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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 06:39 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by skully1200
If you're talking about the O ring on the scavenge port of the oil pump, it should be a fairly fat one. Same ring used for the upper end of the pushrod covers. Hopefully you have the right one now, but it sucks you had to go through all that.
That's exactly what I used this time! It sucks I had to essentially do the cam swap again to find it.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 06:48 AM
  #32  
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I just hate it when the expert parts guy gives you the wrong part. That's happened to me a number of times. Now, I make sure I have the part number from the parts catalog and then ask for the part by the part number. Dealer should be paying you $80+/hour for your re-do.

Good luck with the test ride. Certainly sounds like you got it figured out.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 07:35 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by skjskmata
I just hate it when the expert parts guy gives you the wrong part. That's happened to me a number of times. Now, I make sure I have the part number from the parts catalog and then ask for the part by the part number. Dealer should be paying you $80+/hour for your re-do.

Good luck with the test ride. Certainly sounds like you got it figured out.
I have to go to work for a hot minute then hoping to test ride this afternoon. I can't beat up the parts guy too bad, I've got a ton of parts from him and he's been great.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 01:56 PM
  #34  
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Got a short ride in, enough to get it up to temp. Oil pressure is fixed and power is unbelievable now, a lot more power than before.

Everything seems perfect EXCEPT a monster exhaust leak. That's right, I have to wrestle the exhaust again! I'm so fed up with the exhaust I'm ready to pay someone to change the gaskets for me.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 02:08 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by BLKBAGGER
I have always coated the "O" rings with vasaline to hold them in place but what skjskmata does sounds like it will work too. They need to be lubed up for sure.
Same here, chassis grease in my case.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 02:11 PM
  #36  
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Got a short ride in, enough to get it up to temp. Oil pressure is fixed and power is unbelievable now, a lot more power than before.

Everything seems perfect EXCEPT a monster exhaust leak. That's right, I have to wrestle the exhaust again! I'm so fed up with the exhaust I'm ready to pay someone to change the gaskets for me.
Man, you don't mess around when you need to fix something. The dealer should give you some store credit for their friggin' error! Anyway, I'm glad you're running again and I think you'll look favorably on your cam job in the long run. I'm still smiling three years later.

As for the exhaust system, that's probably the hardest part of the job, even worse than going through the rockers. What's aggravating is that it's the last step putting it back together--and it's never, never a scintillating experience. It never wants to come apart, but once apart doesn't want to go back together again.

BTW if your exhaust leak is at the head, use stock gaskets, not the SE type.
 

Last edited by iclick; Mar 16, 2012 at 02:27 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 02:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by skjskmata
I just hate it when the expert parts guy gives you the wrong part. That's happened to me a number of times. Now, I make sure I have the part number from the parts catalog and then ask for the part by the part number. Dealer should be paying you $80+/hour for your re-do.
Amen! I'll sign a petition if it comes my way.

I used a cam-install kit rather than buying parts piecemeal, but always compare the old with the new before installing. In my joy I share with the OP for his upgrade and tenacity, I would have to scold him for not doing this. He gets one lash with a wet strand of leather fringe from a Heritage Softail followed by a virtual beer offered in celebration.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 06:25 PM
  #38  
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Hey 1460. glad you fixed the problem. this is something not everyone would run into. great to have guys to send you down the right road. as far as the exhaust, when trying to put back on you almost have to spread the pipes a little to get them to line up right. what i did was to put the header in a vice, got one of thost long clamps that you can spread by squeezing the handle, turn the clamps around so you are spreading instead of clamping. spread clamp so both are against the pipes at the flanges. heat the rear pipe down by where it connects to the header with a strain on the clamp and carefully spread about 1/4 inch, let cool then try. you may have to do it a couple of times but when its done right it will line up with little effort. a little drawn out but it works.
 
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