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I have this low speed front wheel wobble on the geezer glide (bike has 7k miles/new tires @ 1k miles ago). Just for the hell of it, I thought I'd put a run-out gage on the front wheel and tire. The wheel was about 7 thousands out yet the tire ran 23 thousands out.
Anyone know how "normal" (or not) these readings are?
I'd say your good. I looked in the manual for a wheel runout spec but couldn't find anything for cast wheels. For a laced wheel the spec allows up to .030 lateral runout.
Your runout isnt crazy. Check your front fork oil levels, neck bearings & swing arm bushings for play! Also look for loose bolts on your tree's.
Hatch.
This may be one of those "dumb questions" people ask once in a while, but would the wheel run out be best measured on the inside where the tire mounts? That seems like it would be the best place to measure.
Your runout isnt crazy. Check your front fork oil levels, neck bearings & swing arm bushings for play! Also look for loose bolts on your tree's.
Hatch.
This may be one of those "dumb questions" people ask once in a while, but would the wheel run out be best measured on the inside where the tire mounts? That seems like it would be the best place to measure.
Not a dumb question at all... And yes, if the tire is not mounted the inside is the best surface to make your lateral runout measurements. But that said, a machined cast wheel is not going to have much variation between the inside and outside so either will give you a pretty good idea of what you have. Now axial runout is another story - for axial runout you almost always have to measure the inside surface.
A TIR of .007 for the rim & .023 for the tire is too small to worry about. The only way to accurately check the rim TIR is to remove the bearings & set the rim up in two center points. The wheel bearings do a a little play in them.
HDs neck bearing adjustment is known to be sloppy from the factory. Definately check this.
Torque check all of the tripple tree & axel nuts, bolts & screws.
Do a check with the dial indicator for the wheel bearings side to side movement.
A TIR of .007 for the rim & .023 for the tire is too small to worry about. The only way to accurately check the rim TIR is to remove the bearings & set the rim up in two center points. The wheel bearings do a a little play in them.
HDs neck bearing adjustment is known to be sloppy from the factory. Definately check this.
Torque check all of the tripple tree & axel nuts, bolts & screws.
Do a check with the dial indicator for the wheel bearings side to side movement.
Well....got to check the front wheel and bearings. All is in spec. Just for the hell of it, decided to check rear shock air. Zero lbs. Not surprising...this sled has been sitting for a little bit.
I'm "sort of" convinced this would contribute to wobble but wanted to to ask you guys. Wadyathink?
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