor cost.
The 'exceptional' setting on my EG is the tightening of the rear wheel axel: I must add 1/4 of a turn after everything gets in contact to reach the proper value, but the long breaker bar handle is so big that I feel nothing
I was in a similar situation. I did some research and found that CDI torque wrenches are made by Snap On.. So i bought two. One in in/lbs, the other in ft/lbs... The work just like the more expensive Snap On ones. They work great. Here is link to their website.
I was in a similar situation. I did some research and found that CDI torque wrenches are made by Snap On.. So i bought two. One in in/lbs, the other in ft/lbs... The work just like the more expensive Snap On ones. They work great. Here is link to their website.
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