problems or paranoid after stage 2
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: El Cajon Ca.
How many ounces? More then 6 or 7 is borderline. Over 8oz. is no good. The excess oil could have been left over in the sump when you did the service. Thats why you still showed the correct amount on the dip stick and yet still had a sumping problem.
Last edited by BLKBAGGER; Mar 15, 2012 at 09:04 PM.
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From: Ohio
Way over 8 ounces
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From: Ohio
Do you or anyone else have any tips to keep it from happening again
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Canton, OH
First of all, glad you discovered the issue and it's an easy fix. That's gotta give you some relief after all that work you did.
I replaced my cams a few months back. I used a generous helping of Lucas assembly lube on everything, including a bit on the o-rings. It's thick and will keep the o-rings in place. You can also feel the cam plate "press" into place when everything is lined up right. Just put the cam plate on flat and straight after you confirm the o-rings are set and you should be fine, now that you know what you're looking for.
I replaced my cams a few months back. I used a generous helping of Lucas assembly lube on everything, including a bit on the o-rings. It's thick and will keep the o-rings in place. You can also feel the cam plate "press" into place when everything is lined up right. Just put the cam plate on flat and straight after you confirm the o-rings are set and you should be fine, now that you know what you're looking for.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Originally Posted by cellison
Before all of the upgrades I too was stead at 32+ psi except at idle. Now it is consistantly low. The only thing that makes me half think it is sumping is the oil pressure issues and sometimes when its cold it feels like the bike struggles past 4500 rpm. That goes away within the first five minutes though.
Way over 8 ounces
I would check the three o-rings you replaced, the two small ones in the cam chest and large one on the oil pump. One of them is likely cut or pinched and is causing that seal point to leak into the sump, or not allowing the oil to scavenge fast enough to keep up with the oil flow.
BTW, I agree with Ocezam that you should take it easy when the engine is cold. I take it to an extreme level and as a rule of thumb wouldn't rev past 3000 until oil is at least 150°. That way I know the engine has been thoroughly heat-soaked and all parts are at operating temperature.
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From: El Cajon Ca.
I have always coated the "O" rings with vasaline to hold them in place but what skjskmata does sounds like it will work too. They need to be lubed up for sure.
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From: Ohio
Well its back together and started but its 3am so for the neighbors sake I'm not going for a real test ride.
I'm about 99% sure the dealer gave me the wrong o-ring for the oil pump the first time. The one I removed was really thin, the new one they gave me today was the same size but about three times as fat.
There was oil EVERYWHERE, it was a mess to say the least. Slippery hands and parts made this take about twice as long as it should have.
I'm about 99% sure the dealer gave me the wrong o-ring for the oil pump the first time. The one I removed was really thin, the new one they gave me today was the same size but about three times as fat.
There was oil EVERYWHERE, it was a mess to say the least. Slippery hands and parts made this take about twice as long as it should have.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Bellefonte PA
If you're talking about the O ring on the scavenge port of the oil pump, it should be a fairly fat one. Same ring used for the upper end of the pushrod covers. Hopefully you have the right one now, but it sucks you had to go through all that.