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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #11  
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I just changed mine and it wasnt bad... having the service manual is a plus... has the torque pattern for the bolts, and step by step instructions all the way down to adjusting the cable when you're ready. It took me approx 2.5 hours total but I could do it again in about 45 minutes.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 08:12 PM
  #12  
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No need to take the guts, ramp and ball I think is what it's called, apart. You can get the end of the cable out and the new one in without doing that. There is enough slack in the cable. I just did mine a week ago.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 08:46 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by chilly1962
No need to take the guts, ramp and ball I think is what it's called, apart. You can get the end of the cable out and the new one in without doing that. There is enough slack in the cable. I just did mine a week ago.
Correct! The only reason I had to remove the ramp, ball bearings, etc was because I was actually changing the clutch release cover due to some scratches in the chrome. Good Point Chilly!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 06:04 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ICIBUY
Correct! The only reason I had to remove the ramp, ball bearings, etc was because I was actually changing the clutch release cover due to some scratches in the chrome. Good Point Chilly!
I probably should brush up on my technical jargon though, it would sound more official.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 06:22 AM
  #15  
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I only removed the lower heat shield, and ground down a allen wrench for access on the bottom bolts. The rest was easy nuff.You can leave the easy pull on but removing it makes it easier to put the cable end in.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jjpish
Just did mine on Saturday when I changed my bars out to 13's. Like others have said it is more to take it apart then to change it. There are some good videos on youtube. You should have no problems. Below is the link to the LA Choppers Prime Apes install that shows all the steps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ik73i5x3jdI


thanks for the video that helped a ton
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 03:19 PM
  #17  
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I'm going to do tackle this this week. I'm a little intimidated, but reading quite a bit on here before i go about it.

Couple guys said you don't need to disassemble the clutch cover, but the video shows them doing it. What up? Also, what is the lube that they put in the cable? They also didn't take the exhaust off, loosened it apparently, but it sounds like taking it off is really the answer...otherwise i see myself jacking up the fasteners on the cover trying to get it off.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 04:53 PM
  #18  
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just bumping to see if there is anyone with a thought.
 
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  #19  
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Don't take off the exhaust, it's not necessary. Find the right size allen key, and cut it down as much as possible so it still gets a solid grip inside the bolt. You can use that to un-do the 2 bottom bolts. Also, I put the wheels on bricks, and let the bike lean way over on the kick stand. Kept me from having to drain the tranny fluid. Very little came out. Finally, I disassembled the ball\ramp assembly simply becasue I had the snap ring pliers to do it, so I figured "why not?"
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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probably depends on exhaust i have long shots had to come off so i inspected cam tensioners and put an easy pull clutch in while its apart. I HATE SCRATCHES!!!!!!!!!!!!! good luck
 
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